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Nestor Vassiliou
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I made an outline of the P for which was made and used by Antonio Stradivari. I know Addie made templates of the P form as well as many others. His templates where so perfect that he even copied the wear on the recesses for the blocks. So I wanted to make one where these recesses were as "new" while still mainting the outline of the original P form. Also for clamping the blocks/ribs I replaced the holes which where originally used with wooden dowels and ropes as clamps, with something more modern which are rounded rectangular "holes". In my opinion the latter are more convenient for use with g or f clamps.

The pdf size is A3. But you can also print it in two A4 papers. There are online websites which split an a3 pdf into two a4. Just if you take this approach make sure that your printer supports borderless printing. Also for both methods you should disable any scaling or fit to page options, as that could potentially alter the dimensions of the form, when printed.  The dimensions used to scale the p form and to make the actual template are from ‘Stradivari’ by Stewart Pollens.

In a few weeks I will do the same process to make the templates for the g and the pg form as well as a few scrolls. FYI i used Fusion 360 and despite the fact that its a powerful software it still has its limitations. Not only that, but also the images used to make the outline could be distorted blurred etc. These are some of the reasons why my outline could be slightly different than the original p form. I tried to be as precise as possible, but do note that there probably is some slight deviation from the original and there will always be when working from pictures :(  Anyway I hope you find my template useful here's a dropbox link to the pdf https://www.dropbox.com/s/5v8csuh4to1axo7/Maestronet P forma.pdf?dl=0 and here's a rendering of the 3d model of this form. 

image.thumb.png.c9bd6589adb9c23ddde8869b32856865.png

 

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Why the fictional wood choice and cut outs?  Why ignore the markings?

You've drawn is very far removed from the actual P form.

The horizontal lines on the originals are meaningful and document the radius of the outer corner circles.  The large and small arcs on the originals document rib and reduce rib heights.

Why omit these details?

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On 9/30/2020 at 10:10 AM, David Beard said:

Why the fictional wood choice and cut outs?  Why ignore the markings?

You've drawn is very far removed from the actual P form.

The horizontal lines on the originals are meaningful and document the radius of the outer corner circles.  The large and small arcs on the originals document rib and reduce rib heights.

Why omit these details?

The outline I am pretty sure its spot on, since I used Addie's template to trace my own and a scaled photo of the p form. The reason why I made it is because Addie's copy of the p form is so spot on that he even copied the damage on the recesses for the blocks. So I made practically the same outline just fixed the corner block recesses.

I did this because it would help my work and I uploaded it for free because it might help somebody elses work too. I don't think I forced you to download it, or anyone for that matter, nor did I ask for money. You are more than welcome to not use it. In fact don't  ;)

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On 9/29/2020 at 11:37 PM, Mike B said:

Would you be willing to share the Fusion 360 drawing? I'd love to CNC one this weekend. I'll post the results if it works out!

-Mike

Yeah definetely I will upload it to dropbox and share the link here in a few minutes. I would be very curious to see how it wil turn out on a cnc so yes please do share your results :)

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5 hours ago, Nestorvass said:

The outline I am pretty sure its spot on, since I used Addie's template to trace my own and a scaled photo of the p form. The reason why I made it is because Addie's copy of the p form is so spot on that he even copied the damage on the recesses for the blocks. So I made practically the same outline just fixed the corner block recesses.

I did this because it would help my work and I uploaded it for free because it might help somebody elses work too. I don't think I forced you to download it, or anyone for that matter, nor did I ask for money. You are more than welcome to not use it. In fact don't  ;)

Yes, of course you're right.  I didn't respond well.  Perhaps I'm jealous of the quality and good points of the work you put forward, but wish it had captured the details that matter to me.

Cheers to you.

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3 minutes ago, David Beard said:

Yes, of course you're right.  I didn't respond well.  Perhaps I'm jealous of the quality and good points of the work you put forward, but wish it had captured the details that matter to me.

Cheers to you.

Its fine. I didn't know which details are important. I've seen other templates and I thought all that is required to make the form is the template I made. Simply cut the outline make sure the edges are square and that's it. Are the markings you mentioned necessary to make the form or just for information? Serious question because I would like to know if I left something out which is important to make the mold properly.

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The markings are interesting for historical perspective and researching.

The two arcs on all Cremona molds, and the horizontal lines from the corner blocks were also functional and part of the historical use of the molds.

The two arcs give the intented rib heights. The larger arc gives rib height and therefore also block height for all but the top block.  The smaller arc gives that.

The two lines between each pair of corner blocks have several functions. 1) the help you keep the molds integrity when you need to refresh or repair the block cut outs.  2) the distance between the lines not only sets the length of the block, but also is the radius of the outer corner circle used in the mold design. (Though you don't have to use this radius in shaping your corner blocks). 3) the lines give the planned corner level.

 

 

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3 minutes ago, David Beard said:

The markings are interesting for historical perspective and researching.

The two arcs on all Cremona molds, and the horizontal lines from the corner blocks were also functional and part of the historical use of the molds.

The two arcs give the intented rib heights. The larger arc gives rib height and therefore also block height for all but the top block.  The smaller arc gives that.

The two lines between each pair of corner blocks have several functions. 1) the help you keep the molds integrity when you need to refresh or repair the block cut outs.  2) the distance between the lines not only sets the length of the block, but also is the radius of the outer corner circle used in the mold design. (Though you don't have to use this radius in shaping your corner blocks). 3) the lines give the planned corner level.

 

 

I wasn't aware of that Addie's templates have these arcs so if someone wants to refer to these arcs he can print them and use them to take these measurements with callipers or something equivalent. The template was kind of put together to be cut out glued on the mold's material.  In my opinion if one wants to have these arcs and lines on the form,it would be more accurate to print mine to make the mold and then print Addie's to take the measurements off these arcs and then trace them on the newly made form. I printed both Addie's form and mine and they allign perfectly, aside from the recesses for the blocks ofcourse which is why I made this form in the first place. So his markings will fit mine perfectly. 

Now that I know about these arcs I will make sure to put them on when I make the pg and g form, because I will upload those as well eventually. Perhaps when I do I will take some time to make a second version of the p form where these arcs/ lines will be included :)

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