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Kristen Stadelmaier

Can you tell me anything about this instrument? Labeled Maregno Romanus Rinaldi

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57 minutes ago, jacobsaunders said:

Heyeks book „Weg zur Knechtschaft“ is called “Road to Serfdom“ in the English language version. Whichever language, Hayek’s teaching would be to put it in the dustbin

 

Thought path would be more adequate for the surrounding.:D

39 minutes ago, Kristen Stadelmaier said:

If it plays and sounds decent, then I don't think 8 year olds in public school will care how much I paid or where it came from.

As told before, you would probably need some more investments before it might sound anyhow. Maybe more than it needs to buy a more decent fiddle.

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I started teaching on a not-so-great violin. I got a much nicer fiddle and it has made me a much better teacher. If you try to show a student something and the violin can't do it or won't without great effort, then it makes it much harder to effectively communicate your lesson.

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2 minutes ago, Spelman said:

I started teaching on a not-so-great violin. I got a much nicer fiddle and it has made me a much better teacher. If you try to show a student something and the violin can't do it or won't without great effort, then it makes it much harder to effectively communicate your lesson.

That is generally my experience as well.  Well said.

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11 minutes ago, Spelman said:

I started teaching on a not-so-great violin. I got a much nicer fiddle and it has made me a much better teacher. If you try to show a student something and the violin can't do it or won't without great effort, then it makes it much harder to effectively communicate your lesson.

I've had some most unpromising fiddles through here that turned out to play easily and sound good.  If the OP finds it's screechy, wolfy. and unplayable, she can invoke buyer protection and get her money back.  So far, all we really know is that she got it for $150 on eBay, and the varnish is iffy.  Waiting is.  :)

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I got the violin today!

So far, it looks okay body-wise. No cracks, one small open seam that shouldn't be too much to fix. The seller (wisely) took it apart, so I can't see how it sounds. I wish I could set it up myself! The strings look relatively new, if not brand new, from what I saw. The pegs look good, so I might keep them for now instead of having my luthier install new ones.

However, the end button is interesting; I'm not sure how long they're supposed to be, but when I tried to attach the tailpiece, the end button wouldn't stay put, even though the instrument was set up in the photos. Any information on that? The one in the new set I got is significantly shorter, and needs reaming, so it must be a blank. The new tailpiece is beautiful and I'm happy with it!

My other (big) concern is the fingerboard. While it looked to me to be okay in the photos, I'm worried it might be warped. I'll include a photo when I can later. My luthier gives me good deals, so it wouldn't break the bank to fix it, but it might be more of an issue if he needs to do work on the neck.

I'll be seeing him on Saturday and I'll update you guys! In the meantime, feedback is appreciated on this comment! It certainly feels better made than my Anton Breton violin.

Edited to add photos! Let me know if I can take better ones. It's not as orange as the photos make it look. It's actually a nice color, but I'm sure color and quality of varnish aren't mutually exclusive.

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Edited by Kristen Stadelmaier
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Is the purfling painted on? Doesn't look it on the front.

Regardless- painted purfling doesn't always mean low quality- unless the violin was overpriced at $50 ( I have one of those)...

Is the sound post up? The seller really shouldn't have taken the violin apart. They should just have loosened the strings and packaged it properly.

Let us know what your luthier says.

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The end button should be a good fit in the block. If it is not tight, they can pull out very easily when you try and fit the tailpiece.  You may be able to hold it in place with one hand while tensioning the strings and get it to hold.

If it seems very loose, have it replaced, or the hole bushed.

 

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On 5/29/2019 at 10:27 AM, Spelman said:

I started teaching on a not-so-great violin. I got a much nicer fiddle and it has made me a much better teacher. If you try to show a student something and the violin can't do it or won't without great effort, then it makes it much harder to effectively communicate your lesson.

 

On 5/29/2019 at 10:30 AM, violinnewb said:

That is generally my experience as well.  Well said.

Well - my teacher used her "good violin and bow" for teaching - until very recently - when there was an unfortunate accident.

Now she is using a cheap, but acceptable, alternative set.

I certainly can hear the difference - but I  don't care. She still sounds more than adequate on the teaching set. I doubt any other student would even notice (especiallythe 8 year olds), or if they did, mind.

If she really needs to - for some "advanced" reason, she can still use the good set.

Don't see an issue.

 

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10 minutes ago, Rue said:

Is the purfling painted on? Doesn't look it on the front.

Regardless- painted purfling doesn't always mean low quality- unless the violin was overpriced at $50 ( I have one of those)...

Is the sound post up? The seller really shouldn't have taken the violin apart. They should just have loosened the strings and packaged it properly.

Let us know what your luthier says.

The soundpost is up, indeed. I'm guessing they took it apart because the case is literally falling apart. I was even nervous picking it up with the violin inside. There's no cushioning, no suspension. However, it was very well-packed. Lots of bubble wrap!!

I can tell the with the purfling because if I follow one of the wood grains, especially on the front, it doesn't get interrupted by the purfling. Where the poplar would be, the grain goes right through. And, parts of the paint are obviously brushed on, especially near the corners. I did some research and I guess some well-known makers have painted theirs on, so I guess I might just be a bit pretentious about it. 

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22 minutes ago, Dave Slight said:

The end button should be a good fit in the block. If it is not tight, they can pull out very easily when you try and fit the tailpiece.  You may be able to hold it in place with one hand while tensioning the strings and get it to hold.

If it seems very loose, have it replaced, or the hole bushed.

 

The original one is a bit loose. Bushing would probably cost more than it's worth, so I will see what my luthier says about the new one I got in my set. In the photos above, the new one is the shorter one. From collar to end, the new button is 9.5mm.

I can try again to set it up, but I'm 99% sure the afterlength would be wrong. I'm not sure of the measurements required for a good setup. 

I should take some classes!!

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48 minutes ago, Dave Slight said:

The end button should be a good fit in the block. If it is not tight, they can pull out very easily when you try and fit the tailpiece.  You may be able to hold it in place with one hand while tensioning the strings and get it to hold.

If it seems very loose, have it replaced, or the hole bushed.

 

I did it! I'm sure the afterlength is all wrong, and the strings won't stay in tune (pegs keep slipping, but they're also somewhat stiff), and when I turn the pegs, the bridge tilts. However, for my very first setup with no instructions, I'm pretty proud of myself.

That being said, either the fingerboard is worn way down, or the bridge is far too tall. The action is crazy high. 

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If the action is high, it's most likely that the neck has sagged and will need a reset of one type or another. Is there any chance that you can send this back? Sorry to be a bearer of bad news.

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1 minute ago, MarkBouquet clearsky said:

If the action is high, it's most likely that the neck has sagged and will need a reset of one type or another. Is there any chance that you can send this back? Sorry to be a bearer of bad news.

No, I can't send it back, but my luthier said he would be interested in old European instruments (I'm assuming this one is actually German), so if it's too much for me to repair, I'd sell it to him. Though, I wonder if the bridge is part of it. It looks crazy high compared to the fingerboard, and the nut looks a bit high too. Maybe those aren't original and were poorly done? The bridge looks big in general, as if it were poorly cut.

I'm attempting to throw some extra EP golds on it instead of the super high tension steel strings that are with it (I played a little bit, even though it's grossly out of tune and won't stay in tune) and they definitely sound like steel. 

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Another wild update!

I managed to gather an EP gold G, D, and E, and stole a Dominant A from the Breton violin. 

It honestly doesn't sound bad, despite the hodge-podge of strings. I think the main culprit here is the bridge; the angle of the cut is way different than the angle of the fingerboard.

I wish I had another one to put on (like I conveniently had a Wittner tailpiece and extraz decent strings lying around), but alas, I'm not as resourceful as I'd like.

I think this violin will be fine for teaching. And, if I have to spend $170 for the fingerboard and bridge, then I'll still have spent less than I would have for a decent instrument at a shop at the same price (if I do the math with my estimate, the total would come out to right around $400).

Sorry to bombard you all, I really do appreciate all your help. :) On Saturday, I'll be back with updates from my luthier!

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50 minutes ago, Kristen Stadelmaier said:

Another wild update!

I managed to gather an EP gold G, D, and E, and stole a Dominant A from the Breton violin. 

It honestly doesn't sound bad, despite the hodge-podge of strings. I think the main culprit here is the bridge; the angle of the cut is way different than the angle of the fingerboard.

I wish I had another one to put on (like I conveniently had a Wittner tailpiece and extraz decent strings lying around), but alas, I'm not as resourceful as I'd like.

I think this violin will be fine for teaching. And, if I have to spend $170 for the fingerboard and bridge, then I'll still have spent less than I would have for a decent instrument at a shop at the same price (if I do the math with my estimate, the total would come out to right around $400).

Sorry to bombard you all, I really do appreciate all your help. :) On Saturday, I'll be back with updates from my luthier!

From a cursory look at the photos, the bridge needs to be properly cut, is all.  It's way too high and needs to have its top curve track the fingerboard.  The fingerboard also needs to be planed, which will mean adjusting the nut as well.  The nut looks way too high as it is.  You'd proceed from the fingerboard issues first, back to the bridge, of course.  The end peg situation I can't judge from the photos. but doesn't seem too serious.  I'd replace the pegs with Wittner geared pegs.  All simple stuff, from where I sit, and part of a setup anyway..

OTOH, the big issue I see here is what some $@%^&** did with the bridge foot contact areas on the belly.  It looks like someone started inlays and quit.  I'd complete the inlays. 

I like the violin.  I'm not entirely sure what it is, provenance wise.  :)

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10 minutes ago, Violadamore said:

From a cursory look at the photos, the bridge needs to be properly cut, is all.  It's way too high and needs to have its top curve track the fingerboard.  The fingerboard also needs to be planed, which will mean adjusting the nut as well.  The nut looks way too high as it is.  You'd proceed from the fingerboard issues first, back to the bridge, of course.  The end peg situation I can't judge from the photos. but doesn't seem too serious.  I'd replace the pegs with Wittenauer geared pegs.  All simple stuff, from where I sit, and part of a setup anyway..

OTOH, the big issue I see here is what some !@#$%^&*( did with the bridge foot contact areas on the belly.  It looks like someone started inlays and quit.  I'd complete the inlays. 

I like the violin.  I'm not entirely sure what it is, provenance wise.  :)

I'm glad you agree with me!! I wonder if I would be wise to just get a whole new bridge, but Mark (my luthier) will tell me what his best course of action will be when I go see him.

I agree with the nut being too high, as well. At first I didn't quite notice, but I could definitely see it from certain angles. 

It seems the lower tension strings helped too. The steel ones were making the poorly cut bridge move like crazy. 

The end button fits nicely, and if the new one is too short and doesn't work, I'll keep this one.

Unfortunately, I can't afford the geared pegs at the moment, but I've got some pretty rosewood ones that just need to be profiled and shortened for the pegbox. :) I have another tailpiece too, but I chose the Wittner for my first attempt at a setup (how did I do???) because of the built-in tuners. The photo above is the original tailpiece; I forgot to take a photo of the new one! The wrappings on the strings wouldn't fit in the original, so I had to get creative. Good thing I've got some random materials lying about!

As for country of origin, I'm going to take a wild guess and say Germany, but we might be surprised.

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As I said before, a stripped and amateurish revarnished Saxon violin with several issues, worsely set up with the cheapest available chinese fittings except the old tailpiece. Purfling looks real, what doesn't make it any better. I'm doubting that any reasonable luthier would take it even for free. Just to fit a proper bridge at this grooves (at the wrong place) is a challenge.

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1 hour ago, Blank face said:

As I said before, a stripped and amateurish revarnished Saxon violin with several issues, worsely set up with the cheapest available chinese fittings except the old tailpiece. Purfling looks real, what doesn't make it any better. I'm doubting that any reasonable luthier would take it even for free. Just to fit a proper bridge at this grooves (at the wrong place) is a challenge.

Blankie, it's all fixable, she likes it, and it's all about sound.   I could swear you've been into Jacob's grumpy pills lately.  :P:lol:

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22 minutes ago, Violadamore said:

Blankie, it's all fixable, she likes it, and it's all about sound.   I could swear you've been into Jacob's grumpy pills lately.  :P:lol:

I spoke about reasonable and properly. If you are willing to spent more money on a ruined fiddle than it's necessary to buy a proper one without need of fixing, or you are having too much time left which could be spent on more reasonable work, it's always ok with me. There's something what I call the Rubbish Syndrome, liking everything what's obviously worthless against good advice, and the Danube Syndrome meaning waffling about fantasized sound. Both leads to emptied pockets, full  garages and deranged minds, so beware!

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One should also consider the question of how you wish to spend your time today. If you are a bored housewife with nothing to do, you could concievably enjoy pottering around with some junk. If you have a business, you will prefer to do something with your time that would create an added value.

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Frankly VdA I go with Blankie and Jacob!

A well set up Hidersine violin with fine tune pegs and Tonicas/Dominants, plus a free years after service, could sound fabulous and be no more expensive than the OP's will turn out to be.

The issue here is not getting a bargain but rather someone who enjoys fiddling about with fiddles, which is fine for its own sake.

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2 hours ago, reg said:

...

A well set up Hidersine violin with fine tune pegs and Tonicas/Dominants, plus a free years after service, could sound fabulous ...

???

I thought this was a rosin?

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