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Julian Cossmann Cooke

Gewa-style purfling channel markers

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Thinking of having some Gewa-style purfling markers manufactured. Looks like I would need to have some CAD drawings done for the things to be machined. Ideas? Anyone want to dissuade me? I have arrived at this point thanks to doing double channels on a Brescian viola and then trading away my handmade markers for a set of Gewas. Now I need a larger set again!  And my students -- look like I now have four of them -- will need markers at some point anyway.  I really do not like the ones on the market now and if I can make the Gewas at a reasonable price, they are what I would recommend to them -- at cost, of course.

Would appreciate a  suggested step-by-step plan.

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2 minutes ago, arglebargle said:

What do those look like again?

No photo description available.They're actually Mittenwald style, but made by Gewa.  Sounds like they are double blade, a feature I have tried on other models but didn't like.  I have an inquiry in for a price quote, but still want to see how expensive it would be to have them made to my own specs.

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1 hour ago, Wood Butcher said:

Can't you just buy one from Gewa?

Could.  Just trying to save students some dough.  And I need a bigger one than the Gewa for Brescian anyway.  Have the tubing.  Will make a set for myself and if it is easy and cheap, let them make their own.

I too prefer two markers.  I've found the double markers problematic.  Tried the under one -- round body -- it was double blade and was harder to control because of the round stock (as opposed to the gently rounded tab on the Mittenwalds).

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On 11/16/2019 at 4:44 PM, Julian Cossmann Cooke said:

Could.  Just trying to save students some dough.  And I need a bigger one than the Gewa for Brescian anyway.  Have the tubing.  Will make a set for myself and if it is easy and cheap, let them make their own.

Yes, that will work.
Maybe there are some Chinese Ebay ones that would work for your students, some of these seem pretty good value.

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On 11/16/2019 at 8:44 AM, Julian Cossmann Cooke said:

Could.  Just trying to save students some dough.  And I need a bigger one than the Gewa for Brescian anyway.  Have the tubing.  Will make a set for myself and if it is easy and cheap, let them make their own.

I too prefer two markers.  I've found the double markers problematic.  Tried the under one -- round body -- it was double blade and was harder to control because of the round stock (as opposed to the gently rounded tab on the Mittenwalds).

Aehnelt manufactures these. I have one that I don't use, but it is bladeless. I'd be happy to sell it. Replacement blades are available by aehnelt through Gewa. (Aehnelt is the manufacturer of the famous "goldstahl" hi-speed steel blades, by the way)

What sort of double bladed, round bodied cutter have you tried and disliked? I am curious, because I use one that might match that description and have tried nothing better. It bears against both plate edges for maximum stability, it has a depth stop, and I have shaped the blades to cut in both directions. It practically does the work for me. It's also nice to direct working pressure very close to the action of cutting, vs the mittenwald which requires force be applied at least an inch away. 

Edit: why do you need a larger than usual marker/cutter for Brescian double purfling? Reach for the inner strip?

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9 hours ago, JacksonMaberry said:

Aehnelt manufactures these. I have one that I don't use, but it is bladeless. I'd be happy to sell it. Replacement blades are available by aehnelt through Gewa. (Aehnelt is the manufacturer of the famous "goldstahl" hi-speed steel blades, by the way)

What sort of double bladed, round bodied cutter have you tried and disliked? I am curious, because I use one that might match that description and have tried nothing better. It bears against both plate edges for maximum stability, it has a depth stop, and I have shaped the blades to cut in both directions. It practically does the work for me. It's also nice to direct working pressure very close to the action of cutting, vs the mittenwald which requires force be applied at least an inch away. 

Edit: why do you need a larger than usual marker/cutter for Brescian double purfling? Reach for the inner strip?

Last question first: yes, to reach the inner strip.

This is the round model that to which I could not get accustomed.  https://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/products/tools/purfling-tools/purfling-cutter-deluxe-model-brass-small-diameter-9839s1425638502/  It's also a bit pricey for folks making their first instruments.

But I am glad you have found one you like.  If you can find a link to a picture, I would be interested in seeing it.  Or hire a hand model to hold one and take your own picture.  :lol:

 

 

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4 hours ago, Julian Cossmann Cooke said:

Last question first: yes, to reach the inner strip.

This is the round model that to which I could not get accustomed.  https://www.touchstonetonewoods.co.uk/products/tools/purfling-tools/purfling-cutter-deluxe-model-brass-small-diameter-9839s1425638502/  It's also a bit pricey for folks making their first instruments.

But I am glad you have found one you like.  If you can find a link to a picture, I would be interested in seeing it.  Or hire a hand model to hold one and take your own picture.  :lol:

 

 

My hand model budget is shot for the fiscal year, but I hope these photos will be useful! 

 

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1 hour ago, JacksonMaberry said:

My hand model budget is shot for the fiscal year, but I hope these photos will be useful! 

 

Thank you, Jackson! That is the sort of purfling cutter I was referring to. The extended horizontal element helps prevent rotating in the hand, an issue which I think Julian mentioned, and is  extendable to cut far away from the edge, like needed on double-purfled Brescian style instruments.

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1 hour ago, David Burgess said:

Thank you, Jackson! That is the sort of purfling cutter I was referring to. The extended horizontal element helps prevent rotating in the hand, an issue which I think Julian mentioned, and is  extendable to cut far away from the edge, like needed on double-purfled Brescian style instruments.

No problem, DB! I bought mine second hand - it was made by Sai Gao back in the day. They sell what looks like the same thing at IVC, but have the blades mounted the wrong way in the photo. The blades desperately need reshaping right out of the box. I use both blades at once, but you could definitely use two cutters, each with one blade, to excellent effect I imagine. 

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5 hours ago, JacksonMaberry said:

No problem, DB! I bought mine second hand - it was made by Sai Gao back in the day. They sell what looks like the same thing at IVC, but have the blades mounted the wrong way in the photo. The blades desperately need reshaping right out of the box. I use both blades at once, but you could definitely use two cutters, each with one blade, to excellent effect I imagine. 

I did have one of these and sold it to a classmate.  May be a case of not having given it a chance to succeed.

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I made both styles myself out of some scrap wood and old bread-knife blade. The older one I made when I was 13-14 years old and all I had was pocket knife, saw  and handdrill (to explain the roughness). I made the other one two years ago again from scrap laying around (with piece of bone on the face) and leftover pieces of the same old knife blade just to try cutting binding channels for mandolin all by hand. Works great with the handle below and the long sticking piece ot keep it balanced.

I think it would be grat excercise for students to make some of their tools. (certainly was for me, both for hand skills and thinking about best use of the tools). I made most tools inmy shop (originally because unavailability in my neck of the woods and to save dough as well)

IMG_2610.JPG

IMG_2609.JPG

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5 hours ago, MikeC said:

can you show a picture of the back side of it?  How do you adjust it? 

There is slot just like the one for blade on the other side but with an angle for the longer wedge (you can see it on the other pic a bit better). There is wooden spacer between the blade and body and the wedge holds it all together. I tried to keep it as simple as possible and it works well (I would change the spacer for metal sheet or such as the wood can crush if you push/ knock the wedge too much in). I cut binding channels for two F-5 mandolins right after I made it without need for any further adjustment.

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