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Pablo Cuevas

Neck clamping tools

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...this violin making business gets more complicated every minute...

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Many people do just clamp it like this.

I tie two shoelaces around the rib structure (beforehand to wrap quickly later) and tension them by twisting them around each other with a pencil in the c bout. 

It probably makes little difference but helps keep the neck root in place for positioning.

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3 hours ago, with_joerg said:

My question is: Is that serious (look link). Can/should I do it this way?

0012_18.jpg

 

That clamp is perhaps a bit too big and heavy, but the technique works. Here is mine :

2027348777_DSC_1107rid.thumb.jpg.2ce1db981817f374b8f7899c83b43a12.jpg

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3 hours ago, edi malinaric said:

Hi All

The more I think about it, the more I think that one should first glue on the belly, followed by the neck and finally do the back.

cheers edi

 

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Davide's set up is pretty standard. If you need pressure to hold the root of the neck down into the bottom of the  mortise then your joint is not tight enough. Some people say you should be able to string up the instrument with the neck pushed in but not glued. I've never tried that and am a bit skeptical but I  was once varnishing a violin and kept hearing a little tick when ever I picked up the instrument by the neck. Turned out I had been interrupted as I did the final fitting and had carved the neck, done the  final cleanup and started varnishing without realizing that the neck wasn't glued.

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On my first violin, upon completion, I played one note and the neck broke out, revealing a very dry, seemingly glueless joint. I had used too weak glue and not enough. I had also not sized the end grain. 

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On 4/9/2019 at 5:47 PM, Davide Sora said:

 

That clamp is perhaps a bit too big and heavy, but the technique works. Here is mine :

2027348777_DSC_1107rid.thumb.jpg.2ce1db981817f374b8f7899c83b43a12.jpg

Thanks a neat little jig you've got there to hold the dummy bridge in position. Beats my rubber bands through the f holes. 

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If you do do it that way, TRIPLE check the neck angle at several stages during gluing. I usually have a spacer under the FB, to make sure that the angle doesn't drop while the glue sets.

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When I first considered setting the neck after only gluing the belly on the ribs,, I thought there might be too much flexing in the ribs to reproducibly determine the fingerboard projection,  but the structure is quite stable without the back. So it was pretty easy to work on the fitting the neck into the neck block and getting the projection right.

I feel like this method allows you to glue the neck root much more securely because of the ability to properly clamp the neck to the neck block. It also ensures the neck alignment from the dry fitting prior to gluing.  The button end of the neck can now be precisely cut, sanded and planed flat to the ribs for a perfect fit to the back plate.  Something that was much more difficult to accomplish when both plates are already glued to the ribs.

All in all it seems to make fitting the neck a whole lot easier.

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On ‎4‎/‎11‎/‎2019 at 7:24 AM, FiddleDoug said:

If you do do it that way, TRIPLE check the neck angle at several stages during gluing. I usually have a spacer under the FB, to make sure that the angle doesn't drop while the glue sets.

Doug,

Are you sizing the neck root? I 've never had a neck drop while drying. Usually on cellos I put pressure at the top of the clamp toward the lower block to keep them from rising

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