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  2. Hi Adrian - if you try you should be able to read a measuring tape to 0.2mm. It's just a matter of focus. cheers edi
  3. Thanks Michael for the clarification, a similar angle sounds more familiar to me. The shape is indeed interesting, many curves available to reach the various points of the foot selectively, sooner or later I will have to try it.
  4. Today
  5. Does anyone here know what steel Pfeil knives are made of?
  6. Yes but this is for cross grain shrinkage. In the saddle, the ebony is long grain and therefore has effectively no movement.
  7. Was Asa better than his brother? were they “the brothers white”?
  8. I did not know that, thank you! I still think he shouldn’t have done anything to it.
  9. Thanks for your interest. Often I will varnish an instrument leaving the gradations about 1mm proud of the final target. I will do the final gradations once the varnish is cured and fit a bass bar. After the instrument is settled for a few weeks I will assess how it plays and maybe take it apart and re work some aspects including the bar. 6 months later I might change the bar again...by that time a conclusion is reached...no more messing about.
  10. aside from the steepness of the bevel, perhaps the steel is simply too soft to hold a proper edge, especially if you have been grinding a lot and perhaps got the blade a little too warm.
  11. Hmm... 2mm thick blade and 2mm wide bevel would be consistent with a 60 degree interior angle, so that's probably it. If I could find my digital caliper I would confirm this, but it makes sense. Measuring tape is hardly the best way to measure the thickness of a knife.
  12. I don’t know, John, but I have several and they take a good edge. Not as good as your knives, but perfectly serviceable....
  13. Are the peril knives M2 steel? If so, that’s a big problem
  14. Adrian - the Pfeil knives are 2mm thick, not 1mm, so I think your calculations are a factor of 2 out.
  15. Hi Davide, My tests on bass bars are only on free vibrating platse. I alsways had pre stress condition on the plate and shaped the bass bar afterward and checked the mode 2 and 5 frequency and shape. I did this with the same plate and five different bass bar. There are many conditions to observe and understand. The pre bending condition and the quality of the bass bar wood. I did this about 20 years ago. On thing is for sure the lenght of the bass bar must be less the location of the inflection point. Were that point arise depend on the plate thickness and the deformation that become produced by the applied string load. It's all about stress conditions. I had hoped some one could say something but I understand stress conditions and how and were they arise is of less interrrest.
  16. I was referring to the shape, not the angle. For angle, I personally make the bevels twice the tool thickness..... around a 25 to 30 degree cutting angle.
  17. I can't imagine how such an open cutting edge angle could be efficient, but obviously I'm not going to doubt it and I believe you on the word, I simply never tried someting similar. I could imagine it with a scraping action, not for the thin cuts needed for the feet of the bridge. What should be the correct (approximate) angle for a similar bridge feet knife?
  18. Yes, there is not much to be invented with bassbars, you can always find someone who has done something similar before you, like almost all things in violin making, if you search hard enough
  19. Well, answering the OP's question, this violin has virtually nothing to do with Guarneri, but is a German cottage-industry ("factory") violin from the early 20th century. It looks like it all could be made playable without too much investment. Sometimes these sound pretty good, sometimes not. It is not worth thousands, but could be a solid starter violin for someone. I wonder what an old five-string banjo bridge was doing in the case... Anyway, take it to a luthier and get it set up.
  20. Sadly, the Moennig check-up paper is the most interesting part of the lot.
  21. A young woman who had graduated from the Krenov school came to the shop last year. We were talking about such things(a wing nut and a screw type jigs) and she told me that she had found 2 sorts of people in her group of professional woodworking students: Those who like to make things and those who like to make jigs...
  22. For the shape of the knife I've been going for something resembling the profile on one of Michael Darnton's bridge knives (see first picture). His knife is 18mm rather than 12mm and the angle of the picture might be throwing me off, but I don't think it's that far off. The flatter section of the edge is so the knife can serve double duty for anything that might benefit from a flatter edge, though it's longer than I wanted as I wasn't watching the length of it too closely at first. The second picture shows what the knife looks like once placed inside its holder/handle. On "rolling the edge," I suspect you're right, but I'm finding this very difficult to control. I can't catch myself doing it while I'm sharpening, but I must be doing it or the edge would not look rounded. The consensus appears to be that 30 degrees on each side (60 inclusive) is too steep, so that's one of the first things I'm going to change. I had read here on Maestronet that a 30 degree bevel was a good target to aim for, but I realize now they must have meant 30 degrees total, so 15 degrees on each side. The strange thing is the width of the bevel has come out twice the thickness of the blade (2mm vs 1mm), which what you'd get with a 15 degree bevel each side -- even though I've been comparing against a 30 degree angle guide. I guess I'm not holding it right, in spite of my efforts. Thank you all for your advice.
  23. Here's how to do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4uotjB6XdRw
  24. Being of the hack admiration persuasion, I'd probably get more of a kick from tying little safety lanyards (idiot strings) to each weight.
  25. This is a typical Ed Campbell bass bar shape, including the flat upper and lower block areas. I don't do either anymore, maybe I should revisit?
  26. Hi Don - no sweat. Just drill a dowel+clearance sized hole up from the bottom and the weights become "safe". cheers edi
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