2nd plane for bow making?

[Goran74]

Hello. I read older posts on bow making but since they were a long time ago, I think new tools come up. I use the Stanley 9 1/2 for making the stick as 1st plane.

Which plane would be good as second, for details, rounding and final dimensions? 

(Nielsen 101, Ibex flat sole, veritas pocket, kunz 101, herdim flat sole finger plane 18mm etc?)

 

Thank you

[bengreen]

For final dimensioning you need to avoid tearout because you don't have enough material left to smooth again without weakening the stick. 

You can get away with a cutting iron if you're real careful with grain direction and scrupulous about sharpening. 

But for the end game, it's more forgiving to switch to scraper planes, both flat bottom and curved bottom (not spooned like an Ibex). 

Do a search for bow makers scraper planes. If you want a quick one stop place that only deals in bow stuff, you can try Lynn Hannings site. Jerry P commissioned a limited run to recreate historic planes he likes. He might have some left. 

[David Stiles]

 

On 1/29/2020 at 1:35 AM, Goran74 said:

Which plane would be good as second, for details, rounding and final dimensions

Forgive me for resurrecting an old thread however I feel this discussion has a way to go.   I am at at this place.  It seems that scraper planes are best option.  If I were to get one of Lynn Hannings', what size would be best; small (55mm) or medium (93mm)?  And should I go flat or curved?  

 

 

[JacksonMaberry]

Pretty easy and cheap to make small planes as well. Use the basic krenov design and scale it down. That way you can make a variety of shapes and angles. 

[violins88]

IMHO I think bowmakers require really special planes. Very small, metal. Tiny throat. Is Jerry Pasewicz here?

[JacksonMaberry]

1 hour ago, violins88 said:

IMHO I think bowmakers require really special planes. Very small, metal. Tiny throat. Is Jerry Pasewicz here?

I think it depends on the maker, like with everything else. The series of planes Jerry had made a while back were the pinnacle of the French golden age design, to be sure. Can't imagine why they would have to be metal, however. Small throat and steep pitch certainly helpful. But you can do the same things with skew, microbevels, etc. Skin cat, many ways, etc.

[violins88]

Like these, for example? From Jerry.

 

 

 

[Mark Norfleet]

10 hours ago, violins88 said:

IMHO I think bowmakers require really special planes. Very small, metal. Tiny throat. Is Jerry Pasewicz here?

Jerry isn’t participating here these days.  He might have a few of those planes left, which are very nice!  I bought some from him last year.

[David Stiles]

Does anyone use these?  They have two sizes, flat and curved.  

 

[Carl Johnson]

It’s not hard or terribly expensive to make brass planes in a variety of shapes and blade angles of your choosing with the tooling a bowmaker might possess and a little time. The most touchy aspect is hardening the blade. There’s a bow making tools book as well as an older American Lutherie article with more info and ideas. For a scraper plane iirc the Arthur Bultitude and hill tradition book includes a retford plane drawing and a scraper drawing. I can’t speak to shape or blade angle, there’s fifty opinions.

[David Stiles]

The size shape and blade angle are what I need to work out.  I have just tried a 50mm ibex finger plane clone with blade in reverse; bevel up.  Blade is about 40 deg + bevel of 25 deg makes total of 65 deg.  It works kind of OK but I am getting some chattering.    Makes me wonder if the commercially made 90deg options are a good idea.