differing cello bridge profiles

[Rothwein]

I'm sorry I have nothing useful to offer the discussion, but @keyboardclass, this is the perfect illustration of Streichinstrumentengefühl [phonetically "big long German word noone understands"]

"You shoulda seen it it was... and colors..."

"Yeah, but what was the sound like?"

"A hornet trapped between two woolcards. But man, the wood..."

Enjoy your cello! 

[keyboardclass]

4 minutes ago, Rothwein said:

"A hornet trapped between two woolcards. But man, the wood..."

 

Sounds like one of my clavichords.  (box of flies being the french expresion)

[Blank face]

2 hours ago, keyboardclass said:

I don't want to give it back with a sound post crack. 

It already has a large, badly repaired soundpost crack (as well as other issues with seams).

[keyboardclass]

I'm off to the luthier now.   Will report back.

[Blank face]

(continuing)...a strange line at the bottom post area, a misfitted button.......

[Blank face]

The bridge seems to be the most less problem.

[jacobsaunders]

I am unable to enlarge the pictures, I know not why. Nevertheless I can see the sound post crack. That it isn’t purfeled seems difficult to imagine.

This thread reminds me of when I was a young violin repairer in Munich. Every Monday I reported to the senior boss, and was issued with the customer repairs I was expected to do that week. One week, there were 4 violins, all of which the fingerboard had dropped off, and some penny pinching parent had glued the fingerboards back on crooked using Pattex (a Jerry contact adhesive one uses to mend shoes etc.). It is almost impossible to get the crooked Pattex fingerboard back off the neck in one piece, the best bet being a 1 inch chisel and a mallet. I spent the whole week thinking f….. idiots!

[keyboardclass]

Thanks for the attention folks.  The luthier is going to shape the sound post and bridge feet for me.  Sorry you can't enlarge the pics - I resized them so the page wouldn't take so long to load.  If you want the originals let me know.  I'm going to glue a couple of bits of wood together and see if Titebond will come apart with applied heat like hide glue.  If that's the case Jacob can stop thinking f..... idiot!   Also, I obviusly can't measure (f..... idiot) the action is not 5mm too high.  According to the man it's OK.

[HoGo]

Titebon WILL soften with heat unlike hide glue. Titebond will become rubbery and pliable with heat above 60C or so. Applying heat is standard method of guitar restorers to release titebond or PVA glues. Hide glue can be taken apart mostly because it is brittle and often intentionally diluted to be weaker (on top seams).

[keyboardclass]

My thoughts are, therefore, that an amateur can't do any damage with it?

[Dave Slight]

That is a dangerous train of thought. More instruments have been destroyed by people working on them who had little idea of what to do, than were ever destroyed in accidents.

There is a reason you don’t get amateur heart surgeons, for example.

[David Burgess]

3 hours ago, Dave Slight said:

That is a dangerous train of thought. More instruments have been destroyed by people working on them who had little idea of what to do, than were ever destroyed in accidents.

There is a reason you don’t get amateur heart surgeons, for example.

What sorta heart fixin' can't be done with a soundpost setter?

[keyboardclass]

Got it back from the luthier last week.  He did a lovely job shaping the bridge feet and put in a new sound post.  The fingerboard is still attached Originally it had a screwed/nailed neck - there's just the hole left now (on the inside).