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Bridge with no heart???


Violinnut

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I finished my bridge with ya‘lls help, I did not carve and let it as is. The one „problem“ is that when I lowered it to 3mm and 5.5mm on the G string, the heart almost comes out through the A and D, (small exaggeration ;) )

Now, there are bridges with a lowered heart I could use, or also one without heart. Does it make that much difference in sound? Bridge height is right at 30mm. 

In order to get bridge higher, I would have to replace the fingerboard. String angle is also 160 so that could help to get it to 158. Or I would have to lower the Saddle to get a lower angle.

What would make the most difference as far as sound quality is concerned. The instrument is already strong so I am not looking at increasing sound production. But at the same point, I would love to achieve close to its potential ;)

Any advice is welcomed :) 

IMG_4295.jpeg

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20 minutes ago, Violinnut said:

I finished my bridge with ya‘lls help, I did not carve and let it as is. The one „problem“ is that when I lowered it to 3mm and 5.5mm on the G string, the heart almost comes out through the A and D, (small exaggeration ;) )

Now, there are bridges with a lowered heart I could use, or also one without heart. Does it make that much difference in sound? Bridge height is right at 30mm. 

In order to get bridge higher, I would have to replace the fingerboard. String angle is also 160 so that could help to get it to 158. Or I would have to lower the Saddle to get a lower angle.

What would make the most difference as far as sound quality is concerned. The instrument is already strong so I am not looking at increasing sound production. But at the same point, I would love to achieve close to its potential ;)

Any advice is welcomed :) 

IMG_4295.jpeg

The upper arch of this bridge looks way too flat, so no wonder that the heart is getting too close to the edge. How high are the A and D strings above the fingerboard end, and did you measure the projection?

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I think the d and a string are ok in position, just the arch between them is odd / too flat, but that should not do much. 

Generally, it looks a bit off, visually enforced at the bass side top not going down as usually. It seems like you did not use a reference shape to carve the top?

30mm is on the small side, you could add some wood under the fingerboard correcting its angle, if you want to get closer to normal dimensions. 

Mass distribution of the bridge has very high impact on sound, IMHO. Structurally I wouldn't be scared right now though, it won't collapse.

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7 minutes ago, Blank face said:

The upper arch of this bridge looks way too flat, so no wonder that the heart is getting too close to the edge. How high are the A and D strings above the fingerboard end, and did you measure the projection?

It is not flat, sorry for the false perspective. I used a template from Herdim. I will measure them though and report. The Projection is low right at 25mm

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16 minutes ago, iNeedAnswers said:

I think the d and a string are ok in position, just the arch between them is odd / too flat, but that should not do much. 

Generally, it looks a bit off, visually enforced at the bass side top not going down as usually. It seems like you did not use a reference shape to carve the top?

30mm is on the small side, you could add some wood under the fingerboard correcting its angle, if you want to get closer to normal dimensions. 

Mass distribution of the bridge has very high impact on sound, IMHO. Structurally I wouldn't be scared right now though, it won't collapse.

The angle of the picture is not good. That is why it is showing it a bit flat. Maybe I should remove the bridge to take another picture. I did use a form from Herdim I believe. 

Changing the fingerboard might be needed. It is right at 2mm thickness. 

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If the neck projection is on the low side and reseting isn't an option:

The general rule I use is: Once the bridge height is set, if a ruler laid across the bridge at the corners of the upper curve of shows ANY portion of the heart, either the foot thickness wasn't reduced enough when fitting them, or you need a different (lower heart) blank.

Quick pre-fit test: When sighting down the length of the fingerboard, if any of the heart of a blank bridge is visible above the board surface, I start planning intervention.

Good luck!

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8 hours ago, Jeffrey Holmes said:

If the neck projection is on the low side and reseting isn't an option:

The general rule I use is: Once the bridge height is set, if a ruler laid across the bridge at the corners of the upper curve of shows ANY portion of the heart, either the foot thickness wasn't reduced enough when fitting them, or you need a different (lower heart) blank.

Quick pre-fit test: When sighting down the length of the fingerboard, if any of the heart of a blank bridge is visible above the board surface, I start planning intervention.

Good luck!

This is the best advise here. 

Nothing more frustrating than fitting the feet on a bridge for an old, wonky violin, and it turns out the forehead is juuuuuuuuust a little bit too low for a new bridge. 

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