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reepicheep

Latest Ebay Fiddle!

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I will start by saying I only paid $275 mostly because the photos made me think the bow that came with it was silver mounted (it is not) and nicer than it turned out to be.   Although I am happy with the fiddle which looks a lot better in person than in the crappy ebay photos, and I like it,  pegbox repair and all.  The back measures 355.  According to the seller in Algonquin, IL they took it to the "local violin shop" who said it was German, had a sweet sound and was easy to play.  From what I can see through the f holes, there is zero indication it ever had a label.  The varnish is nice,  a gold ground with red on top.  I took the photos out on my deck and the colors were great in that light but my cell phone camera didn't capture it very well.   It looks like it has a 1 piece lower rib.  

When I bring it to my friend's shop,  my selling point will be that he has to do no work on it, and at least the crack on top isn't a soundpost crack for once :)  I will no doubt end up keeping it for myself, with the short neck and fine tuners it's just what I need.   

At least I'm getting practice with my fiddle photography?

 

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Scroll repair looks like it will need to be redone eventually, overall, it looks like a nice violin for 2 3/4 hundred bucks. I hope the Experts will offer a bit more information

Edited by PhilipKT

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5 hours ago, Herman West said:

you need to get rid of those steel finetuners quick.

Why? My own tailpiece was handmade by the maker but also has steel fine tuners, and when I put on a different tailpiece the sound was so horrible I immediately replaced the original. Fine tuners don’t necessarily damage the sound.

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41 minutes ago, PhilipKT said:

Fine tuners don’t necessarily damage the sound.

No, but they are ugly. IMHO, one should use a Wittner composite tailpiece if they want 4 fine tuners. 

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I'd rather have four fine tuners, if necessary (and I've had them), than geared pegs.

The smaller black ones would look better. Or an integrated tailpiece - but I prefer four tuners. That way you have the option to remove them if you like, and I find the integrated tailpieces unattractive too.

Having said that - on a violin, four big heavy fune tuners might affect sound. Probably not something a beginner would notice, but an intermediate to advanced player might.

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Fine tuners are a big no on a violin. And they do affect the sound. I occasionally buy violins from an someone who caters to fiddlers.  He slaps on the ol witner black plastic thing. I can hardly wait to get home to replace it 

Edited by Jrwillis
Grammar

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9 hours ago, jacobsaunders said:

You should be able to work it out youself, if you run it through this guide

 

Thank you!  I might need a cup of tea while I read through this :lol: 

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Wow, I forgot all about PH!  Excellent beer observations also :)

AH Ok, it's probably Mittenwald: somehow I missed the little whisper of a notch on the bottom rib earlier!  

Here's some more photos of other bits discussed in that thread.  

Thank you! 

4 hours ago, jacobsaunders said:

It includes observations about proper beer:D

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Pretty good ebay buy, especially if you just want it for yourself and it turns out to be a good player. That "repair" hurts though, and when I see a repair like this I have to wonder what else that guy may have done that cannot be seen. Still its a good chance you found a nice player.

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On 2/2/2020 at 5:18 PM, PhilipKT said:

Why? My own tailpiece was handmade by the maker but also has steel fine tuners, and when I put on a different tailpiece the sound was so horrible I immediately replaced the original. Fine tuners don’t necessarily damage the sound.

Because those big steel finetuners often scratch the varnish when you're changing strings.

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Just now, Herman West said:

Because those big steel finetuners often scratch the varnish when you're changing strings.

Never happened to me and I can’t imagine it happening at all if one is careful.

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That looks like a really nice fiddle for 275$ ! Wonder how it sounds...

I know absolutely nothing compared to the people who regularly post here, but did want to mention: you might want to consider replacing the pegs with "Perfection Planetary Pegs" (or the Wittner version thereof). You can do the work yourself: set of pegs is 75$, plus you might need a peg-reamer (around 30$, cost + shipping from Chinese suppliers on ebay). If you did that, you could get rid of all 4 of the fine tuners, plus relieve all the stress on the pegbox (I really love that beautiful repair).

If this interests you, check out the postings in Maestronet/Fingerboard re geared pegs. Players love them but it's a controversial topic as regards authenticity, respect for tradition, etc..

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5 hours ago, Al Cramer said:

That looks like a really nice fiddle for 275$ ! Wonder how it sounds...

I know absolutely nothing compared to the people who regularly post here, but did want to mention: you might want to consider replacing the pegs with "Perfection Planetary Pegs" (or the Wittner version thereof). You can do the work yourself: set of pegs is 75$, plus you might need a peg-reamer (around 30$, cost + shipping from Chinese suppliers on ebay). If you did that, you could get rid of all 4 of the fine tuners, plus relieve all the stress on the pegbox (I really love that beautiful repair).

If this interests you, check out the postings in Maestronet/Fingerboard re geared pegs. Players love them but it's a controversial topic as regards authenticity, respect for tradition, etc..

Agree except for using a cheap Chinese reamer, and will note that the geared pegs often require spiral bushing first because the existing holes are too large.  :)

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My main concern with the fiddle would be the dirty (presumably) open crack from the A peg (treble side) to the top of the peg box, that some jerk has screwed together. This will make the fitting of any sort of pegs a more involved operation. One should repair this first, and then fit proper pegs, no plastic shit.

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The preference for this sort of planetary or geared pegs seems to be an unbridgeable  cultural difference, in my environment these would be a reason for a significant devaluation.

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6 minutes ago, Blank face said:

in my environment these would be a reason for a significant devaluation.

Significant? Why? They can always be removed and replaced with traditional friction pegs.

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57 minutes ago, GeorgeH said:

Significant? Why? They can always be removed and replaced with traditional friction pegs.

 

They reduce the value of the violin by the cost of fitting proper pegs. In this case, where there is a crack in the peg box from the E peg, no pegs will work properly anyway

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On 2/6/2020 at 9:53 PM, Spelman said:

I've never found geared pegs to be as accurate as fine tuners or well fit pegs.

I have, once you get used to them, and I've found them very stable.  Unlike wooden pegs, with Warchal Karneol, they may hold tune for a month or more, and despite regular playing.  Considering the humidity and temperature swings around here, that's very pleasant.

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4 hours ago, Violadamore said:

Unlike wooden pegs, with Warchal Karneol, they may hold tune for a month or more, and despite regular playing. 

Please define what is "hold tune". Reminds me of some kids saying "My teacher tuned the violin last month, so it's ok.".

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6 hours ago, Blank face said:

Please define what is "hold tune". Reminds me of some kids saying "My teacher tuned the violin last month, so it's ok.".

When bowed,  a string resonates at the same frequency (as determined by comparison with a reference tone as well as a frequency meter) that it did the last time you adjusted the pegs, without further adjustment.  :)

That holding tune occurs  over a longer duration with vernier geared mechanical pegs suggests that they eliminate some causes of detuning common to wooden friction pegs.  ^_^

Anybody else noticed this?  I suspect that other conditions necessary to make it happen include a stable setup, structural stability in the violin body, and fully broken-in strings, all of which are true for the instrument I'm observing this in.

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