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ffraley

What is (not) sorth fixing?

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It's an economic and personal question.

Do I want to do this work for free?

Will it pay enough that I want to do this work for the pay?

Only you can answer these.

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59 minutes ago, Rue said:

So far, all I have for options are:

1.  Have it repaired by a pro.

2. Throw it out.

Or an option like me - if he were in my neck of the woods and could deliver I'd do it for like 80.00 bucks or so.   

  A soundpost setting tool can be made with a one gallon paint can wire handle - just sharpen one end of the wire and shape the other end so that it could pull a post into position.  Wrap the wire with a layer of scotch tape and practice not hitting the edges of the treble side soundhole.  Using a thin slip of wood measuring 7mm wide x 2mm thick x 6-7 inches long  to help set through the bass side soundhole it's a cheap {free} method of tooling for soundpost setting.

  If one can take a peek through the endpin hole and not be able to count grainlines of spruce in the soundpost area then stop - this won't turn out as good as compared to someone who can actually see inside clearly.  

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All replies appreciated

jacobsaunders - I get the impression the violin would not be worth the cost of paid repairs when completed, but I will check with a local luthier and price it out before starting anything myself. Could you (or anyone) point me to a link showing prices for one fully restored? What would be involved in restoring as opposed to a setup and repairing the obvious - nut, bridge, and seams? I'm learning a lot in this thread.

Baroquecello - I agree with the bow. I have a 4 month old setter pup who in 10 seconds ripped the rubber off a new shoulder rest this morning, so have alternate uses for the bow 8-{

Deans - first- PPFFFFFFTTTTT, I have at least 12 hairs in my mustache that are not gray yet and manage 12K steps every day I work. Second, I do want one to tinker with so this, or another just like it, will be that. I have a couple of ex-rental student models to use until I play well enough to use all my fingers in first and second positions. The process is as much fun as the result.

David - The nut is the one thing I suspect I may just bite the bullet on. Since there is a blank in the case I may as well have a go at it first, though. The lower block, at least at the button hole, is not split. 

(Update after lunch - based on my texted description it was passed to an apprentice/helper who guesstimated <$100 for 2 small seam repairs, nut, bridge, reset existing post and installing my strings. I may take her up on it and plan on paying more like $125. She's done set-up work on my two I play, I trust her and her boss. But then I have to buy another to practice on and I'm running out of room)

This was for sale on the Cleveland Craigslist @$29 for quite a while. I bought it thinking of it as a learning platform. Now that I know what I am looking at, I see at least half a dozen more on Shopgoodwill today that will probably sell for <$150. If someone can point me to a better one to learn on, I'm certainly willing to listen

Now, be nice.

 

Fred

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1 hour ago, Rue said:

LOL...you are all afraid of commitment! :D

Some of the membership has good cause, but lunacy is a subject for another thread.  sarcasm.gif.dfbf34d34d6efe78fa40bdbdea44d763.gif  :lol:

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1 hour ago, David Beard said:

It's an economic and personal question.

Do I want to do this work for free?

Will it pay enough that I want to do this work for the pay?

Only you can answer these.

With some of us here, who have other sources of income, the intangibles are the most important part of the pay.  It would be good for everyone to remember that M'netters are a rather diverse community, with differing goals (other than continually learning more about violins, of course).  :)

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I did mean making a commitment to verbalizing a "rule of thumb" to selecting an appropriate DIY violin.  I didn't mean committing to repairing low end violins for free.

For example: An appropriate violin for learning to do repairs on should have no intrinsic value as it is, nor be of significant value when repaired. A 2020 market value of $250 CDN, when repaired, should not be exceeded.

...best I can come up at the moment. Maybe I  can do better if I sleep on it...

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The soundpost blank I have is too thin, it will not fill from the end of the fingerboard to the edge of the pegbox opening. So I will be having that done, and the rest with it. Honestly, the missing nut in the listing photo was why I was interested. It told me it was hide glue, not one of the modern glues used on the newer instruments. But now I am searching for a project fiddle, hide glue, without cracks again. Running out of room. I'd still like to know what all would be involved in restoration as opposed to repair, though. No chance I could put the extra $650 in right now but for knowledge sake. 

Fred F

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On 9/17/2020 at 11:05 AM, ffraley said:

I am a 68 YO beginner

Same age here ffraley. I would never discourage anyone from doing anything they wanted, however to take a violin you just purchased and learn to be a luthier on it so you can play something might be a tall order. I bought a 200.00 chinese violin that I can play horrible on and it's not scarred from me trying to restore it or whatever. I also have some beautiful old violins I would never consider messing with and just owning them and enjoying their history is enough. It's just a little late in the day for me to think to be a luthier. That's something I should have started 55 years ago. 

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Oh, I'll never be a luthier. I mean no disrespect to them with a DIY project, I will never doubt they could do more and better. I wish I could afford to see what a professional could do with this.

Reality check:

I'm just going to go at it myself. I have violins to play. I bought another violin for less that the cost of a tank of gas to tinker with. I posted it in a knowledgeable forum to make sure it wasn't valuable.  If I goof I have not destroyed an artistic legacy. Gluing a seam, I should be able to handle. A bridge just gets replaced if I screw it up. Resetting a sound post seems within reach. If I screw up filing a nut blank I just don't glue it on - after looking at auction photos I've decided I couldn't make one uglier than some of these came with if I tried. I'll post here in a week or two whether I end up with an instrument, a bag of wood, or surrender and take it to the nice lady who set up my others. :-)

Fred

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On 9/18/2020 at 2:17 PM, Rue said:

So far, all I have for options are:

1.  Have it repaired by a pro.

2. Throw it out.

3. Make a funny YouTube video with it, like using it as a baseball bat or getting puppies to chew on it.

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Fox Mitchell makes YouTube videos!  Maybe he'd be up for putting on a comedy! :D

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A follow-up, it seems the bottom block was indeed cracked. I took the chin rest off and slid a very thin metal spade just into the edge along the seam separation, feeling for the end. About 3-4 cm from the end-pin the separation spread to meet the one on the other side and the treble side half of the end block fell away. The upside, I now feel free to remove the back entirely :-?

Fred F

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8 hours ago, ffraley said:

A follow-up, it seems the bottom block was indeed cracked. I took the chin rest off and slid a very thin metal spade just into the edge along the seam separation, feeling for the end. About 3-4 cm from the end-pin the separation spread to meet the one on the other side and the treble side half of the end block fell away. The upside, I now feel free to remove the back entirely :-?

Fred F

Better to remove the top.  :)

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