Can't get my knife sharp enough


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3 hours ago, Roger Hill said:

No reflections from the edge, the bevel is now set.  Take your sacrificial knife to the very fine stones and see how sharp you can actually get it.  It won't require much time to get an excellent edge.

 

How will you test to see if you have an excellent edge?

I use loops of 40 wt rayon embroidery thread attached to a 65 gram weight ( 26 USA pennies). Also, I believe that a super sharp edge will oxidize over night and won’t be as sharp in the morning. Has anyone else found this?

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1 hour ago, violins88 said:

 

How will you test to see if you have an excellent edge?

I use loops of 40 wt rayon embroidery thread attached to a 65 gram weight ( 26 USA pennies). Also, I believe that a super sharp edge will oxidize over night and won’t be as sharp in the morning. Has anyone else found this?

Yup, a variant of the scarf test.  Beyond the usual thumbnail or cow horn test, I find pulling a blade across a foam target under its own weight useful.  If a blade will cleanly cut a piece of foam rubber upholstery cushion into "delicatessen slices", it's ready for the shop, the kitchen, or the cutting exhibition.

IMHO, while what you say is generally true, edge oxidation is a complicated matter of the steel, the bevel, storage conditions, and the oil/wax used.  :)

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On 11/4/2019 at 10:17 PM, Adrian Lopez said:

Here's the edge of my sacrificial knife after sharpening with a Tormek.

20191104_234759.thumb.jpg.97974ed7cee98fdc839783e18c68b00b.jpg

A much better edge, I think, though after so many failed attempts at sharpening the blade is now badly worn. The edge is still not perfect along the entire blade (not shown), but at least I can see the goal. No idea how long it might have taken me to master sharpening with water stones.

Much better indeed! This is a huge improvement.

Roger Hill has been telling you all the right moves. Next is for a few swipes on the 1500, alternating sides of the bevel. Watch for the scratch-mark pattern you make on the bevel. You're looking for an even stripe of smoother scratch marks at the edge and at the heel of the lovely hollow you've made in your knife. As soon as those stripes run the complete length of the edge on both sides of the bevel, move on to the 8000. It shouldn't take much. It's all about keeping that bevel flat against the stone as you move the blade into the stone, following the blade's curve.

Next is the 8000. You should see those scratch marks you just made get polished out, maybe even to the point of a mirror polish. When those polished stripes run the whole length of the blade, you win. Now go carve a bridge.

Learning to sharpen a curved knife like that with just youtube and a bunch of people talking at you from the internet is a tough way to start. Good on you for sticking with it, that knife is almost there.

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