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Jerome Thibouville Lamy Violin I Bought Today


DonTen
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First off I don't know how to play but I always wanted to learn. Anyway I was at a yard sale and picked this up. I know nothing about violins and bought it. It came with 2 bows that need work. The violin looks to only need strings. I see no cracks or other damage to it. It's overall length is 23 1/2" the body is about 14". It's dirty but looks solid. From google searching I know it was made buy Jerome Thibouville Lamy because of the JTL label. What do you guys think?

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It will need a good deal more than just strings. Aside from an impressive layer of crud, it will certainly need a fairly complete set up, a tailgut, a properly fit bridge and pegs. And I would be concerned with what appears to be a damaged area on the back in the soundpost area. Before doing anything further, get it looked at by a knowledgeable violin repair person. If you tell us where you are the members here can probably suggest someone who can help you.

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1 hour ago, stringcheese said:

It will need a good deal more than just strings. Aside from an impressive layer of crud, it will certainly need a fairly complete set up, a tailgut, a properly fit bridge and pegs. And I would be concerned with what appears to be a damaged area on the back in the soundpost area. Before doing anything further, get it looked at by a knowledgeable violin repair person. If you tell us where you are the members here can probably suggest someone who can help you.

Stringcheese is right. Although To me that area on the back looks like remnants of a sticky tape or something like that, most likely superficial. Depending on whom you go to and what kind of fittings/service you choose, getting this violin to playable condition may still cost upwards of $400~$800. Old violins like this may have many hidden problems which may show themselves along the way. Definitely take it to a violin shop, and they will tell you what would be the best option. In my opinion, if you are starting from scratch, it is probably the best practice to get a new student violin from a local violin shop. They costs about the same and you won't need to worry about any condition issues.

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13 minutes ago, W.C. said:

Stringcheese is right. Although To me that area on the back looks like remnants of a sticky tape or something like that, most likely superficial. Depending on whom you go to and what kind of fittings/service you choose, getting this violin to playable condition may still cost upwards of $400~$800. Old violins like this may have many hidden problems which may show themselves along the way. Definitely take it to a violin shop, and they will tell you what would be the best option. In my opinion, if you are starting from scratch, it is probably the best practice to get a new student violin from a local violin shop. They costs about the same and you won't need to worry about any condition issues.

Yes the area on the back is what looks like something gooey that got on the finish and there is no damage to the wood. Thanks guys. 

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Please show photographs of the bows, also, some better photographs of the violin would help. At the beginning of the section there is a guide to taking meaningful photographs of an instrument.

JTL Was a respected company but they made a tremendous variety of instruments, from firewood on up. But just saying, “JTL,” is rather like saying, “Chevrolet.”

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1 minute ago, PhilipKT said:

Please show photographs of the bows, also, some better photographs of the violin would help. At the beginning of the section there is a guide to taking meaningful photographs of an instrument.

JTL Was a respected company but they made a tremendous variety of instruments, from firewood on up. But just saying, “JTL,” is rather like saying, “Chevrolet.”

Also, something is stamped On the underside of one of the bridges. Sometimes the maker of the bridge signs and dates it, so there may be some information there that might be of interest to you.

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IMO it looks like a nicer JTL than the ones I generally see which are mostly Medio Finos.  Decent wood on the back and the scroll is better than the usual.  The gunk on the back, if that's all it is, can hopefully be removed.   I'm wondering why it's there though, it's a one piece back so nobody tried to glue a separated back seam. 

It could be from the case, if it sat for decades in a warm environment the back may have stuck to the case lining.  I had a fiddle like that once named Fuzzy :) 

I agree the tailpiece is cool!  And please post photos of the bows. 

 

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Good catch!  IMHO, a better quality circa 1900 French trade-violin in need of a full set-up, including a tailgut and .probably either a peg-job with spiral bushings, or Wittner fine-tune pegs.  The Wittners would be cheaper.  :)

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Could we get a close up of the back, something funny looking there. And, Congratulations, you win the new guy "I'm not an idiot door prize" by successfully reading and interpreting the instructions written by Rue on how to photograph a violin for presentation, thanks! You don't win anything other than me pointing it out, but hey we're violin people and we take what we can get :lol:

edit, love that couch too, awesome green color, lovely patina, original fasteners, very nice

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Your JTL 'Copie de Michel Deconeti' would have been made in a factory in Mirecourt, France. In catalogues the model was listed as a 'violon imitation vieux',  i.e. made to look old or 'antiqued'. Providing there are no hidden nasties, once cleaned and properly set up, it could make a very nice playable instrument.

These are links to the JTL catalogues  of 1901 (see page 54) and 1919 (see page 8) and it is likely that your violin was made sometime in this period.

https://www.luthiers-mirecourt.com/thibouville1901_1.htm

https://www.luthiers-mirecourt.com/thibouville1919.htm

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34 minutes ago, PhilipKT said:

Sadly, the bows are tomato sticks.

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But the violin is a winner! please provide ample “after”photos once the fixup is complete.

How would you know a bow is a tomato stick unless you play it?

If you take 10 random old Abeillewood bows 1 will be a tomato stick and 1 will be excellent. The other 8 will be somewhere in between.

 

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Well one clearly looks like the button was chewed on by a dog the other the head broke off and reglued....so clearly tomato stakes.  If they were both absolutely perfect to begin with you might recoup the cost of a rehair. 

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2 hours ago, sospiri said:

How would you know a bow is a tomato stick unless you play it?

If you take 10 random old Abeillewood bows 1 will be a tomato stick and 1 will be excellent. The other 8 will be somewhere in between.

 

You are absolutely right, I won’t know until I spend money to restore them, and then spend money to put fresh hair on them and then play it… So I am making a slight assumption, but I can live with it.

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3 hours ago, PhilipKT said:

You are absolutely right, I won’t know until I spend money to restore them, and then spend money to put fresh hair on them and then play it… So I am making a slight assumption, but I can live with it.

You can weigh the sticks. Some, without hair, frog or winding/lapping are 40 grams and stiff. Ask Jay to test them and decide which ones to rehair. 

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5 hours ago, Jeny Mahon said:

More close up photos of the back on behalf of the OP.   

I hate to say it but do any of you see what looks like a post crack on the back?  :( 

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Yes after a better look it does have a crack in the back. I just can't believe someone would slather that goop on it for a fix. Crappy job. Any opinions on fixing the back? I can only post a couple times a day which kind of sucks. It's the same with PM's I can only send 2 a day. The restrictions really hinder a new person here. These are better pics.

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10 hours ago, Jeny Mahon said:

More close up photos of the back on behalf of the OP.   

I hate to say it but do any of you see what looks like a post crack on the back?  :( 

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Thanks, I believe that to be just the varnish. The way the light was reflecting made it look like a concave divet like someone had launched a golf ball off it.

I'd say overall nice find with a little attention.

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