Starting my first Cello.


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2 hours ago, David Burgess said:

Looks like you're pretty good with a roughing gouge. The back is showing lots of longer continuous strokes. And you know how to set your light to see what you're doing.

Thanks. I try to keep the trace of gouge long and constant as much as possible(really tough compare to violin, though) because I was taught this way and I think it helps me to check whether I'm doing okay with the shape of arching even though it is just roughing-phase. someone says there's no need for that and just wanted to look decent to others.... well..;) 

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Nice pictures !

"....

- But where is the Feuermann in 2020? How does it sound? 

- Here it is

1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bec-8vaKvA 

2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPegnyLDBXI

3.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKjNYE99U5g

4. 

 

"

 

;-)

 

David

 

Cello #1 https://youtu.be/Ik1T6smpTFc
Cello #2 : https://youtu.be/rBX_9LnsoQM

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On 12/18/2020 at 10:28 PM, David A.T. said:

Nice pictures !

"....

- But where is the Feuermann in 2020? How does it sound? 

- Here it is

1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0bec-8vaKvA 

2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPegnyLDBXI

3.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKjNYE99U5g

4. 

 

"

 

;-)

 

you're the best!

I saw the article that Feuermann was loaned to her but I never thought to try to find her recording. what a laziness..

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21 hours ago, Kyle Lee said:

you're the best!

I saw the article that Feuermann was loaned to her but I never thought to try to find her recording. what a laziness..

hehe,

I did not look for the records. Just after your post, Youtube proposed to me her links, and then I noticed the Strad. maybe big Brother is watching my center of interest ;-) 

These are the best records to look in detail this instrument.

David
Cello #1 https://youtu.be/Ik1T6smpTFc
Cello #2 : https://youtu.be/rBX_9LnsoQM

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Excuse me for interupting with a close related theme. 

Strobel at his Cello making book has a varnish recipe with resin and walnut oil. He just have a reference in his other books.

Can anyone share the recipe/process since I have only his violin making book? 

I would be interested to hear your ground/vanishing plans. Thank you! 

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On 12/30/2020 at 7:38 AM, David A.T. said:

 It Looks Very Nice so far!

The top volute is régular, the button is nice...

I just noticed that maybe the pegbox side walls still look a bit too thick. But maybe it is just the picture - or the model you follow. 

David.

Cello #1 https://youtu.be/Ik1T6smpTFc
Cello #2 : https://youtu.be/rBX_9LnsoQM

 

Thanks!

Yes, there must be distortion or exaggeration of the picture... Thickness of the pegbox wall is alreay 8mm ca. which is, as far as I know, within the standard measurement.

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I'm following this thread. I always love looking at how an instrument slowly grows. You should consider opening a bench thread on the "contemporary makers" forum, although if you are looking for answers or opinions, you get more here. 

I like the scroll, but for some reason, the bevel on the edge of the scroll (I hope my terminology is correct) seems rather prominent and especially in the smaller turn and eye makes the work look a bit clunky. But it may also just be the picture, the light or the fact that it isn't varnished yet that cause this slight (!) impression.

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21 hours ago, baroquecello said:

I'm following this thread. I always love looking at how an instrument slowly grows. You should consider opening a bench thread on the "contemporary makers" forum, although if you are looking for answers or opinions, you get more here. 

I like the scroll, but for some reason, the bevel on the edge of the scroll (I hope my terminology is correct) seems rather prominent and especially in the smaller turn and eye makes the work look a bit clunky. But it may also just be the picture, the light or the fact that it isn't varnished yet that cause this slight (!) impression.

when you said bevel, I guess you meant chamfer. It seems a bit thick?? hm... I though opposite,,B) normally the width of the chamfer (of cello) is around 2mm~3mm and I chose the minimum, 2mm.

maybe it is the picture, like you said. I don't know anything about photograph. don't know how to get it without distortions:wacko:

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  • 3 months later...

It has been a long time since my last post

but work is still going even though it's very slow..

KakaoTalk_20210404_112147877_01.thumb.jpg.40c3fbd37b502b92acee4813611269ae.jpgKakaoTalk_20210404_112147877_04.thumb.jpg.f3a79992eb75938850569a99b3f485b8.jpg

KakaoTalk_20210404_112147877_02.thumb.jpg.91d7515867fede5a784049479449a897.jpgKakaoTalk_20210404_112147877_03.thumb.jpg.ced183ffdaf9f3511a8f76472d57a400.jpg

4 corners of belly

KakaoTalk_20210404_112147877_06.thumb.jpg.86fe9f6efd2554ab2f8173c1069683af.jpgKakaoTalk_20210404_112147877_07.thumb.jpg.6581654edfb6d09fe92d63b1d7f123c1.jpg

KakaoTalk_20210404_112147877_05.thumb.jpg.5e6d90f1fce12496c61abf5381717f71.jpgKakaoTalk_20210404_112147877_08.thumb.jpg.e8b89e2741f95b4d15c6b4dde211ca77.jpg

4 of back

 

KakaoTalk_20210404_112147877_10.thumb.jpg.b8f93e60b39fb051043c6daa6d8da796.jpgKakaoTalk_20210404_112147877_09.thumb.jpg.b391215b86ba452097b94b54fc84b038.jpg

archings are also finished

now I'm graduating the thickness of them and laying f-holes

KakaoTalk_20210404_112147877.thumb.jpg.10e1820717d89f724cd191104a6e4e90.jpg

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Nice corners, but the purfling tip goes too much to the center of the corner, the Stradivarian style would like it with a slight deviation, pointing to a quarter rather than in the middle. Of course it is not mandatory to follow it, even if as you did them they look a little static from a graphic point of view, with the deviation they would have gained some dynamics.

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16 minutes ago, Davide Sora said:

Nice corners, but the purfling tip goes too much to the center of the corner, the Stradivarian style would like it with a slight deviation, pointing to a quarter rather than in the middle. Of course it is not mandatory to follow it, even if as you did them they look a little static from a graphic point of view, with the deviation they would have gained some dynamics.

Thanks for the advice~! 

yes, I was aware of that and wanted to make them as you mentioned but they(purflings and my hands) always won't listen to my instruction haha....

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30 minutes ago, Kyle Lee said:

Thanks for the advice~! 

yes, I was aware of that and wanted to make them as you mentioned but they(purflings and my hands) always won't listen to my instruction haha....

:D

You probably don't have to cut the tip following the tracing of the purfling cutter, otherwise it will always point in the middle.

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On 12/9/2020 at 6:15 PM, Kyle Lee said:

What a good experience! I hope I get a good result too but It already starts to resemble me not DeMunck :angry: any way to alleviate this "not a fat bass" problem?

I am not sure what you might do to increase the bass on this cello although in general I feel you can go slightly less stiff on plates which will have a smaller transverse distance to span. In the future however I think it would be worth trying to make another one from  willow instead of maple as that usually gives a less strident tone and sounds "fatter" to most people.

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On 12/30/2020 at 1:38 AM, David A.T. said:

 It Looks Very Nice so far!

The top volute is régular, the button is nice...

I just noticed that maybe the pegbox side walls still look a bit too thick. But maybe it is just the picture - or the model you follow. 

David.

Cello #1 https://youtu.be/Ik1T6smpTFc
Cello #2 : https://youtu.be/rBX_9LnsoQM

 

 

 

Kyle,

I agree with David on this. You will want to consider the balance between the over all width of the pegbox and the width of the walls. On a narrow cello I would tend to make the pegbox slightly narrow, which it looks like you have done, but then would make the walls perhaps slightly lighter looking as well. 7.5 mm. or even 7 at the top of the pegbox wall is plenty strong enough and may look nicer.

It is good for students to keep minimum measurements in mind on their first instruments but ultimately you will develop a feel for what looks best while not becoming too weak.

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56 minutes ago, nathan slobodkin said:

I am not sure what you might do to increase the bass on this cello although in general I feel you can go slightly less stiff on plates which will have a smaller transverse distance to span. In the future however I think it would be worth trying to make another one from  willow instead of maple as that usually gives a less strident tone and sounds "fatter" to most people.

I'm so interested in using other wood like one-piece willow for the back!! only if I can sell this one haha...

Anyway, for less stiffer plates, I don't know much how to do it other than making thinner plates and bass-bar but I'm kind of worried about wolf-tone which occurs more on cellos which have thin plates.:(

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51 minutes ago, nathan slobodkin said:

Kyle,

I agree with David on this. You will want to consider the balance between the over all width of the pegbox and the width of the walls. On a narrow cello I would tend to make the pegbox slightly narrow, which it looks like you have done, but then would make the walls perhaps slightly lighter looking as well. 7.5 mm. or even 7 at the top of the pegbox wall is plenty strong enough and may look nicer.

It is good for students to keep minimum measurements in mind on their first instruments but ultimately you will develop a feel for what looks best while not becoming too weak.

I felt the same way and now i'm modifying it to 7.5mm and I'll see how it looks like. thanks

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5 minutes ago, Kyle Lee said:

I'm so interested in using other wood like one-piece willow for the back!! only if I can sell this one haha...

Anyway, for less stiffer plates, I don't know much how to do it other than making thinner plates and bass-bar but I'm kind of worried about wolf-tone which occurs more on cellos which have thin plates.:(

By thinner I am talking about 0.1-0.2 thinner and only in the "lung" portions of the upper and lower bouts. While there are lots of reasons why cellos can have obnoxious wolf tones the ones related to graduation are often from making the areas around and below the FFs too thin or localized and abrupt thin spots made by mistake. I don't know if you will use a graduation map from the original or a pattern recommended by your school but I have found that the even graduations of the top plate recommended by Sacconi can be modified to very slightly thicker between the FFs and very slightly thinner in the lungs with good results.

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