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Help with bow identification


P J Lester
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I looked at the eye ring with green tarnish, so the other mounts could be cleaned silver. In question I would prefer to leave black tarnish at the silver to make proof what it is. Of course one can find combinations of nickel and real silver at this bows.

Maybe it could be possible to identify the stamp with more in-focus photos?

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I have always thought that removing the tarnish and making the silver shiny would make a bow more attractive and more sale-able. 

In my experience, other dealers are able to distinguish between untarnished silver and untarnished nickel, and players want bows that play well and look attractive.  So, I see no reason not to remove the tarnish from silver bow fittings.

I don't mean to say that you're wrong; I'm just explaining what I think.

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8 hours ago, Brad Dorsey said:

I have always thought that removing the tarnish and making the silver shiny would make a bow more attractive and more sale-able. 

In my experience, other dealers are able to distinguish between untarnished silver and untarnished nickel, and players want bows that play well and look attractive.  So, I see no reason not to remove the tarnish from silver bow fittings.

I don't mean to say that you're wrong; I'm just explaining what I think.

At first I wrote "in question", meaning if it's not completely clear what kind of metal we are looking at - here we seem to have both nickel and silver.

As second note, the idea of "all as shiny as possible" is to my knowledge disputed since long, actually the restoration efforts are aiming more towards leaving as much original surface structure as possible, at varnish or metal surfaces. High glossy polishing or overcoating with French polish and the like seems to be somehow very old fashioned and destructive.

At least by leaving tarnish I didn't think of letting it be as dark and crusty as possible but just leaving some spots while cleaning other parts carefully and more "conservative".

 

IMG_7762.JPG

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