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Arching and purfling -- order of operations


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I currently have my violin plates tack glued to the rib structure and have just about finalized the outline. I am thinking I want to mark the purfling channel, then take the violin apart and cut the channel and install the purfling, then finalize the arching. Am I on the right track? My arches still need a good deal of work.

Also I find I have significantly undercut the overhang at two places on the outline of the back, to less than 2mm. Is there anything I can or should do to compensate for this? 

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1 hour ago, fiddlerjer said:

One other thing, am I right to think I won't finalize how far the corners are extending until I've glued up the rib garland to the back plate and trimmed the ends of the ribs? I think they are a little bit long currently.

Use a little ivory soap on the edges to help the purfling marker move easier, and don't forget to glue size the spruce with weak hide glue before marking and cutting the purfling channel. 

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19 minutes ago, Nick Allen said:

don't forget to glue size the spruce with weak hide glue before marking and cutting the purfling channel. 

Is this the process of painting glue onto the surface of the platform, let it dry and then sand or file away where the grain is raised? 

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On 11/2/2019 at 1:40 PM, fiddlerjer said:

Is this the process of painting glue onto the surface of the platform, let it dry and then sand or file away where the grain is raised? 

Yeah. But first get the platform flat, and the outline absolutely final first. The glue sizing will help keep things from fraying and breaking with the spruce, especially in the corners. 

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2 hours ago, Nick Allen said:

Yeah. But first get the platform flat, and the outline absolutely final first. The glue sizing will help keep things from fraying and breaking with the spruce, especially in the corners. 

Nick,

Does this tend to cause glue ghosting later on? I like the idea, but am nervous to try that on my own violins for that reason.

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7 hours ago, BigFryMan said:

Nick,

Does this tend to cause glue ghosting later on? I like the idea, but am nervous to try that on my own violins for that reason.

It shouldn't. As long as you're careful and don't get it everywhere. Plus you're gonna be carving that wood away anyways. 

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12 hours ago, Nick Allen said:

Yeah. But first get the platform flat, and the outline absolutely final first. The glue sizing will help keep things from fraying and breaking with the spruce, especially in the corners. 

I've already marked most of the purfling channel on the spruce, except the corners. Can I still do glue sizing and then touch up the marking as needed?

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On 11/2/2019 at 11:17 AM, Nick Allen said:

Use a little ivory soap on the edges to help the purfling marker move easier, and don't forget to glue size the spruce with weak hide glue before marking and cutting the purfling channel. 

That makes so much sense!

I'm building my first violin and the short grain kept breaking off. I didnt even think about that!

This board is great!

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7 hours ago, Bill Yacey said:

I always complete the outline margin first, then level off the first 1/2 inch or so inwards from the edge, and then cut the purfling channels followed finally by the arching.

Do you glue the purfling in prior to cutting the arching?

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