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Posted

You could also wind over a separate thread loop on bottom facet towards end, put tail through it at very end and pull through and up tight with loop ends for hidden tail tuck. There’s a little more to it than that but that might give you an idea to get started.  Traditional French method taught by Lynn Hannings in her master bow classes at UNH. Her classes are amazing and she’s a master level maker and restorer. 
 

Posted

Yes, I learned silk winding with Lynn at UNH. The end has already been secured using the loop method. However, period bows such as I am working on usually do not have a leather grip. The hand has a tendency to move the silk around even when wound as tight as possible. Lynn did not mention glue that I can remember. It doesn’t seem like the winding will last very long without securing it.

Posted

The smart way to secure whalebone/baleen lapping (not that you're ever going to use it fresh,but in restoration)   is tp paint the area under it with shella,  & wrap while it's still sticky.  Which might, or might not be directly relevant to silk/tinsel lapping.

And to the extent that it's necessary to cite some authority in order to know anything, in this case Bill Watson via Brian Tunnnicliffe.

Posted

I just pass the end on the tinsel under the last two windings and pull it tight whilst keeping the last two windings flat with my thumb nail. I do use a dab of very thin CA  that soaks in and under the tinsel and holds everything tight. I then just cut off the tinsel flush with the lapping and burnish slightly . The end of the thread is virtually invisible. I dont quite follow your mention of getting CA on the silk. Every historical lapping ive seen ends with tinsel ,so acetone or whatever can easily remove any excess.

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