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On 3/27/2022 at 2:57 PM, Dave Slight said:

The Gagliano model violin set-up. Really wish I could take better photos with less reflections.

 

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I assume that ‘model’ means not ‘copy’ and therefore the violin should be viewed as such.

However, to get just a bit more of ‘Gagliano taste’ I’d recommend to make the purfling the Gagliano way. I wrote an article about it in the STRAD some years ago. You need beech for the whites and parchment for t he blacks. It’s not really not much more work and certainly worth the effort. 
 

Otherwise nice job.

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On 3/28/2022 at 6:30 PM, Urban Luthier said:

Gorgeous. Love the model and your tasteful interpretation. Varnish is masterful! 

Thank you very much :)

 

 

On 3/29/2022 at 12:21 AM, Andreas Preuss said:

I assume that ‘model’ means not ‘copy’ and therefore the violin should be viewed as such.

However, to get just a bit more of ‘Gagliano taste’ I’d recommend to make the purfling the Gagliano way. I wrote an article about it in the STRAD some years ago. You need beech for the whites and parchment for t he blacks. It’s not really not much more work and certainly worth the effort. 
 

Otherwise nice job.

I often have a problem with instruments termed copies. I regularly see things here in the shop, where it's clear the maker copied nothing, apart from using an outline and soundhole rubbing. That could be a long rant, so I will leave it at that, for now.

Because I had access to the original, and have known it for many years, I have therefore copied a significant amount of detail. For my own work, I choose now to use a symmetric outline, and have had to re-engineer the distorted archings of the original, this is why I generally refer to my instruments as models.

Since it turned out so well, I'm already starting to make another, and will take your advice on beech purfling. Do you make your purfling flat, or build it up on a curved form?
I tend to make my purfling up in large batches, so that I don't have to make any more for a few years, not that it is terribly difficult, but is messy the way I've been doing it.

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2 hours ago, Dave Slight said:

Do you make your purfling flat, or build it up on a curved form?

I cut it always flat for all types of wood. For this purpose I soak 2mm thick wooden boards in water for a prolonged time. I make shavings with a flat angled block plane.

For gagliano purflings however I figured that they must have used a slightly different technique with beech wood.If the plane doesn’t run approximately along the fibers it doesn’t cut beech straight with an even thickness. So I take my 2mm board and split it along the grain. Because the split line is never a straight line a block plane is already too big to make shavings. I used a small finger plane (c. 30mm size). After cleaning off the twisted surface the planing goes along the curvy line. It’s really fun. Sometimes you see in gagliano purflings ‘swollen’ sections where you wonder how they came there. With the described technique those ‘swollen’ sections come out naturally and inevitably. (Hope my explanations can be understood) 
 

For the blacks I bought stained parchment sheets from Pergameno in the US. Black stained parchment is too dark, grey is perfect as it gets darker under the varnish.
 

For any questions feel free to pm me. 

——————-

I agree what you say about copies. My saying is 

A copy is a copy is a copy. 
 

looking forward to see your next gagliano model. 

 

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20 hours ago, Jim Bress said:

Very well done as usual. I really like the outline and f’s of this model. N. Amati?

 

19 hours ago, Urban Luthier said:

Beautiful Dave. Looks like a grand Amati.

Thanks chaps.
Well spotted, it’s based on a Girolamo Amati II, circa 1690-1695.
I am fortunate, in that my client was kind enough to loan me the original for a few days, so that I could take patterns and measurements from it.

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