New learning

[Niko Luthieria]

Hey guys, how are you today?

My name is Nicolas, I'm from South Brazil, I started playing violino in the church but nothing especial in prodigy, playing violin from like 13 years, and I'm only good enough for a 5 year player School, but I am volunteering helping other people's church mostly children learning the violin. Right know I am studying mechanical engineering in a federal college (here it's free because we pay so much tax, like if I wanna but a violin from outside Brasil and it's like 250dolars, when gets here I have to pay 250 in taxes as well) and I have at least three years to finish.

Recently I have discovered a love for violinmaking, by watching a video from Davide sora making a bridge, then start adjust my own bridge(despiau one tree) and my sound did really enhanced. I did make same mistakes but for first try and without right tools.

But I look forward to learning, studying and making bridges violins adjusts and maybe, who knows, same violins.

I am not seeing what is the right path for me right know.

I don't have that money (my violin was paid 100dolars, today worths like 120 dollars) but I have the will to do what it's take to be a violinmaker one day.

Right know, I'm almost engaged so have to marry, so can't spend money in courses or online guides, here has courses like 400,500 and even 2000dolars,  even tools  I don't have yet.

I was thinking learning about (already did a lot) on the internet, on here but I think I should have even a little diploma so people can trust. Idunno.

What you guys think I should do?

How can I let my mark on bridges without the fire marking? (don't have idea what's is called in English).

[Riccardo964]

20 hours ago, Niko Luthieria said:

I was thinking learning about (already did a lot) on the internet, on here but I think I should have even a little diploma so people can trust. Idunno.

"Don't let a degree get in the way of your education." Violin makers adore to say they are from <PUT RENOWN VIOLIN MAKING INSTITUTE HERE>, however, how their violins ACTUALLY sound? Are they surviving only on their pedigree?

Who knows?

Learn. Practice. Do it all over again. Repeat. Break things. Work on pine. Experiment.

20 hours ago, Niko Luthieria said:

How can I let my mark on bridges without the fire marking? (don't have idea what's is called in English).

You mean like embossing? Could you please send us an image as an example?

Nice to hear about your eagerness to learn, fella, take care here though on the vitriol and the general hate, otherwise, you'll be fine.

Cheerios,

Riccardo964

[Don Noon]

21 hours ago, Niko Luthieria said:

What you guys think I should do?

Given:  

• No money
• Student
• Engaged
• (presumably) no job/income

The first priority is family finances (assuming you DO get married) which means getting a degree and a job.  Getting a set of decent violinmaking tools and materials is not cheap, so best put that off for now and just pick up free information from quality sources on the internet (like Sora).  Mess around with whatever you can get, perhaps practice carving skills.  I wouldn't worry about branding bridges; you might not want anybody to know later who carved the bridge.  Maybe sign them in pencil 

-opinion of an old retired engineer who went that path, sortof.

[Shunyata]

My grandfather made his first violin at age 16, literally working at the family kitchen table.  I have the dairy writings of his younger sister who watched him do it and wrote about his construction technique (using steam from a teapot and bending ribs around nails in a board that followed the contour of the garland!). And I am fortunate to have 45 minutes of recordings of my grandfather sawing away on his fiddle at 93, playing “Beer Barrel Polka”, “Cripple Creek”, and anything else he remembered on the spot.

So you can get started with very little.  Your first violin won’t be great, but you will learn a lot.  Just use whatever low cost materials you can find to practice at first.   
 

What tools do you already have to get started?

[Niko Luthieria]

On 10/18/2024 at 12:32 PM, Riccardo964 said:

You mean like embossing? Could you please send us an image as an example?

yeah like this:
thinking in puting my name "Nicolas Santos" or my idea name for my place something like "Niko Luthieria"
but withou ideas to do it with the things i have here, maybe with soldering iron.
but im not doing it in bridges that i just do the finals ajusts, ive take one from my student(dont have it the conditions for a new one) and it was placed backwards, then a tried to put in the right posicion, shape and it all, and forgot about the string position that i cant change hahahah 
by the way i will post about in my instagram: lutheria_nikasanctus
https://www.instagram.com/lutheria_nikasanctus/
now its almost in the right shape but still backwards.

Thanks for your words Riccardo964,  and for sure agree with you. 

All of best for you,

Learner.

Edited October 19 by Niko Luthieria

[Niko Luthieria]

On 10/18/2024 at 1:25 PM, Don Noon said:

 

-opinion of an old retired engineer who went that path, sortof.

actually i do have a intern job, but i also have a lot of depts and things to take care at home, and even thinking about buying somewhere to live when i get married, by the grace of the Lord. Im hoping to do works(first free then selling it) for the players i know mostly in the church, then with that money start buying tools. 

back to the main point, thats what im doing but with the porpuse of learn all i can about tuning the bridge. I have some ideas of tools that i can carve it, build it so can save some money. Like to measure the thickness on the middle of the bridge with a clothesping(clothes peg), or even the differents effects of the sound.
thats amazing to know, Sound Engineers maybe.

Thanks for you words, Don noon. I for sure will think about it.
All the best for you,
Learner.

[Niko Luthieria]

21 hours ago, Shunyata said:

My grandfather made his first violin at age 16, literally working at the family kitchen table.  I have the dairy writings of his younger sister who watched him do it and wrote about his construction technique (using steam from a teapot and bending ribs around nails in a board that followed the contour of the garland!). And I am fortunate to have 45 minutes of recordings of my grandfather sawing away on his fiddle at 93, playing “Beer Barrel Polka”, “Cripple Creek”, and anything else he remembered on the spot.

So you can get started with very little.  Your first violin won’t be great, but you will learn a lot.  Just use whatever low cost materials you can find to practice at first.   
 

What tools do you already have to get started?

Your grandfather its a inspiration for us, thats amazing to know. 

Yeah for sure, thats the way to do it. 

I have some chisels, files, and other similar tools that my father has accumulated over time. He worked a lot as a mason and built our house, so he has a few woodworking tools. What I really need is something to sharpen the chisels at home; just the file doesn't sharpen them enough, but I might be able to sharpen them in my conventional machining class at college. I've been using an old knife that has lost its serrated edge, so I managed to sharpen the tip with the file. But I feel that I'll need a decent knife or a medical scalpel. I have some pieces of wood to practice with, even thinking about using a peach tree that dried up and keeping its trunk for possibly making a bow in the future. Ideas, lots of ideas.

Thanks for you  words, Shunyata. I will for sure take example on your grandfather.
All the best for you,
Learner.

 

[Niko Luthieria]

Guys, would love if guys have a look in my already works, all of this is in my instagram: lutheria_nikasanctus
 but the videos below show it

1st video its the violin before all. It has chinese strings(fake cheap dominants) and bridge despiau one tree, bow of IPE but not that high quality, its very very bende.

2nd video it was after some things on the brigde, not all of then right. but i did wanna try it my ideas. and I got a new bow, not that high quality of wood but not very bend like the other one. definitlly has more sound.

3rd video it was with new strings, Larsen aurora with D in silver

4th video its after doing final adjusts in the birdge and in the tailpiece distance.

5th video its before and after of the student violin, with the backwards bridge(sadly the feets also is backwards so much effort in fit it, for nothing hahahh)

[M Alpert]

Hey Niko,

I love your enthusiasm. The above responses were spot-on, esp. Mr. Noon.

Family finances are essential. Violin making is a great hobby. It's tricky to make a living at it.

I think you should ask yourself what you really want, and how hard are you prepared to work to get it. Even though that is really hard to answer and will change as you go.

There is more of a chance to be self-taught today (from the internet) than ever before, thanks to wonderful people like Mr. Sora. Still, the learning curve is steep and long.

Making well requires practice (doing things hundreds of times), experience (making mistakes and learning from them), and seeing great instruments in person. Getting proper feedback from experienced players and makers is invaluable. But still you have to sell, which is even more difficult.

There are many threads on this site with excellent discussions of the various challenges luthiers face and how you might go about overcoming them. Read! Be brave, it can be discouraging. But also be realistic, it is not easy to make this your profession.

Repairing can be a more reliable way of supporting yourself, gaining customers and learning from great instruments and players. That has worked for me. But then you need to learn from someone (I went to a school for learning repairing, not making). Perhaps you can still afford to offer your time cheaply to someone local who needs help.

Otherwise, maybe you should consider how you could go to a school somewhere...

Ignore those that say the tools are expensive, they are, but if you have time and will, you can get around that. If you are playing a 100$ violin in Brasil, you can learn to make your own tools. Old files can be very good steel, get a cheap bench grinder and learn to use it, you can make your own knives, planes, chisels and clamps. Even a bending iron can be a construction heat blower or torch into a stainless steel pipe. You don't need all the fancy stuff they are selling you. Go to the library or Amazon and get some books, watch DIY videos.

There are a lot of people making bows in Brasil these days, you could try to find one of them to take you on.

Good luck!

[Marty Kasprzyk]

I suggest you also take some violin playing lessons. 

[M Alpert]

O yeah, and definitely don't stamp your bridges yet. Pencil would be fine, but I suspect you should avoid that too. You'll probably be sorry later

[Riccardo964]

Those are great tips.

Only one 'caveat':

3 hours ago, M Alpert said:

Old files can be very good steel, get a cheap bench grinder and learn to use it, you can make your own knives, planes, chisels and clamps.

Remember that "The set of processes, annealing, hardening and tempering are collectively known as 'heat treating'.":

• To harden most steel it is heated to a medium red or slightly above the point where it becomes non-magnetic. It is then quenched in water, oil or air depending on the type of steel.
• To soften steel so that it can be cold worked and machined is called annealing. To anneal steel is is heated to slightly above the hardening temperature and then cooled as slow as possible.
• To reduce the brittleness the metal is tempered by heating it to some where between 175°C and 730°C.

(Source: https://www.anvilfire.com/21st-century-blacksmithing/heat-treating/)

Files (lima, for you) are hardened when they leave the factory, so you must soften it before putting on the bench grinder or else you'll be extremely annoyed. Of course, there are several treatises on YT about it. Check it out.

That tip about bow making is hot if you are located at Brazil, just don't become a smuggler...

Best wishes,

Riccardo964

[Shunyata]

3 hours ago, Marty Kasprzyk said:

I suggest you also take some violin playing lessons. 

YES!!!  If you are a competent player yourself you can fully appreciate what makes a good player’s instrument.  And if you have this understanding you will intuitively understand what you want to correct in your next instrument.  This makes your learning much faster.

[Niko Luthieria]

hey mrs Albert i highly agree with all you said
 

On 10/19/2024 at 7:50 PM, M Alpert said:

There are many threads on this site with excellent discussions of the various challenges luthiers face and how you might go about overcoming them. Read! Be brave, it can be discouraging. But also be realistic, it is not easy to make this your profession.

On 10/19/2024 at 7:50 PM, M Alpert said:

gnore those that say the tools are expensive, they are, but if you have time and will, you can get around that. If you are playing a 100$ violin in Brasil, you can learn to make your own tools. Old files can be very good steel, get a cheap bench grinder and learn to use it, you can make your own knives, planes, chisels and clamps. Even a bending iron can be a construction heat blower or torch into a stainless steel pipe. You don't need all the fancy stuff they are selling you. Go to the library or Amazon and get some books, watch DIY videos.

Thats great to know i will look for it thank youuuuu

 

On 10/19/2024 at 7:50 PM, M Alpert said:

There are a lot of people making bows in Brasil these days, you could try to find one of them to take you on.

Good luck!

i did think in that, but looks like a little to advanced, i wanna start trying rehair bows looks like a great challenge but worth it. Maybe doing the plugs with the wood of Clothes Pegs, looks like very soft.

 

On 10/19/2024 at 8:22 PM, Marty Kasprzyk said:

I suggest you also take some violin playing lessons

I was doing it but right know im out of money. But i am playing in the Orchestra of Our College Music, the 1st in the state. Im the worst player there but keeps me motivated to always practice.

 

 

On 10/19/2024 at 8:33 PM, M Alpert said:

O yeah, and definitely don't stamp your bridges yet. Pencil would be fine, but I suspect you should avoid that too. You'll probably be sorry later

Actually im not that good at bridges(tell me what you guys think of it, i was trying new things), here my first (didnt do anything to the feets, but to the rest yes you can compare with the thumbnail in the 1st video above)  but im looking forward to do my first bridge from the ground.


 

Edited October 22 by Niko Luthieria
Forgot something

[Niko Luthieria]

On 10/19/2024 at 11:47 PM, Riccardo964 said:

Files (lima, for you) are hardened when they leave the factory, so you must soften it before putting on the bench grinder or else you'll be extremely annoyed. Of course, there are several treatises on YT about it. Check it out.

That tip about bow making is hot if you are located at Brazil, just don't become a smuggler...

Thank you very much for the valuable information. I will definitely look into learning more about it.

Pau-Brasil, or as you know it, Pernambuco wood, is not so abundant here due to our colonization. Many things were taken away, like our gold to Portugal, spices, Pau-Brasil, coffee, among many others. And worse, Pernambuco wood (from the state of Pernambuco, yes, that’s why it’s named) is from the northeast, and I live in the south (State of Paraná), which is very far away, hahaha. But here we have many IPE trees, which many luthiers consider to be of the same quality as Pernambuco wood. Who knows, maybe in the future, I would like to make bows, but not become a smuggler, hahaha.

 

On 10/19/2024 at 11:53 PM, Shunyata said:

YES!!!  If you are a competent player yourself you can fully appreciate what makes a good player’s instrument.  And if you have this understanding you will intuitively understand what you want to correct in your next instrument.  This makes your learning much faster.

For sure thats make sense. I hope my ear can sense, with time, even the little differences in the sound so help in the work, but for this, a lot of pratice and hearing.

Thank you guys for every thing, really, i apreciate it. 

Doubt: right now im not touching the soundpost, so i can have a great tone, should i obey the distance of the nut to the bridge(325 to 328mm to some) even when get really close of the soundpost, or should i go by the thickness of the top plate, for the distance of the bridge to the soundpost or go by the distance of the bridge to the top body of the violin(195mm)?

 

[David Burgess]

On 10/17/2024 at 2:47 PM, Niko Luthieria said:

Recently I have discovered a love for violinmaking, by watching a video from Davide sora

Shame on Davide Sora for corrupting you!

[Riccardo964]

Just remember one thing: in woodworking, you CAN leave your plane facing the wood, NOT sideways. Safety first.

(there, I've said it - not trolling - not flaming - sorry if I offended someone)

[Whittler]

Greetings Nicolas,

 

You evidently have youth and intelligence on your side- also, congratulations on your impending marriage. With your church activities, job, studies, etc. you will need to manage your time and financial resources effectively to pursue your lutherie goals. I agree that learning proper repair work and set-ups would likely be the first logical step toward gaining some cash income while you progress toward building whole instruments. You are probably aware that the low and middle grade fiddle trade is largely dominated by Chinese companies which utilize CNC machinery, so ultimately you will have to build very fine violins if you wish to earn a decent living as a full-time instrument maker, if that's what you want to do. Agree that a diploma of some sort, or apprenticeship with a known highly-skillled luthier would be your best bet at learning the proper skills and presenting them to customers. You might seek out the better luthiers / legitimate repair experts either in your area or where you're able to travel, and inquire politely about visiting them. You may or may not find an apprenticeship this way, but you could also have some luck and at least get some advice and maybe be permitted to observe some of their work. If you don't mind the advice from a 60-year-old man, it's a good idea to bring a small, but high-quality gift if you're invited to meet a skilled luthier / expert repairer or bowmaker. This shows appreciation for their time, and the years of study and practice they've invested in their trade. Some wonderful, perfectly ripe fruit or especially good mate would probably be appreciated. Don't be too disparaging in the self-assessment of your playing skills. From your videos, you seem to have well-developed abilities overall, and a very nice vibrato technique. You're a much better fiddle player than I am- although I've been a guitarist for over 50 years, I'm very new to bowed instruments. Agree that it's always a good idea to study with better players, and continue improving. Hats off to you for your efforts in teaching children- very commendable. With regard to the heated wood marking tool described, it is called in English a branding iron (the same term used for the heated metal tool cowboys use for marking cattle). If you search for "woodworking branding iron" I think you will find companies that will make a brass logo for you, with your own specifications regarding print style and desired info, that is designed to screw onto a particular soldering iron- it has to be the correct thread, obviously. Then practice on scrap wood of the type you wish to mark, to get a precise effect. As mentioned by others, very good chisels can be made from any suitable (high quality) steel scrap: old files, saw blades, etc. For detail work, you can make excellent small chisels from a Bahco (I believe made in Brazil now * Edit: Portugal, actually- these scrapers are made of first-rate steel and should be avail. in Brazil very affordably, as they're inexpensive here in the U.S. The thicker one is .8 mm) or Two Cherries card scraper (using a thicker one, typically), by cutting it into the chosen width with a hacksaw, then filing the rough edges and polishing with progressively finer passes of silicon carbide sandpaper (called wet-or-dry here in the U.S.)- the black-colored type, which is available down to very fine grit. You can also use a Dremel-type rotary tool with a cut-off wheel (abrasive disc), but after marking the cut line with a fine felt-tip pen, you should make light, repetitive passes, keeping the wheel moving along rapidly (to avoid heating and ruining the tempered steel). Once you've cut most of the way through (I like to cut from both sides, carefully matching the pen lay-out lines so they precisely match), you can clamp the chisel part in a vise (cardboard on either side to protect the work from being harmed by the steel jaws), then flex the steel back-and-forth by hand and it will break at the cut. For optimum efficiency and ease of use, all cutting tools should be kept razor sharp. The very best method I've found also, fortunately, happens to be the cheapest: I strongly recommend that you research "Scary Sharp" sharpening method. All you need is some 1/2" / 12.5mm float glass (you can usually find cheap or free scrap cut-offs at a glass business that makes coffee tables, etc.). You can also use very flat, ground marble slab cut-offs. You can glue various grits of silicon carbide / wet-or-dry sandpaper to your flat surface using a light coating of spray adhesive (be careful to avoid trapping bubbles- start at one end and slowly press down while rubbing your finger lightly back-and-forth). If you can find it affordably where you are, the very best abrasive I've found is 3M Imperial Lapping Film with PSA backing (pressure sensitive adhesive)- very high quality, plastic film (not paper) sandpaper, available down to extremely fine grits for polishing a razor-sharp final edge, and already has a thin, even coat of adhesive. *The finest grits are made with aluminum oxide, not silicon carbide, but hone hard steel easily. For touching-up steel cutting edges you will mostly need only the 3 finest grits available- for rougher work you can use coarser grit SiC wet-or-dry paper, which is much cheaper. For maintaining a good, consistent angle you will need a good honing guide; a home-made one is not difficult to fabricate- you'll no doubt find suitable ideas online. I always draw-sharpen (pulling the chisel toward myself with the sharp edge pointed away, and handle facing me). This is how a trained sushi chef sharpens a blade. With coarser grits I use a little honing oil (I prefer butcher block oil, sold at home improvement / builders' supply stores for rubbing wooden kitchen cutting boards- it's the same thin mineral oil as baby oil, but without fragrance) to float away the steel filings and any dislodged grit particles (called swarf in English), but with the last 3 finest grits the 3M Lapping Film is used dry, with very light pressure and repetitive, even strokes. I like to use abrasive strips that are the full (long length) of the abrasive paper or plastic film, to achieve a longer stroke, and again, use 1 direction only (away from the sharp edge)- not back-and-forth. Using the 3M Film in this manner with good steel produces an edge so sharp that I don't believe it's possible to achieve any better.

w/ Best Regards and Blessings

[Brad Dorsey]

That paragraph is too long, so I didn’t read it.

[Whittler]

Then you won't be troubled by the info contained therein- certainly your prerogative.

[Marty Kasprzyk]

12 hours ago, Brad Dorsey said:

That paragraph is too long, so I didn’t read it.

I moved the paragraph down on my computer screen so that its bottom edge cut off a big lower portion of the long paragraph.  I then scrolled downward to reveal more and more lines of the paragraph.

Sort of like moving a ruler under the lines of a paper printed book to make it easier to read.

 

[Niko Luthieria]

13 hours ago, Whittler said:

w/ Best Regards and Blessings

I cant thank you enough for so much gold information. I will look close to your reply. I liked the Scary sharp methoded. Thank you so much for all, God bless you.

 

 

13 hours ago, Brad Dorsey said:

That paragraph is too long, so I didn’t read it.

 

38 minutes ago, Marty Kasprzyk said:

Sort of like moving a ruler under the lines of a paper printed book to make it easier to read.

 

You guys think you are so funny. Worst then my little cousins in education. What is yours its reserved. What to plant is free, but the harvest is mandatory.

[David Burgess]

4 hours ago, Marty Kasprzyk said:

I moved the paragraph down on my computer screen so that its bottom edge cut off a big lower portion of the long paragraph.  I then scrolled downward to reveal more and more lines of the paragraph.

Sort of like moving a ruler under the lines of a paper printed book to make it easier to read.

Being less high-tech than you, I printed it out on a piece of paper, cut the printed text into pieces with scissors, and reassembled the pieces into a more easily readable format.

3 hours ago, Niko Luthieria said:

You guys think you are so funny. Worst then my little cousins in education.

Uh uh, looks like we've been mightily scourged! 

[VicM]

17 hours ago, Whittler said:

Then you won't be troubled by the info contained therein- certainly your prerogative.

I suggest you drop the sarcasm and show some respect towards readers by editing the post. Surely, you wrote it to inform, not irritate.

[Marty Kasprzyk]

18 hours ago, Whittler said:

Greetings Nicolas,

 

You evidently have youth and intelligence on your side- also, congratulations on your impending marriage. With your church activities, job, studies, etc. you will need to manage your time and financial resources effectively to pursue your lutherie goals. I agree that learning proper repair work and set-ups would likely be the first logical step toward gaining some cash income while you progress toward building whole instruments. You are probably aware that the low and middle grade fiddle trade is largely dominated by Chinese companies which utilize CNC machinery, so ultimately you will have to build very fine violins if you wish to earn a decent living as a full-time instrument maker, if that's what you want to do. Agree that a diploma of some sort, or apprenticeship with a known highly-skillled luthier would be your best bet at learning the proper skills and presenting them to customers. You might seek out the better luthiers / legitimate repair experts either in your area or where you're able to travel, and inquire politely about visiting them. You may or may not find an apprenticeship this way, but you could also have some luck and at least get some advice and maybe be permitted to observe some of their work. If you don't mind the advice from a 60-year-old man, it's a good idea to bring a small, but high-quality gift if you're invited to meet a skilled luthier / expert repairer or bowmaker. This shows appreciation for their time, and the years of study and practice they've invested in their trade. Some wonderful, perfectly ripe fruit or especially good mate would probably be appreciated. Don't be too disparaging in the self-assessment of your playing skills. From your videos, you seem to have well-developed abilities overall, and a very nice vibrato technique. You're a much better fiddle player than I am- although I've been a guitarist for over 50 years, I'm very new to bowed instruments. Agree that it's always a good idea to study with better players, and continue improving. Hats off to you for your efforts in teaching children- very commendable. With regard to the heated wood marking tool described, it is called in English a branding iron (the same term used for the heated metal tool cowboys use for marking cattle). If you search for "woodworking branding iron" I think you will find companies that will make a brass logo for you, with your own specifications regarding print style and desired info, that is designed to screw onto a particular soldering iron- it has to be the correct thread, obviously. Then practice on scrap wood of the type you wish to mark, to get a precise effect. As mentioned by others, very good chisels can be made from any suitable (high quality) steel scrap: old files, saw blades, etc. For detail work, you can make excellent small chisels from a Bahco (I believe made in Brazil now) or Two Cherries card scraper (using a thicker one, typically), by cutting it into the chosen width with a hacksaw, then filing the rough edges and polishing with progressively finer passes of silicon carbide sandpaper (called wet-or-dry here in the U.S.)- the black-colored type, which is available down to very fine grit. You can also use a Dremel-type rotary tool with a cut-off wheel (abrasive disc), but after marking the cut line with a fine felt-tip pen, you should make light, repetitive passes, keeping the wheel moving along rapidly (to avoid heating and ruining the tempered steel). Once you've cut most of the way through (I like to cut from both sides, carefully matching the pen lay-out lines so they precisely match), you can clamp the chisel part in a vise (cardboard on either side to protect the work from being married by the steel jaws), then flex the steel back-and-forth by hand and it will break at the cut. For optimum efficiency and ease of use, all cutting tools should be kept razor sharp. The very best method I've found also, fortunately, happens to be the cheapest: I strongly recommend that you research "Scary Sharp" sharpening method. All you need is some 1/2" / 12.5mm float glass (you can usually find cheap or free scrap cut-offs at a glass business that makes coffee tables, etc.). You can also use very flat, ground marble slab cut-offs. You can glue various grits of silicon carbide / wet-or-dry sandpaper to your flat surface using a light coating of spray adhesive (be careful to avoid trapping bubbles- start at one end and slowly press down while rubbing your finger lightly back-and-forth). If you can find it affordably where you are, the very best abrasive I've found is 3M Imperial Lapping Film with PSA backing (pressure sensitive adhesive)- very high quality, plastic film (not paper) sandpaper, available down to extremely fine grits for polishing a razor-sharp final edge, and already has a thin, even coat of adhesive. *The finest grits are made with aluminum oxide, not silicon carbide, but hone hard steel easily. For touching-up steel cutting edges you will mostly need only the 3 finest grits available- for rougher work you can use coarser grit SiC wet-or-dry paper, which is much cheaper. For maintaining a good, consistent angle you will need a good honing guide; a home-made one is not difficult to fabricate- you'll no doubt find suitable ideas online. I always draw-sharpen (pulling the chisel toward myself with the sharp edge pointed away, and handle facing me). This is how a trained sushi chef sharpens a blade. With coarser grits I use a little honing oil (I prefer butcher block oil, sold at home improvement / builders' supply stores for rubbing wooden kitchen cutting boards- it's the same thin mineral oil as baby oil, but without fragrance) to float away the steel filings and any dislodged grit particles (called swarf in English), but with the last 3 finest grits the 3M Lapping Film is used dry, with very light pressure and repetitive, even strokes. I like to use abrasive strips that are the full (long length) of the abrasive paper or plastic film, to achieve a longer stroke, and again, use 1 direction only (away from the sharp edge)- not back-and-forth. Using the 3M Film in this manner with good steel produces an edge so sharp that I don't believe it's possible to achieve any better.

w/ Best Regards and Blessings

Thanks for the idea of using the 3M film: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/c/abrasives/sheets-rolls/film/