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Jeff Krieger

A Strong Wood Glue and Heat

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Hide glue works OK for home made purfling. Just don't go too crazy with water and heat when bending it. I have used regular Titebond for making layered string inlays on furniture, it bends well after a light soaking alone.

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What's your exact application? If you're trying to laminate ribs, it would be different than something like purfling. Every larger laminate bending application that I've seen, doesn't use heat, and bends the wood cold, with glue in between the laminates, and holds it in the form until the glue sets and dries.

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1 hour ago, Jeff Krieger said:

Does anyone know of a strong wood glue that won’t come apart when heated during bending. Most specs for glues do not mention heat.

About 15 years ago the late violin maker Sam Compton recommended using "Gorilla" glue (urethane) for making bent top plates because the joints would hold when the wood was wetted and heated. 

I use a clear "non foaming"  version for my viola center joints and the label says it is suitable for indoor and outdoor applications.  I can use my violas as canoe paddles.

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15 minutes ago, Jeff Krieger said:

...but I saw that Gorilla glue actually expands...

It does.  But if the joint is well clamped I don't think it will forced open by the expansion.  Instead, the excess glue oozes out as it expands.  You should mask the area around the joint, because the glue that oozes out is impossible to remove after it hardens.  Let us know how it works.

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41 minutes ago, Brad Dorsey said:

It does.  But if the joint is well clamped I don't think it will forced open by the expansion.  Instead, the excess glue oozes out as it expands.  You should mask the area around the joint, because the glue that oozes out is impossible to remove after it hardens.  Let us know how it works.

That's why I use the non foaming version.  

But even with the non foaming version it is helpful to mask the areas around the joint. When you apply the clamping pressure the excess glue squishes out of the joint as it is tightened and it can be easily wiped off.

 I use masking tape and remove it before the glue not quite fully hardens. 

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1 hour ago, Rue said:

Marty? This yours?

 

il_794xN.1614784133_p10o.jpg

No, It's designed with beautiful classic proportions and shapes and I would never build something like that. 

 

But I like the idea of using a one piece construction to avoid moisture change expansion-shrinkage mismatches that cause wood cracking and joint separations.

The trade-off is that it might be rather heavy and probably has a low sound output.

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5 minutes ago, Jeff Krieger said:

How do I track down the non foaming version? Will it say on the label?

The Gorilla advertising should say "No Foam".  The bottle labels (1.75 oz and 3.75oz) say "clear" but only the larger one has enough space to say "crystal clear", "no foam", and "water resistant". 

The foaming version has an amber color.  Both versions are often displayed together in hardware stores.

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Resorcinol-Formaldehyde glue handles heat & steam. It was used for decades in boat building and is still used for some wood aircraft.  Drawbacks are formaldehyde, no gap filling, ugly glue line, short shelf life and harder to purchase these days. Other than that :rolleyes: Aircraft spruce sells g-1131 (cascophen).

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