Purfling layout

[Crimson0087]

So any pointers on making my purfling meet before it runs off the corner? If the outside edge of the purfling is 4mm from plate edge then the point runs off the corners. I can do 5mm and it doesn't run off but is that too far in? See pics

[Nick Allen]

4mm is rather generous, unless you're making a late-period Strad or something. 

I looks to me like you've made the corners a little too chubby. Wider corners won't allow the miters to meet in the correct or elegant place. 

I would perhaps revise your corners while you can. What is the width of the ends?

[Kimmo89]

Del Gesu "Lord Wilton" model?
I would stay on the 4mm distance, but the corners are too wide as said. Eather a paper template to draw the purfling position or thinning corners around 2mm. Which side to thin, depending of your final model and style.

[Crimson0087]

Nick the ends are about 8.5 mm

[nathan slobodkin]

2 hours ago, Crimson0087 said:

Nick the ends are about 8.5 mm

Try 7.

[Davide Sora]

3 hours ago, Crimson0087 said:

Nick the ends are about 8.5 mm

 

58 minutes ago, nathan slobodkin said:

Try 7.

Yep, in any case no more than 7.5, which is already a big corner, 8.5 mm is too fat. And to shorten the purfling miter try to deflect the tip of the outside purfling (not the C) inwards a la Stradivarius, without following the edge outline in the very last stretch

[Kimmo89]

Heres a good article including the Stradivari miter if you scroll it down. With measures that gives a point. (worn corners)
https://www.thestrad.com/lutherie/ct-scanning-and-the-betts-stradivari/13491.article

Edit.
In case the link does not show the article:

 

[Wood Butcher]

On 3/18/2023 at 3:01 PM, Davide Sora said:

 

Yep, in any case no more than 7.5, which is already a big corner, 8.5 mm is too fat. And to shorten the purfling miter try to deflect the tip of the outside purfling (not the C) inwards a la Stradivarius, without following the edge outline in the very last stretch

In order to achieve the correct marking out for deflected purfling, which tool should be used?

[Davide Sora]

9 minutes ago, Wood Butcher said:

In order to achieve the correct marking out for deflected purfling, which tool should be used?

You can also go straight by eye by making the offset cut directly with the knife. This was probably the way Stradivari did it. If you like more consistent results, I think the best way is to use a gouge with the appropriate curve to make the superficial mark, preceded by a pencil drawing to get an idea of how it looks and have the chance to modify it before cutting.

 

[Wood Butcher]

Thank you, Davide. Watching that, your skills are very impressive indeed.

If I may ask one more thing, please. At the tip, how much is the purfling moved over? I know it is only a small amount, so my guess is 1mm or less. Is this right?

I find it hard to tell from studying, as the corners are usually heavily worn, and in some cases (on the belly) replacements anyway.

[Davide Sora]

2 hours ago, Wood Butcher said:

Thank you, Davide. Watching that, your skills are very impressive indeed.

If I may ask one more thing, please. At the tip, how much is the purfling moved over? I know it is only a small amount, so my guess is 1mm or less. Is this right?

I find it hard to tell from studying, as the corners are usually heavily worn, and in some cases (on the belly) replacements anyway.

The deviation is variable even within the same violin given the probable freehand execution of the cut. However, it is a matter of taste and what character you want to give. I take as a starting point half a millimeter offset from the midline, i.e. measuring 4 mm from the outside and 3 mm from the C to the purfling tip. This can also be clearly seen in the measurements of the upper left corner of the Betts, which is well-preserved and the least worn out of the four (see previous post).

Anyway, too much precision could even be detrimental to this detail, which in itself is a purely artistic trait as it has no function, and I think it should be treated as such with a certain freedom.

PS: you can see how I use a divider to mark these measures at time 0:45 of the video I posted earlier

[Wood Butcher]

Thank you very much, Davide