Jump to content
Maestronet Forums

Recommended Posts

Posted
6 hours ago, LCF said:

...I...use 0.8mm ( 1/32") carbide cutters to make bridges... 

Thank you for sharing your experience with cutting wood with small end mills.

 

56 minutes ago, fiddlecollector said:

...I clamp the bow head using...often just 1/2" packing foam glued to a wooden backing...

I like the foam idea.  I have never set up a bow head in a milling vise.

 

56 minutes ago, fiddlecollector said:

...A good illustration of similar repairs on an FX Tourte bow with similar corner crack to the OP's bow is shown in this link ,carried out by Pete Oxley...

Very interesting.

Posted

I tend to agree with lots of that, but Bob Smith epoxy for exotics is quite thin, comes in slow,medium or fast set times,clamps well and is like 50 bagillion times stronger than ca for permanent repairs. It is the only epoxy I would use for such things, particularly the slow set 

Posted
6 hours ago, jezzupe said:

I tend to agree with lots of that, but Bob Smith epoxy for exotics is quite thin, comes in slow,medium or fast set times,clamps well and is like 50 bagillion times stronger than ca for permanent repairs. It is the only epoxy I would use for such things, particularly the slow set 

Never heard about this brand, which one is for exotics, as i can only see slow medium and fast??

I use Hxtal NYL-1 optical epoxy but it takes ages to dry in the UK unless the weather is very warm and it is about the thinest epoxy ive tried. It will wick into cracks especially if you warm the joint a little.

Posted
8 hours ago, fiddlecollector said:

Never heard about this brand, which one is for exotics, as i can only see slow medium and fast?? application ca

I use Hxtal NYL-1 optical epoxy but it takes ages to dry in the UK unless the weather is very warm and it is about the thinest epoxy ive tried. It will wick into cracks especially if you warm the joint a little.

It's now called "oak and teak"....the application calls for an initial application {you get lots of time} you apply, pinch the crack, maybe use a pallete knife or a boar hair to work it in, then you apply a second application, the first soaks in,It's so strong, works well on oily exotics

Posted
Just now, jezzupe said:

It's now called "oak and teak"....the application calls for an initial application {you get lots of time} you apply, pinch the crack, maybe use a pallete knife or a boar hair to work it in, then you apply a second application, the first soaks in,It's so strong, works well on oily exotics

check amazon

  • Northerner changed the title to Bow head mortise crack repair

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.


×
×
  • Create New...