Sucker for punishment.

[L.Colburn]

Because we are under strict stay at home orders and I’m bored, I just bought a $28 violin off eBay. It’s been very thoroughly painted with what looks like white semi-gloss enamel. Looking past all that glaring white paint, closing one eye, squinting the other, it actually looks like there might be a fairly nice older fiddle under all that mess.

My question is, do I start with sandpaper, a sharp blade or go straight for a stripper  - and if so, which one? I’ve only used strippers that require water to neutralize and that doesn’t sound like a smart option here... 

 Or???

My expectations are low but am trying to learn good practices for high quality work. 

Thanks!

 

[Amateur Aaron]

I'm a total novice when it comes to violins, but I've rescued some painted pieces of furniture with little more that a good card scraper.

[Mat Roop]

never dealt with a painted violin, but I would stay away from scraping and sandpaper... the old finish underneath will have patina and if you get into the wood at all, you will destroy the natural look. IMO use a stripper by slowly rubbing with a stripper dampened cloth... I would not "slather on and wait" ... slow and easy, small areas at a time.

My 2 cents worth.... Mat

[Rue]

We would also request pictures...

[L.Colburn]

12 minutes ago, Rue said:

We would also request pictures...

Always wondered about the legality of using sellers eBay photos so erring on the side of caution, I’ll post when I receive it.

Not that you can count on the historic integrity of accessories attached to a violin, nor the case it comes in BUT, the fine tuners are labeled Supertone and the leatherette case style all scream that this may be a Sears/Harmony from the 30’s.

Or not.

[jacobsaunders]

Try scrubbing it with soap & water first

[stringcheese]

Whatever you do, go cautiously until you know what's underneath. Sears sold just about anything and everything. I have Supertone labelled violin in the shop that's actually a very nice German trade instrument from the 1920s or '30s. Probably the best model in the catalog at the time. Maybe cost $30 when you could by one from them for 6 or 7 bucks. Some people would put a more prestigious label in it and sell it for more money.

[L.Colburn]

38 minutes ago, jacobsaunders said:

Try scrubbing it with soap & water first

(smacks forehead) yes! I’ll start with the scroll and see how it goes. Thanks for that!

[L.Colburn]

19 minutes ago, stringcheese said:

Whatever you do, go cautiously until you know what's underneath. Sears sold just about anything and everything. I have Supertone labelled violin in the shop that's actually a very nice German trade instrument from the 1920s or '30s. Probably the best model in the catalog at the time. Maybe cost $30 when you could by one from them for 6 or 7 bucks. Some people would put a more prestigious label in it and sell it for more money.

I have one of those 7 buck fiddles. Was my grandpa’s. It’s a JTL lEl Maestro” and sounds absolutely fantastic cross tuned!

I will definitely proceed with caution. Thank you!

[FiddleDoug]

You could always use a torch. That will take the paint right off!

 

[Rue]

4 minutes ago, FiddleDoug said:

You could always use a torch. That will take the paint right off!

 

A bit extreme for a first go, no?

Might be an option if Mystic gets to Round 5...

[L.Colburn]

9 minutes ago, FiddleDoug said:

You could always use a torch. That will take the paint right off!

 

Funny you should say that... that’s something I’ve actually done!

To a (luthier authenticate) VSO. It worked GREAT for stripping the paint and decals off and worked wonders at opening every single seam. I did a hand burnished linseed oil finish and then sewed it all back together with brass wire. It was quite lovely. Now it’s just bits and bobs as I’ve cannibalized it for wood.  

Think I’ll go for a bit gentler approach on this one. thankyouverymuch

[nathan slobodkin]

Best to test whatever you do in the area which will be hidden under the chin rest. 

[L.Colburn]

6 minutes ago, nathan slobodkin said:

Best to test whatever you do in the area which will be hidden under the chin rest. 

bless your heart, that’s just so precious! I know it would help if I could post photos but just imagine...you move into a period perfect Craftsman bungalow that has all the woodwork painted bright purple. You know the wood is Mahogany under the paint. You KNOW the paint is coming off. Would you then choose the remotest spot to begin, just in case....? What? You change your mind and will live with it purple?

Yep. Nope. Thanks for playin’ though!

[Michael Darnton]

Nate's point is if you are going to do something that you aren't certain of the results, always start in an invisible place, in case you did something really horrible. The premise is that if you don't know which cosmetics will dissolve your skin, why start right out on the middle of your face?

My first choice would be to pick at it with a fingernail. If it's latex paint, it might peel right off with a little careful work. One very general principle of working with potential stripping solvents is to wipe solvent dryly on a small area, wait a few to ten seconds, and try to peel (peel--lots of choices here of how to do that from a weaker solvent on a q-tip up to a lightly-used jackhammer. Repeat more vigorously if that doesn't work, or switch solvents. The concept is to not work so wet or so long that the solvent goes through what you want to take off, loosens what's underneath more easily, and then you peel off the paint AND the varnish as one layer. You want the top layer to soften, but nothing under it. Easier said than done.

[Conor Russell]

I've had success removing oil paint from very nice violin using a watered down  solution of ammonia, but I knew that the original spirit varnish beneath would be untouched. This would be a disaster on most violins. 

I always test my cleaner on the foot of the neck if it's  original. 

[Brad Dorsey]

5 hours ago, Michael Darnton said:

...My first choice would be to pick at it with a fingernail...

If that doesn't work, you could try gentle scraping with a dull knife blade held at about 20 degrees to the surface.  If you're lucky, the paint will not be strongly bonded to the underlying varnish, and your blade will be sharp enough to scrape of the paint but too dull to cut into the varnish.  I once managed to scrape a clear overcoat off a violin in this fashion with no damage to the underlying varnish.

[Michael_Molnar]

Throw it out.

[David Beard]

And I thought a Sawzall was the reccomend starting point for something like this?

[Rue]

Must be really thick paint if you need a Sawzall to remove it.

[Thomas Coleman]

Considering the price you paid I would not hesitate in the slightest to use Citrizip.  Stuff enough bulk of paper towel into the f hole that you can get a wad to stay in place under it, best to prevent any drips  on the inside.  Paint on with a cheap brush.  Use old credit card scraper to remove the bulk.  Apply more as needed.  Wash instrument off with mineral spirits.  Wear gloves.

[L.Colburn]

1 hour ago, Michael_Molnar said:

Throw it out.

I live by a different measure of worth. 

[Rue]

7 minutes ago, Mystic said:

I live by a different measure of worth. 

I like that! I will quote your quote! 

I have an adult son I need to have a conversation with...

[L.Colburn]

After really examining the eBay photos, and the lack of any real damage to the paint, I’m suspecting it’s just sticky latex that made it too obnoxious to play. if that’s the case, a little soapy water and rubbing could, in theory, lift off quite a bit. Especially on the back, neck and scroll. As an added bonus... the chin rest has been glued to the top.  When I took a shot of the back and did some manipulation in grey scale, it looks like it’s a single piece back, pins upper and lower with a nice diagonal tigering under all that paint. Or, it could just be a trick of the lens.

I’ll find out Wednesday and post a full set of photos. 

[L.Colburn]

2 hours ago, Brad Dorsey said:

If that doesn't work, you could try gentle scraping with a dull knife blade held at about 20 degrees to the surface.  If you're lucky, the paint will not be strongly bonded to the underlying varnish, and your blade will be sharp enough to scrape of the paint but too dull to cut into the varnish.  I once managed to scrape a clear overcoat off a violin in this fashion with no damage to the underlying varnish.

I’m a bit OCD on overdrive right now so finger picking knife scraping intensely repetitive motion might just work for me. I’m starting with soap and water and slowly try other things.