IBEX Finger planes vs the cheap brass ones I use

[Will Turner]

I appreciate all the great opinions I receive as I'm progressing in my learning.

I've been using a series of super cheap brass finger planes (flat and round) that I purchased from China a while back.    I frequently have to resharpen them, so I believe the steel must be of a lower quality.

I've been considering purchasing a series of IBEX finger planes.   Any of you use those and find them to be of great value?   Do the blades hold their sharpness longer, especially on the maple?

Each plane costs more than the entire cheap brass set I've been using, so I'm looking for more information before I invest.

[Violadamore]

I personally use a mix of vintage, Japanese, and modern brand-name tools that I've amassed over my lifetime.  All of the ones I've kept will hold a honed-past-razor edge for considerable periods while working.  For fine work, I tend to prefer Japanese hand-forged laminated steel to the fancier European and American special alloys, but I still have several IBEX finger planes that I started out with, and have no doubt that they are far better than what you are using.

IMHO, if you're going to do violin work seriously, absolutely avoid cheap Chinese and Indian cutting and carving tools. The steel is invariably inferior.  

[Josep Pampidó]

I have not experience but what about upgrading the blades only?

[lorenzo fossati]

I use a few Ibex fingerplanes and I confirm the excellent steel quality, I also like the type of locking gear for the blade, far more than other similar planes, in this case price has a reason to be, in my opinion

[Bodacious Cowboy]

9 hours ago, Violadamore said:

I personally use a mix of vintage, Japanese, and modern brand-name tools that I've amassed over my lifetime.  All of the ones I've kept will hold a honed-past-razor edge for considerable periods while working.  For fine work, I tend to prefer Japanese hand-forged laminated steel to the fancier European and American special alloys, but I still have several IBEX finger planes that I started out with, and have no doubt that they are far better than what you are using.

IMHO, if you're going to do violin work seriously, absolutely avoid cheap Chinese and Indian cutting and carving tools. The steel is invariably inferior.  

Have to say that I have some superb Chinese knives and plane blades. 

[MikeC]

I have two Ibex planes,  one is 12mm blade the other is 8mm blade.  Good steel.  I also have the cheap Chinese planes from Amazon.  They are useable but not the quality of Ibex.   

There is one issue that I had with the larger Ibex plane.  The blade did not have enough adjustment side to side. the sharp edge of the blade was not even with the sole of the plane, one corner sticking out more than the other. So it would dig into the wood slightly deeper on one side than the other.   I had to file away some of the brass where the side of the blade makes contact.  

[Violadamore]

4 hours ago, Bodacious Cowboy said:

Have to say that I have some superb Chinese knives and plane blades. 

Yup, I have some operationally excellent Chinese katana blades that I use for routine practice (such as tamashigiri) where I don't want to put any of my nihonto eye-candy at hazard. Some of them even have appreciable niku designed into the cross section as well as by-the-specs heat treat for the steel types used, and cut like a laser.  People can and do win competitions with such cutters. That's not the point (pun intended).  Those blades are only "cheap" when compared with Japanese originals, in that the better-quality Chinese reproductions cost hundreds, instead of thousands, of dollars.

The operative word in my admonition to the OP is "cheap".

The problem with most readily available Chinese tools imported into the US is not that Chinese manufacturing can't provide quality products.  They can and do.  However, the Chinese manufacturers are usually scrupulous in following buyer specs. When the buyers of bulk Chinese tools (such as most "big box" stores have in their "impulse buy" displays) specifically ask for cheap over durable, they certainly get what they paid for.  

[The Violin Beautiful]

I’ve got several Ibex finger planes and I’m satisfied with them. I hear good things about newer German versions and some of the older style with wooden wedges to secure the blades. I’ve tried a few other kinds and thought they were comparable, but I don’t feel inclined to replace the Ibex planes I have already.

As far as the quality of the blades, they seem a little soft to me and with regular use require a bit more maintenance than ideal, but the steel is good enough for all my uses. I think you could buy replacements by another brand that might be better, but I haven’t gotten to that point yet. I’ve thought about trying to make some blades out of an old file to get harder steel that would hold a nice edge longer.

The planes aren’t necessarily in their best working order straight out of the box. The blades need to be shaped to fit their purpose and the planes aren’t necessarily bodies may need a bit of modification to get the blades seated nicely. I tinkered with mine a bit and thought it improved their functionality a little. 

[Violadamore]

10 hours ago, Josep Pampidó said:

I have not experience but what about upgrading the blades only?

If the plane body is useful, IMHO, it's a good idea.

I've put purpose-made Japanese replacement blades in some of my Stanleys, and definitely got the best of both worlds with that. 

I also got given an Indian set of 3 little brass-and-rosewood finger planes along with a carving knife handle w/blade likewise, for Christmas one year.  Visually impressive, and nice in the hand, but terrible blades that wouldn't take or hold a proper edge.  Quietly substituting new blades all around fixed that, but politely not griping, and being seen using them, got me a set of totally appalling and unredeemable carving chisels from the same source the following year...........    

[M Alpert]

32 minutes ago, Violadamore said:

If the plane body is useful, IMHO, it's a good idea.

I've put purpose-made Japanese replacement blades in some of my Stanleys, and definitely got the best of both worlds with that. 

I also got given an Indian set of 3 little brass-and-rosewood finger planes along with a carving knife handle w/blade likewise, for Christmas one year.  Visually impressive, and nice in the hand, but terrible blades that wouldn't take or hold a proper edge.  Quietly substituting new blades all around fixed that, but politely not griping, and being seen using them, got me a set of totally appalling and unredeemable carving chisels from the same source the following year...........    

 I'm pretty sure I have the same set, the blades are awful!

For what it's worth, I've made usable blades from old files, the steel is pretty hard and holds an edge. If you don't grind off all the file teeth, presto, you have a toothed blade! 

Rough cut and shape with an angle grinder...

[Bodacious Cowboy]

My finger planes are a mix of ibex, herdim, Cremona tools and a bunch of random no-name antiques. I find the Ibex a little "bulbous" so I ground some off the sides of the soles to help getting in to tight spots. I replaced the blades with ones I made from old gewa gold steel knives. Much better. If I was buying a new set I'd probably go for herdim or the CAG steel ones from Cremona. 

[Riccardo964]

On 6/11/2026 at 12:30 AM, Will Turner said:

especially on the maple

I also bought some cheap Chinese brass thumb planes to 'play with' and I 'feel your despair' on the quality of the blades...

Having said that, and without wishing to change the subject, I am considering buying a "toothed" thumb plane blade, I am reading that it helps dealing with crazy maple wood directions altogether. Just passing by to say this really. I look forward for other answers, as I have the very same doubt about it.

Thanks in advance!

Cheerios,

Riccardo964

[lorenzo fossati]

2 hours ago, Riccardo964 said:

I am considering buying a "toothed" thumb plane blade

I recently converted an ibex flat plane, which I never really used, making it round to fit a toothed blade (10 mm)

What I think, toothed blades are more grinders than wooden planes, I like how they behave, useful especially with maple!

[HoGo]

Perhaps better heat treating can help some of those blades. Quenching ordinary carbon steel is not a rocket science.

[Dave Slight]

On 6/11/2026 at 12:30 AM, Will Turner said:

I've been considering purchasing a series of IBEX finger planes.   Any of you use those and find them to be of great value?   Do the blades hold their sharpness longer, especially on the maple?

If it is possible, try to borrow one, before buying.
The reason I say this, is that I found mine very uncomfortable to hold, leading to blisters. I was in the position where I was able to try other brands owned by colleagues in the workshop, and discovered how much more comfortable they were to use. I also felt the mouth was too far forward, compared to something like the old GEWA model.

I sold my Ibex soon after, and have never missed them. The blades were very good hard steel, and the planes were beautifully made.

[Justin Allen]

I have both Ibex planes and some inexpensive Chinese-made ones I picked up on Amazon just to try out because the price was so low. The Amazon planes are actually pretty decent for what they cost, in my opinion, but the Ibex planes are noticeably better. To answer your question, they also hold an edge much more effectively. I own quite a few different planes, and while some perform better than others, the Ibex clearly outperform the lower-cost Chinese versions I have. If you use them regularly, I’d say the Ibex are worth the extra money.

[David Burgess]

3 hours ago, Dave Slight said:

I was in the position where I was able to try other brands owned by colleagues in the workshop, and discovered how much more comfortable they were to use.

Which brands did you find more comfortable to use?

[Deo Lawson]

I have two ibex planes, both round bottom. The larger one has a toothed blade. I use them both all the time, and the blades are good quality. The base on the smaller one was clearly cast lopsided though and it always cut deeper on one side than the other, which drove me nuts. I guess they don't make em like they used to.

[Violadamore]

7 hours ago, HoGo said:

Perhaps better heat treating can help some of those blades. Quenching ordinary carbon steel is not a rocket science.

IMHO, for hard enough edges (60 HRC or harder), you're talking at least 1060 steel quenched into ice water (NOT oil) from high orange heat.  You'd better know what you're doing.  

Some of what's used for cheap tool blades doesn't have enough carbon to begin with.

[Bodacious Cowboy]

6 hours ago, Dave Slight said:

If it is possible, try to borrow one, before buying.
The reason I say this, is that I found mine very uncomfortable to hold, leading to blisters. I was in the position where I was able to try other brands owned by colleagues in the workshop, and discovered how much more comfortable they were to use. I also felt the mouth was too far forward, compared to something like the old GEWA model.

I sold my Ibex soon after, and have never missed them. The blades were very good hard steel, and the planes were beautifully made.

What did you replace the Ibex planes with, Dave?

Edit: I see David B has already sort of asked that question. Must learn to read thread before posting. 

[The Violin Beautiful]

I used to use the Ibex planes for hours every day, and while they did give me a few blisters after hours of continuous use, I developed calluses later and the problem went away. I find them pretty comfortable now. 

[nathan slobodkin]

Blades can be bought or made for any planes. I think the shape of the plane is more importsnt as is the throat opening. I find the Ibex to be too wide for their length. My own planes are some pretty cheap castings bought from Cremona in the 1980s which had enough metal on them to allow me to shape them the way I wanted. I used steel from the old style reciprocal hacksaw machine blades and easily made one or two instruments between sharpening.

[Dave Slight]

14 hours ago, David Burgess said:

Which brands did you find more comfortable to use?

 

12 hours ago, Bodacious Cowboy said:

What did you replace the Ibex planes with, Dave?

Edit: I see David B has already sort of asked that question. Must learn to read thread before posting. 

About 15 years ago, Cremona tools did a copy run of the old GEWA models (including flat sole versions), but with a screw, rather than the wedge of the old ones. I've been really pleased with these, and with the mouths further back I find they bridge over the hollows better. When I received them, I was surprised how tight the mouths were, and adjusted those a little to prevent shavings from jamming.
I'm not sure where they sourced the blades from back then, but whatever they are, the steel seems exceptionally good. Both for the regular blades, and the toothed ones.

My other thumb plane is the largest Herdim one, which I modified the sole of, to make a scrub plane.

As with all things, these are just my preferences, I'd made many instruments with the Ibex, but glad I don't have to now.

[Will Turner]

Well, my wife gifted me the following:

Does a far better job than what I was using.    Going to order some sawtoothed blades to go with these.   Anyone use the palm rests on the 12 and 18mm planes?