Butchering plane blades

[JonGeo]

Good day

i had a thought the other day while I was card scraping ribs. In the midst of my frustration trying to scrape the ribs to the right size I found I often scrape the edges to thin… poor technique + little experience x wood is not cheap = necessity.. and necessity is the mother of invention. I dug out a second hand block plane blade and ground it to a 90degree bevel. Popped it into my low angle block plane and I couldn’t be happier with the results… 

I was able to get the ribs to 1.1mm +/- .02mm.. it scraped like butter and was an absolute joy. 
 

the idea was inspired by Lie Nelson’s scraper blade for their block plane… so I didn’t just dream it up.

 

thoughts?

 

[ernym]

I use a LN toothed blade in my LN62 low angle plane to remove material fast and evenly. Then finish with LN scraper plane. Haven't tried a 90 thick blade for scraping but many roads lead to Rome, good work.

 

[Brad Dorsey]

6 hours ago, JonGeo said:

...I dug out a second hand block plane blade and ground it to a 90degree bevel...

If you're talking about the blade shown in your first picture, it looks a lot closer to a 45-degree bevel.  It's also a toothed blade.  It looks like your ribs came out good.

[Wood Butcher]

21 hours ago, JonGeo said:

Good day

i had a thought the other day while I was card scraping ribs. In the midst of my frustration trying to scrape the ribs to the right size I found I often scrape the edges to thin… 

When using a card scraper, you need to bow it using your thumbs. This cuts better, and will avoid the edges becoming too thin.
It also helps to angle the scraper across several flames, to get a smooth finish.

Some makers scrape at the same angle as the flame, to create a rippled finish for antiqued copies.

Edited November 3 by Wood Butcher
Spelling mistake

[Shunyata]

Japanese 42mm scraper plane is perfect for the job!

[LCF]

I use an old Stanley #12 scraper plane to finish off ribs. This holds a cabinet scraper blade in a cast body with handles. The inclination of the blade is adjustable.

 

https://images.app.goo.gl/jRi5WxDMBGgU4Mbd9

[JonGeo]

6 hours ago, Wood Butcher said:

When using a card scraper, you need to bow it using your thumbs. This cuts better, and will avoid the edges becoming too thin.
It also helps to angle the scraper across several flames, to get a smooth finish.

Some makers scrape at the same angle as the flame, to create a rippled finish for antiqued copies.

Thank you for the advice on the scraper.. my technique if far from perfect so any insight helps. :-)

I scraped at the same angle on the first back I made (so far the only back I’ve made… hopefully will start a new one this month) and I thought I had ruined it, till I came here and found that people do it intentionally for various affects. My fear doing that on the ribs would be if it weakens them when it comes to bending?

@Shunyata I thought those were for bow making?

[Shunyata]

1 hour ago, JonGeo said:

@Shunyata I thought those were for bow making?

They are for flattening the soles of Japanese kanna planes. But that doesn’t stop me from using it where ever else is useful!  

The laminated steel blades are amazing and leave a glass finish.

[Claudio Rampini]

18 hours ago, Shunyata said:

They are for flattening the soles of Japanese kanna planes. But that doesn’t stop me from using it where ever else is useful!  

The laminated steel blades are amazing and leave a glass finish.

I'm using a japanese Kanna for all things I need when I want get a glass finish everywhere, curly maple included:

 

[ernym]

Hi Claudio, 

Do you have a link, where did you buy it?

[Claudio Rampini]

59 minutes ago, ernym said:

Hi Claudio, 

Do you have a link, where did you buy it?

I bought it on Amazon for about 80 euros, I was rather skeptical because it's cheaper, but when I set it up I saw that it works better than my Lie Nielsen, and I don't need of any Tormek to sharpen and maintain the blade, just a cheaper Japanese King 1000/6000 and a diamond DMT stone. The difference between this and the other more expensive Kannas stands on the blade, mine isn't Aogami nr.1 quality, but it works very well. Few weeks ago I bought a more expensive Tsunesaburo Kanna, it's wonderful, but I get the same glass finish, I think that the difference is on the edge's durability. I learned to use the Kanna following some tutorials on YT. The Kanna is simple, is composed of 4 pieces, but it's tricky to set it up the first times you are trying to manage it.

https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B0026FBGT6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

PS: now I'm using the Lie Nielsen plane just for roughing works, the Kanna is just to refine the surfaces.

[Matthew_Graesch]

On 11/3/2024 at 1:29 PM, Shunyata said:

Japanese 42mm scraper plane is perfect for the job!

Where did you get this tool?  I like the idea and I suppose I could make one, but this one looks nice.

 

Thanks

[LCF]

On 11/4/2024 at 5:59 AM, Shunyata said:

Japanese 42mm scraper plane is perfect for the job!

What is the name of that type of scraper plane?

[Rico Suave]

7 minutes ago, LCF said:

What is the name of that type of scraper plane?

Dai naoshi kanna - literally; Body repairing plane (or sole flattening plane)- typically used to repair the wooden sole of a Kanna

Tune up Tutorial;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4ePj-rWdSw

[Shunyata]

1 hour ago, Matthew_Graesch said:

Where did you get this tool?  I like the idea and I suppose I could make one, but this one looks nice.

 

 

5 minutes ago, LCF said:

What is the name of that type of scraper plane?

It is a Dai Naoshi Kanna plane and there are a number of sellers on Amazon.  The Kakuri brand is always well priced and good quality.  Suizan is a both above on both price and quality.

[Shunyata]

Also, you are well advised to get a small Japanese style hammer for adjusting these planes.  You can use other things for tap-adjusting the planes, but those hammers seem perfectly balanced for this task.