Amateur Maker

Drilling Peg Hole

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Some time ago I remember reading an article written by ? which said to drill the “G” peg hole lower or higher so as not to interfere with the “D” or “A” strings when tightening?

Is this a common practice?

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26 minutes ago, Amateur Maker said:

Some time ago I remember reading an article written by ? which said to drill the “G” peg hole lower or higher so as not to interfere with the “D” or “A” strings when tightening?

Is this a common practice?

The G peg hole is more or less in the center, vertically speaking. The E peg hole is what's important here, as it can easily intersect with the A or D string. The G peg is quite far out of the way from the A and D strings that you would have to place it quite high in order to interfere. 

The E peg hole should be placed slightly below center. Perhaps by 1.5mm or so, off the top of my head. 

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14 hours ago, Amateur Maker said:

Some time ago I remember reading an article written by ? which said to drill the “G” peg hole lower or higher so as not to interfere with the “D” or “A” strings when tightening?

Is this a common practice?

Are we talking about a violin, viola or cello here?

If it's a violin, there should be no reason the G peg would be anywhere near fouling the other strings.

On viola or cello, depending on the sweep of the pegbox, it may be necessary to drop the A, and raise the D to ensure string clearance over the other pegs. I would do this, rather than change the placement of the G to any great extent.

That said, you really need to draw the locations out to understand what is going on, and read up about this, before drilling any holes in the pegbox.

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4 hours ago, JacksonMaberry said:

Matt Noykos (tried to tag him, couldn't manage sadly) once posted a very useful diagram for mapping peghole placement so as to avoid peg-string interference. I bet you could find the thread! 

 

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9 hours ago, JacksonMaberry said:

Matt Noykos (tried to tag him, couldn't manage sadly) once posted a very useful diagram for mapping peghole placement so as to avoid peg-string interference. I bet you could find the thread! 

Found it.

You'd have to locate the G peg extremely high in the box to interfere; I usually locate it fairly high to reduce the break angle of the string over the nut, but still there's plenty of clearance.  The D and E are the critical ones.  I try to locate the A as low as possible (to reduce the chance of peghole cracking), so the D for me is the most critical.

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44 minutes ago, Don Noon said:

Found it.

You'd have to locate the G peg extremely high in the box to interfere; I usually locate it fairly high to reduce the break angle of the string over the nut, but still there's plenty of clearance.  The D and E are the critical ones.  I try to locate the A as low as possible (to reduce the chance of peghole cracking), so the D for me is the most critical.

Great, thanks for finding that for him.

38 minutes ago, Michael_Molnar said:

I keep a copy of this in my shop notebook. 

Me too, it's a very useful diagram. Many thanks to Matt!

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1 hour ago, Don Noon said:

Found it.

You'd have to locate the G peg extremely high in the box to interfere; I usually locate it fairly high to reduce the break angle of the string over the nut, but still there's plenty of clearance.  The D and E are the critical ones.  I try to locate the A as low as possible (to reduce the chance of peghole cracking), so the D for me is the most critical.

It really disturbs me when I see new instruments with A pegs that are too high. Like only 2mm or so above the peg hole of wood. 

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45 minutes ago, Nick Allen said:

It really disturbs me when I see new instruments with A pegs that are too high. Like only 2mm or so above the peg hole of wood. 

I normally put my A pegs a little higher than center. On the A peg (on a violin), and assuming that the grain runs horizontally), some of the stress runs directly into a heavily reinforced area, unless the scroll is a very unusual shape, or one carves out too much of the pegbox.

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25 minutes ago, David Burgess said:

I normally put my A pegs a little higher than center. On the A peg (on a violin), and assuming that the grain runs horizontally), some of the stress runs directly into a heavily reinforced area, unless the scroll is a very unusual shape, or one carves out too much of the pegbox.

Ah. I didn't consider run-out into the area behind the pegbox. 

Here's my layout that seems to work well for me. 

IMG_20200524_133221.jpg

IMG_20200524_133231.jpg

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23 hours ago, Don Noon said:

 I try to locate the A as low as possible (to reduce the chance of peghole cracking), so the D for me is the most critical.

20 hours ago, David Burgess said:

I normally put my A pegs a little higher than center. 

In looking at my layout, the A is a little higher than the center... because if it was lower, then the D string peg would have to be really, really low in order to get out of the way of the A string passing overhead, and might run out of room with the bottom of the pegbox.  So the D peg is what determines how low the layout can go.

 

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2 hours ago, Don Noon said:

In looking at my layout, the A is a little higher than the center... because if it was lower, then the D string peg would have to be really, really low in order to get out of the way of the A string passing overhead, and might run out of room with the bottom of the pegbox.  So the D peg is what determines how low the layout can go.

 

I mean. How low the D needs to be is all dependent on the angle that the strings travel over the nut into the pegbox, right? Anecdotally I've noticed that if the D and A are both centered, the strings usually clear with no problem. There isn't much room over the D, granted. Maybe 1 string thickness. 

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