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charliemaine

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1 hour ago, JacksonMaberry said:

Then it isn't rosinate. 

You're right that rosinates are in some way like lakes! But they have a major difference that is pretty important. 

Lakes: dye precipitated onto a metal oxide 

Rosinates: dye precipitated onto a rosin-metal complex.

In fact some systems for making lakes include rosin, so they can perhaps be considered rosinates. For example, I do this for the red madder pigment,  and transparent verdigris has been known since ancient times, probably the first rosinate that has ever been made.:)

In addition, powdered rosinatas can be used as lakes, simply by mulling them in the varnish instead of cooking them together or by dissolving them in turpentine. I think it was Frank Ravatin who used them that way, and me too.

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22 minutes ago, Davide Sora said:

In fact some systems for making lakes include rosin, so they can perhaps be considered rosinates. For example, I do this for the red madder pigment,  and transparent verdigris has been known since ancient times, probably the first rosinate that has ever been made.:)

In addition, powdered rosinatas can be used as lakes, simply by mulling them in the varnish instead of cooking them together or by dissolving them in turpentine. I think it was Frank Ravatin who used them that way, and me too.

Can you explain how you incorporate the rosin into red madder when making a lake? 

The rosinates settle to the bottom of the jar when left to sit. Can this be scraped out of the jar and mulled into a varnish like a lake pigment? 

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24 minutes ago, Davide Sora said:

In fact some systems for making lakes include rosin, so they can perhaps be considered rosinates. For example, I do this for the red madder pigment,  and transparent verdigris has been known since ancient times, probably the first rosinate that has ever been made.:)

In addition, powdered rosinatas can be used as lakes, simply by mulling them in the varnish instead of cooking them together or by dissolving them in turpentine. I think it was Frank Ravatin who used them that way, and me too.

Davide, what you're describing is using a rosinate as a pigment. I think of it like squares and rectangles: all squares are rectangles, but not all rectangles are squares.

All rosinates are lakes, but not all lakes are rosinates. 

I wanted to make sure charliemaine understood that, in the most specific sense, there is an important difference between what is conventionally called a lake pigment and a rosinate, so that he didn't try to make a varnish without a resin. 

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42 minutes ago, JacksonMaberry said:

I wanted to make sure charliemaine understood that, in the most specific sense, there is an important difference between what is conventionally called a lake pigment and a rosinate, so that he didn't try to make a varnish without a resin. 

I would like to read your article if you send me the link or point me in the direction. I think I understand the difference now between a lake and a rosinate. A rosinate contains rosin and a lake does not. 

The Ertz pigment is just madder root extract attached to an Alum substrate. No rosin invloved.

Don't worry I definitely would not try making a varnish without resin...

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Just now, charliemaine said:

I would like to read your article if you send me the link or point me in the direction. I think I understand the difference now between a lake and a rosinate. A rosinate contains rosin and a lake does not. 

The Ertz pigment is just madder root extract attached to an Alum substrate. No rosin invloved.

Don't worry I definitely would not try making a varnish without resin...

Send me your email address please.

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8 hours ago, JacksonMaberry said:

Send me your email address please.

Appreciate it!  I have a copy of Nunzio's book too but I haven't had the time to read any of it. If your varnish is a 3:2 ratio then I will have to give it a go...that sounds about right to me, durability wise that is. Back when I was making lots of varnish and experimenting I remember reading or asking Brian Lisus about his varnish. If I remember correctly he said that he made his varnish at that time with a 60:40 oil to resin ratio. I found that made a nice varnish for my purposes. I also made nice varnishes using a 1:1 ratio depending on what resin(s) I was using.

I've not used any commercial or homemade 1:1 ratio varnishes that were as brittle as this particular old batch of Nunzio's rosinate. It definitely behaves differently from any 1:1 varnish that I've used. And I've used almost everything out there on the market. 

I do like how well his varnish builds color so quickly and apply's effortlessly. I think if he added more oil it would be an improvement. Sounds like you've made a good choice by changing to a 3:2 ratio.

I will say his amber and copal varnishes are very nice.

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15 hours ago, JacksonMaberry said:

Davide, what you're describing is using a rosinate as a pigment. I think of it like squares and rectangles: all squares are rectangles, but not all rectangles are squares.

All rosinates are lakes, but not all lakes are rosinates. 

I wanted to make sure charliemaine understood that, in the most specific sense, there is an important difference between what is conventionally called a lake pigment and a rosinate, so that he didn't try to make a varnish without a resin. 

Yep, thanks for pointing out. In fact, not all rosinates can be effective as a pigment, the presence of a coloring principle is required, such as madder for example. And a pigment cannot be regarded as a resin for making varnish, unless it is properly formulated as a rosinate for that precise purpose.

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15 hours ago, charliemaine said:

Can you explain how you incorporate the rosin into red madder when making a lake? 

The rosinates settle to the bottom of the jar when left to sit. Can this be scraped out of the jar and mulled into a varnish like a lake pigment? 

As Jackson says, that is, by previously dissolving the rosin in the alkaline solution where the coloring extract will then be added. When the alum is then added, a compound of resin + alum + dye will settle on the bottom of the jar.

Wash, filter, dry, grind, etc. like any other pigment

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4 hours ago, Davide Sora said:

As Jackson says, that is, by previously dissolving the rosin in the alkaline solution where the coloring extract will then be added. When the alum is then added, a compound of resin + alum + dye will settle on the bottom of the jar.

Wash, filter, dry, grind, etc. like any other pigment

Sorry I didn't explain well.

Can I scrape and mull the rosinate(dregs) that settled to the bottom of the varnish jar? Shame to waste it.

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5 hours ago, Davide Sora said:

Yep, thanks for pointing out. In fact, not all rosinates can be effective as a pigment, the presence of a coloring principle is required, such as madder for example. And a pigment cannot be regarded as a resin for making varnish, unless it is properly formulated as a rosinate for that precise purpose.

Right, absolutely. The only exceptions might be copper rosinate (the oldest, as you pointed out) and iron rosinate, which have innate color. 

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4 hours ago, charliemaine said:

Sorry I didn't explain well.

Can I scrape and mull the rosinate(dregs) that settled to the bottom of the varnish jar? Shame to waste it.

I honestly don't know, the presence of oil could make it too soft to be finely ground like a pigment. But if your waste varnish really got super hard and brittle, you might give it a try. Maybe we discover the still unknown way to color the varnish that Stradivari used, and start a new trend.:lol:

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50 minutes ago, sospiri said:

Do all varnishes darken after 100 years?

 

I don't know if all varnishes darken over time, I suppose most do but probably others might lighten as well. Certainly some varnishes colored with pigments or fleeting dyes will lighten, a compound of linseed oil and rosin with no added colors I suppose will certainly darken by oxidation. But getting dark is one thing, turning red is another.

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On 5/20/2022 at 10:07 PM, Davide Sora said:

I don't know if all varnishes darken over time, I suppose most do but probably others might lighten as well. Certainly some varnishes colored with pigments or fleeting dyes will lighten, a compound of linseed oil and rosin with no added colors I suppose will certainly darken by oxidation. But getting dark is one thing, turning red is another.

I suppose everyone develops their own technique and it will still be identifiable long after they have passed. 

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19 minutes ago, Michael_Molnar said:

Attention history enthusiasts: I found tucked in my Michelman book a letter from Michelman to the owner of my copy. If you are interested in history about his company:

Michelman Chemicals, Inc.

6316 Wiehe Rd.

Cincinnati, Ohio

You can see his building on Google Maps Street View.

 

 

That is way cool, Mike! I had the good fortune to exchange some letters with his son, John, who was also a chemist and led the company for many years. I believe Joseph's grandson is now at the helm.

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