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Violin.. Any value more then a cup of coffee??


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16 hours ago, Delabo said:

Me-thinks it would be more correct to say that you strongly helped popularize the term "markie", as its origin seems to predate  your  presence here. :)

It would appear that the earliest known use on this forum of "markie"  can be attributed to Jacob from South Africa in 2004.

https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/search/&q=markie&page=17&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy

A 30 second Google search reveals the term Markie was used 6 days earlier on violinist.com 

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17 hours ago, Rachell66 said:

Hi 

So i went to pick up the violin and it looks even better than in the photos. The arch isn't visible either. When i saw it.. I was like.... Come to mama!! It needs a tiny bit of glueing at the seams. Just.. My luthier said the bow wasn't worth rehairing?? Do you think it is? 

Although it is "The usual" it looks very nice. 

The bow is also "The usual" and may have come with the violin. It has been played a lot, but  like the violin,  it appears well looked after.

Does it have enough hair for you too tell if it plays well or not?

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19 hours ago, Rachell66 said:

Hi 

So i went to pick up the violin and it looks even better than in the photos. The arch isn't visible either. When i saw it.. I was like.... Come to mama!! It needs a tiny bit of glueing at the seams. Just.. My luthier said the bow wasn't worth rehairing?? Do you think it is? 

Of course. At the minimum, that bow would sell around here for $3-400, considerably more if it’s silver(which it isn’t)

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2 hours ago, PhilipKT said:

Of course. At the minimum, that bow would sell around here for $3-400, considerably more if it’s silver(which it isn’t)

Philip you and I could make a fortune buying Abeillewood bows for £10 on ebay and selling them in Texas for silly money.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 3/4/2021 at 12:28 PM, sospiri said:

Although it is "The usual" it looks very nice. 

The bow is also "The usual" and may have come with the violin. It has been played a lot, but  like the violin,  it appears well looked after.

Does it have enough hair for you too tell if it plays well or not?

It has about 6 hairs.. So.. Not really 

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On 3/21/2021 at 10:59 PM, sospiri said:

I can see more than 6. Have you tried it?

I have, it's hard to say as the screw is stuck, it doesn't budge! I can't tighten the hair at all

The seller said the bow was as valuable as the violin. She claims it's a good bow. 

My luthier.. Didnt think it was worth the repair

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6 hours ago, Rachell66 said:

I have, it's hard to say as the screw is stuck, it doesn't budge! I can't tighten the hair at all

The seller said the bow was as valuable as the violin. She claims it's a good bow. 

My luthier.. Didnt think it was worth the repair

The screw is rusted to the eyelet.

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WD40...

Work in tiny amounts, as needed. Depending on how badly it's rusted, it should work, either right away, or after some time.

Once you have it apart you can reassess.

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45 minutes ago, Rue said:

WD40...

Work in tiny amounts, as needed. Depending on how badly it's rusted, it should work, either right away, or after some time.

Once you have it apart you can reassess.

Instead of WD-40, I would recommend CLP. I don’t know what the civilian name is, but in the military that was an acronym For, “cleaner lubricant protectant” and it works better than WD-40, and is much more effective at loosening the kind of problem that you have.

Oh, I think the commercial name is “breakfree”

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I won't use any of this. When the adjuster threat starts to corrode it will swell and cause easily tiny (and invisible at first sight) cracks at the end of the stick. Once the WD-40 or similar oil gets into these cracks, and it's getting easily there, it will make it impossible to reglue them and one can have a hard time to wash it out again.

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1 hour ago, PhilipKT said:

Instead of WD-40, I would recommend CLP. I don’t know what the civilian name is, but in the military that was an acronym For, “cleaner lubricant protectant” and it works better than WD-40, and is much more effective at loosening the kind of problem that you have.

Oh, I think the commercial name is “breakfree”

I haven't heard of CLP/Breakfree.

I have WD40 on hand. Most people do?

So...buy something new? Use what's in the cupboard? How much should one spend on a product for the 0.5 ml (or less) needed?

1 minute ago, Blank face said:

I won't use any of this. When the adjuster threat starts to corrode it will swell and cause easily tiny (and invisible at first sight) cracks at the end of the stick. Once the WD-40 or similar oil gets into these cracks, and it's getting easily there, it will make it impossible to reglue them and one can have a hard time to wash it out again.

So? What would you use to see if the screw can be worked loose? Especially if this is likely a tomato stick?

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Just now, Blank face said:

Here is an older but still valid and valuable thread about how to manage such problems. Nothing for a DIY attempt though.

 

Okay! Never mind! Answered! ^_^

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9 minutes ago, Rue said:

So? What would you use to see if the screw can be worked loose? Especially if this is likely a tomato stick?

A valuable bow I would treat like in the thread I linked above, and a tomatoe stick...now, just use it as a tomatoe stick. A repair is quite useless anyway.

You could try to wrap a rag around the adjuster button, grab it with pincers, hold the frog with a hard grip (and I mean hard) in the other hand and try to rock and turn the adjuster very carefully with the pincers. In maybe 2 or 3 out of 10 cases this might work, in the other 8 it breaks and you can put it to waste.

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3 hours ago, Rachell66 said:

So... What to do? 

Adjustable wrenches. The frog mustn't move, this can also crack the stick. Protect the frog from damage with paper. Try and save the adjuster too.

The stick is probably worth saving because some of these abeillewood bows play nicely. Some are tomato sticks and some are in between.

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If you managed to get the adjuster screw more or less savely out of the eyelet and stick, it's nonetheless very probable that there will be one or two of the tiny cracks I mentioned. Now if they are still clean,  they can be fixed with liquid superglue, wrapping a string or rubber band around the stick. At a better bow this should be secured with a bushing or an inlaid ring, but for cheaper bows it might be enough to glue them. Now one can free the adjuster screw and eylet from rust using WD-40, Coca Cola or whatever, also free the drilled hole of the stick from rust or other residues with a needle or something alike.

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