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Old Violin Restoration & ID


Jonathan21

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4 hours ago, Delabo said:

The bridge remains in the original position that is was in when the OP first posted a picture of it. Whether it would sound and play better if it was aligned withe the f-hole inner nicks is an interesting question.

The best place to start with a set-up is usually as close to the numbers for bridge placement, string length, afterlength, and soundpost placement. If the sound post is up on this fiddle, it could be on the wrong side of the bridge.

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Just now, GeorgeH said:

The best place to start with a set-up is usually as close to the numbers for bridge placement, string length, afterlength, and soundpost placement. If the sound post is up on this fiddle, it could be on the wrong side of the bridge.

Its a good point that you make about checking the soundpost position. As to whether one should place the bridge in line with the inner f-hole nicks or move them elsewhere is beyond my pay grade. Some old violins have replaced longer necks, which must surely affect this decision.

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For student children I would completely ignore the f nicks and place the bridge center exactly at the 195 mm belly stop, the fingerboard length/nut exactly at the 130 mm neck stop, too. That’s hard to tell by the pictures, neither wether the fingerboard is really aligned with the neck nor what else might have been done right or wrong with it (thickness, scoop etc.).

The soundpost position follows the bridge, not the other way round.

These adjustable feet patent bridges might look sophisticated but result usually in a dreadful buzzy tone, are too thick and have almost always an upper arch making the instrument impossible to play as it should be. I have a small bag full with them, taken from other “fast and easy” set up violins. Obviously such feet will never match the arching of a violin  and will cause further damage in the longer or short run.

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