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Fitting Pegs


Shunyata
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I am embarrassed to ask, but here goes.  When fitting pegs to a new, unreamed pegbox do you...

1. Make all of the reamed holes the same diameter and shave pegs to fit.

2. Shave all of the pegs to the same diameter and ream the holes to fit.

3. Somewhere in between based upon some consideration.

Finally, does anyone have guidance on the appropriate diameters for the different pegs or holes?

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Since I use a lathe to cut the peg shafts, it's much easier for me to cut all the pegs to the same size (7.2mm) and then ream the holes to fit.  With a peg shaver, it might be easiest the other way around.  For the rough peg holes, 1/4" would be slightly too large for the small side of the hole, so I use the next size smaller.  I prefer to start with small diameter pegs and holes, which also fits a small Wittner geared peg, if the client wants that.

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I was taught to shave all the pegs to their collars in the largest hole of the Dick four-hole shaver for small violins them ream the holes to the desired peg extension.  The idea is to start off with the holes a little on the small side, since they will gradually wear bigger.

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2 hours ago, Shunyata said:

I am embarrassed to ask, but here goes.  When fitting pegs to a new, unreamed pegbox do you...

1. Make all of the reamed holes the same diameter and shave pegs to fit.

2. Shave all of the pegs to the same diameter and ream the holes to fit.

3. Somewhere in between based upon some consideration.

Finally, does anyone have guidance on the appropriate diameters for the different pegs or holes?

I make all the pegs the same diameter and ream the holes in the pegbox until I get the same protrusion for all of them. For new violins I don't think it makes much sense to do the opposite. As for the diameter at the collar, I like 7.6 mm (anyway the smaller hole in my peg shaper). If the wood is very hard and stiff and the head does not protrude too much, 7.2 is fine too because allow you to get smaller holes, but I prefer to be cautious to avoid finding myself with pegs that flex before starting to turn, quite possible with woods that are not too stiff. For the starting holes I use 5 mm drill bit. I don't have precise measurements of the finished reamed holes, I think about 6 mm  the smaller one and 7 mm the wider one on the opposite side.

If you are interested I put this post on the Contemporary maker's gallery forum:

https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/350745-davide-soras-bench/&do=findComment&comment=958457

 

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18 hours ago, Shunyata said:

Finally, does anyone have guidance on the appropriate diameters for the different pegs or holes?

With the neck block still square I mark the hole positions with a sharp point, use an electric drill and a 3/32 bit to drill through to the other side and then follow with a 1/8 drill bit - then start the cutting and gouge work for the scroll/pegbox.

What I have found for better accuracy before the first shavings of the reamer is to use a chuck from a not needed drill and hand turn the drill bit holding the chuck and turn slow and straight with bits that are smaller in diameter than the size of the end of the reamer and work your way up bit size wise so one doesn't split the pegbox.  Yes, break/bust apart an old drill for the chuck.

I have read elsewhere that using a known well tuning peg is a good way to start the peg tapering process - don't remember where I read that though.

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1 hour ago, Shunyata said:

Thank you all.  I have been fitting constant diameter pegs myself.  But the different hole diameters bothered my sensibilities and I began to question myself.

I will proceed with confidence!

Well, it is impossible to have all the holes the same size. By setting the pegs to the same size before reaming you will get the larger holes towards the collar all the same, but the smaller ones on the opposite side progressively larger, but if you wanted to get all the small holes the same for aesthetic reasons, then the size of pegs shafts would be different, which would probably be worse aesthetically:)

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I have made several of these tools for myself and a number of friends. Incredibly handy for all sorts of things from tools to holding small pieces while grinding. Pick up an old drill motor at a garage sale for the chuck. The handle is a piece of aluminum hex stock. A wooden handle would work too. This one needs a little cleanup as it sits in the garage workshop in humid Florida.

20220115_111217.thumb.jpg.40507cfd94a0251357447f13d1b5a32f.jpg

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