Mat Roop Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 So when you do internal violin repairs like bass bars, cleats on old darkened violins, do you darken the new repair wood, and what is the best solution? tea bags? dirt? chalk dust? water colors? I've never really been happy with anything I've tried. Suggestions?... Thanks, Mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B. Duckworth Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 I recently made a stain by placing a single, new, 4 OOOO steel wool pad in 6 oz of white vinegar for 3 days, after decanting the liquor I dipped new test wood into the solution, at first it just appeared to be wet, 30 minutes later the wood was sigmificantly darker. Proceed with caution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Roop Posted July 13, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 Thanks B. ... Yes, on a separate piece of wood its easy to stain and get results, but in reality the problem is that the bar or cleat is carved after installation and one needs to be careful to not stain the original aged wood, otherwise it really looks like c.... ... so just wondering what do others do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wood Butcher Posted July 13, 2021 Report Share Posted July 13, 2021 2 hours ago, B. Duckworth said: I recently made a stain by placing a single, new, 4 OOOO steel wool pad in 6 oz of white vinegar for 3 days, after decanting the liquor I dipped new test wood into the solution, at first it just appeared to be wet, 30 minutes later the wood was sigmificantly darker. Proceed with caution. Not sure that applying acidic solutions with iron in is a good idea. Might go the right colour to begin with, but what happens over time to the repairs? Cleats, for example, are thin, so the acid could eventually penetrate through the wood, and affect the glue bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B. Duckworth Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 1 hour ago, Wood Butcher said: Not sure that applying acidic solutions with iron in is a good idea. Might go the right colour to begin with, but what happens over time to the repairs? Cleats, for example, are thin, so the acid could eventually penetrate through the wood, and affect the glue bond. good point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strad O Various Jr. Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 Sounds like a solution searching for a problem, just leave it alone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Roop Posted July 14, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 So Strad O, when you put a new bass bar in an old violin with a dark interior you leave the new white bass bar white? I've done that many times, but because you can easily see the bar at the f hole, to me it sticks out like a sore thumb. But... if that is considered good practice, I'm all in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle duke Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 I'm thinking there's two ways - 1. nothing ventured, nothing gained. 2. if the work doesn't make something work better then I won't proceed with the thinking of such an idea. Doesn't matter the subject. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Allen Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 1 hour ago, Mat Roop said: So Strad O, when you put a new bass bar in an old violin with a dark interior you leave the new white bass bar white? I've done that many times, but because you can easily see the bar at the f hole, to me it sticks out like a sore thumb. But... if that is considered good practice, I'm all in! You could use darker wood to begin with? I've made bass bars with spruce that was as dark as most old interiors and they blended in nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiddleDoug Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 I use a weak Sodium Nitrite solution to "age" wood. This goes on colorless, and over an hour or so, darkens slightly. I make my own, but you can buy it as this: https://www.cremonatools.com/joha-water-stain-liquid-421-antique-stain-250ml.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arglebargle Posted July 14, 2021 Report Share Posted July 14, 2021 Dry pigments, dusted on, and rubbed off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nathan slobodkin Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 12 hours ago, arglebargle said: Dry pigments, dusted on, and rubbed off. Same. The dead white of new wood looks bad but exactly color matching interior repairs doesn't concern me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat Roop Posted July 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 Thanks everyone... looks like dry brown chalk dust is where I'm headed! I have some black chalk dust I use for slippy ebony pegs, works pretty good on the bass bar, but it is just a bit gray, So I'll get some dark brown chalk & try that. ....Cheers, Mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arglebargle Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 I have a few of jars of unknown origin that I've used for a loooong time. Ocher, yellow, burnt sienna, "brown", I really don't know exactly what they are, but when mixed right they give me the look of a filthy, old violin interior. A slightly different mix gives the bridge an aged look as well. Hans Nebel threw in a little of the contents of a vacuum cleaner bag, if I recall correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Dorsey Posted July 15, 2021 Report Share Posted July 15, 2021 4 hours ago, arglebargle said: ...Hans Nebel threw in a little of the contents of a vacuum cleaner bag... He told me to use the ashes from my barbeque grill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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