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Workshop walls


Jim Bress
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4 hours ago, Don Noon said:

Go with shelves, posters, tool racks...  the paint behind them won't matter.

This is practical. With a collection of wood and specialized tools, shelves, despite the lack of aesthetics, becomes practical. Bookshelves also take up space. The size of that space is awesome. There are many many shops that are smaller in square footage. Truly envious...

In place of paint, unfinished Baltic birch plywood ( sheet ) as it is replaceable, light in color and acoustically reasonable - has been used. It is pricey now, but has been affordable in the past. Thought about finishing the ply, but the unfinished wood is also pleasant. Sonically ( and thermally, ) it can also work as a buffer, though it appears it would not be an issue for your space. And protects the walls, necessary or not.

To contrast, there is also a small, acoustically dead room that is full of foam and very dark. For some reason, cutting bridges often happens in that space. Perhaps the contrast in light allows for mental focus necessary to seat and shape a bridge. The sounds the blades make against the bridge make for an enhanced experience. 

Interesting topic. 

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If you are using a light source with a high color-rendering-index: White walls, including just about any of the 1000 colors called "white" should do a lot better than red or blue.

But lining your walls with aluminum foil (like a light box) or mirrors will probably do even better for both color accuracy, and getting Violadamore to come to a party. ;)

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1 hour ago, David Burgess said:

If you are using a light source with a high color-rendering-index: White walls, including just about any of the 1000 colors called "white" should do a lot better than red or blue.

But lining your walls with aluminum foil (like a light box) or mirrors will probably do even better for both color accuracy, and getting Violadamore to come to a party. ;)

And I just thought you did it so you could take your tinfoil hat off in the workshop.  :P

Like some others here, I'd expect that what storage and equipment you've stuffed the workshop with would obscure reflectance from the walls considerably.  :)

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21 hours ago, Don Noon said:

Go with shelves, posters, tool racks...  the paint behind them won't matter.

 

17 hours ago, Mark Norfleet said:

It's not my favorite color for a shop wall (mine are beige and white) but I think I wouldn't bother spending the time to change it and do other things instead, like covering it with whatever is on the walls of your current shop.

 

16 hours ago, FiddleDoug said:

You beat me to it! My shop is multiple use, and you can't hardly see any of the walls.

 

16 hours ago, uncle duke said:

If the man doesn't like baby blue, he doesn't like baby blue.

My current shop is an unfinished basement with white foundation walls or bare studs. I'm perfectly happy with it.

For the new shop Uncle Duke is spot on. I just don't like baby blue. If I don't take care of the wall paint on the way in, it will never get done and will annoy me every time I glimpse a wall through all the other stuff.

Cheers,

Jim

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I am not a fan of baby blue either. <_<

I also like to feel ownership of my house/space; fresh paint is an easy way to do that. Plus, it's always nice to have a clean start - instead of looking at other people's "dirt" (scuff marks, etc.). ^_^

Speaking of dirt ..the griege/taupe colours hide it well...just sayin'...:P

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Assuming the inspection passes - the easiest way to repaint just the room only is to match the trim color exactly, buy flat interior sheen paint, tape off the trim around door and windows, if needed, lightly sand the walls, cut in with a brush first any areas where you think a roller won't be able to work well enough and finally roll out the walls.

Since a flat is being recommended by me one could roll the walls first and cut in areas with a brush lastly.  Three gallons should do it because of the blue color, yes, two coats.  A 3/4 nap lambswool 9" is what I'd use but a 1/2 nap would be safer to use.

Using the same color on the walls as the trim will enable actually hitting the underside of the crown molding with a brush and or roller - just get up there and rag it off cleanly leaving the underneath caulking seam the same color as the wall instead of trying to separate a seam of two different colors.

If you don't want the same color as the trim buy a Hyde brand 1.5 inch thick blade, which has no flex, to use to separate the two colors - use a corner of the Hyde to lightly draw the straight line on the lower crown molding caulking seam carefully after fresh paint is applied.  Do about two to three feet at a time, while cutting in with the brush, with the blade, then rag off the blade corner and proceed some more.  If you are right handed work left to right, left handed work right to left.  

There's the chance the previous painter buggered up the seam line - just make it look better than before is all I can offer there.

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My shop is in the basement, which came with cream yellow walls when I bought the house.  Works very nicely to mellow LED lighting.  I am moving to a new house in the nest few days (I feel your pain about trying to sell and repurchase in this crazy market!) and plan to paint the sane color in my new (bigger) basement shop.

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After 5 months of procrastinating (well, to be fair, we were mostly working outside) I finally committed to a colour for the utility room (furnace/storage/laundry/freezer).

My husband showed a microsecond of interest, looked at the chip, and said, in a voice totally devoid of life;

"It took you that long to settle on grey?"

It is NOT grey! It's green...ish...griege...(Behr Sawgrass).

The attached photo doesn't show the green tint either. :( It will be interesting to see what the colour looks like in the windowless space, when we're done.

If it looks entirely grey, that's okay too. We're just painting over the 1970s cheap, dark, wood wall paneling. Anything will look cleaner and brighter!

 

behr-n350-2-sawgrass-paint-color-match-2.jpg

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15 hours ago, Rue said:

After 5 months of procrastinating (well, to be fair, we were mostly working outside) I finally committed to a colour for the utility room (furnace/storage/laundry/freezer).

My husband showed a microsecond of interest, looked at the chip, and said, in a voice totally devoid of life;

"It took you that long to settle on grey?"

It is NOT grey! It's green...ish...griege...(Behr Sawgrass).

The attached photo doesn't show the green tint either. :( It will be interesting to see what the colour looks like in the windowless space, when we're done.

If it looks entirely grey, that's okay too. We're just painting over the 1970s cheap, dark, wood wall paneling. Anything will look cleaner and brighter!

 

 

:lol:

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17 hours ago, Rue said:

After 5 months of procrastinating (well, to be fair, we were mostly working outside) I finally committed to a colour for the utility room (furnace/storage/laundry/freezer).

My husband showed a microsecond of interest, looked at the chip, and said, in a voice totally devoid of life;

"It took you that long to settle on grey?"

It is NOT grey! It's green...ish...griege...(Behr Sawgrass).

The attached photo doesn't show the green tint either. :( It will be interesting to see what the colour looks like in the windowless space, when we're done.

If it looks entirely grey, that's okay too. We're just painting over the 1970s cheap, dark, wood wall paneling. Anything will look cleaner and brighter!

 

behr-n350-2-sawgrass-paint-color-match-2.jpg

This is the exact color we used in our great room in our house.  There is a nuanced sophistication and cleanliness to this color that makes it stand out from white and actual grey.  Excellent pick.

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2 hours ago, Wood Butcher said:

This has nothing to do with paint, but I was wondering if your tortoise has gone to bed for the winter yet? How do you prepare for it?

 

F4CACBC1-46C5-450F-932E-932A954C0152.jpeg

Good question.

She's only 6 years old, and I decided (for now at least), not to artificially brumate.

Our house gets quite cold at night during the winters, plus she gets natural light coming in from the window (which is still obvious despite her timed lightning schedule), which mimics (more or less) what she might experience if she were in her native environment. I also try to maintain a wet/dry humidity regime.

But if I ever decide I have to brumate, I'll stick her in the fridge for the winter...

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  • 1 month later...

Painting is all done. It feels good to be working in the shop after a 4 month break. Even if it’s just moving things around and trying to get organized while doing a main level reno. The color is called polished pearl by Behr if anyone cares. It reminded me of when paper in old books starts to yellow with age. 
 

This pic is begging to be turned into a meme, just not sure what. :P

A3F0F496-1EDA-4F72-BEBB-3567D5799621.thumb.jpeg.090d1d4e20aae0cca18aa1e6a08ce46e.jpeg

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Thanks for the update. Another "polished pearl" of knowledge! ^_^

I imagine the space is nice and cheery now...which is more than I can say for the unfortunate guy under the piano!

BTW...you're ahead of us. I have one more wall to paint...hopefully before Xmas!

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Many years ago, I had a basement windowless shop. The walls were painted a bright white which went a long way to cut through the gloom; after a while, I felt I needed to improve the view so I went to my local paint & wallpaper store and purchased a large wall photo wall poster showing the Amalfi coast. My everyday mood was greatly enhanced!

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