Andreas Preuss

Best glue for ebony on a bow frog restoration?

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I am restoring a bow frog right now. Basically I think old fashioned hot glue is the best, but maybe there are some new ideas around I didn't hear about. In any case I hate to use crazy glue.

 

 

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Krazy Glue works well for a lot of things, but for finer repairs, it might be worth looking at some other cyanoacrylate options. You can find them in different viscosities to handle a range of uses.

I like CA for repairs because it’s not too difficult to reverse. I do know of several people who prefer G2 epoxy for repairs; it’s a very strong marine-grade adhesive that can be dyed (very nice for tortoise-shell repair). I like to use hot hide glue for violin  repair, but I would be concerned about using it on frogs because the moisture of the players’ hands could cause the repairs to lose strength. 

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9 hours ago, The Violin Beautiful said:

Krazy Glue works well for a lot of things, but for finer repairs, it might be worth looking at some other cyanoacrylate options. You can find them in different viscosities to handle a range of uses.

I like CA for repairs because it’s not too difficult to reverse. I do know of several people who prefer G2 epoxy for repairs; it’s a very strong marine-grade adhesive that can be dyed (very nice for tortoise-shell repair). I like to use hot hide glue for violin  repair, but I would be concerned about using it on frogs because the moisture of the players’ hands could cause the repairs to lose strength. 

Sorry to ask, what is 'CA'? (Cyanolite?)

 

To my experience cyanolite glues always make a visible line. On a frog where the surface needs to be polished at the end this will always show, no matter what you do. The same for epoxy type glues. 

Hide glue on the other hand is not resistant against moisture but treating it with formaldehyde makes it water proof. 

 

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1 hour ago, Andreas Preuss said:

Sorry to ask, what is 'CA'? (Cyanolite?)

 

To my experience cyanolite glues always make a visible line. On a frog where the surface needs to be polished at the end this will always show, no matter what you do. The same for epoxy type glues. 

Hide glue on the other hand is not resistant against moisture but treating it with formaldehyde makes it water proof. 

 

I would concur with the substitution of glutaraldehyde rather than formaldehyde ....it is evidently more effective and it kills you slower.

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1 hour ago, Andreas Preuss said:

Sorry to ask, what is 'CA'? (Cyanolite?)

 

To my experience cyanolite glues always make a visible line. On a frog where the surface needs to be polished at the end this will always show, no matter what you do. The same for epoxy type glues. 

Hide glue on the other hand is not resistant against moisture but treating it with formaldehyde makes it water proof. 

 

Sorry for any confusion, by CA I meant cyanoacrylate.

I haven’t tried the glutaraldehyde/formaldehyde treatment on hide glue, although I’ve heard good things about it.

I’ve had good results with cyanoacrylate glue and have been able to make the glue line disappear in most lights, but it’s by no means perfect. I’m in favor of any method that’s structurally sound AND reversible for future workmen. 

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59 minutes ago, Jerry Pasewicz said:

I would concur with the substitution of glutaraldehyde rather than formaldehyde ....it is evidently more effective and it kills you slower.

Thanks for your input, Jerry. Will try to get some.

 

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