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End button 1mm off enter


Pablo Cuevas
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If you really need to put it in the center to see what happens, file a pair of small grooves (it just takes a couple of nicks, reallly, not a pair of tracks)  in the round part of the saddle, more towards the top,  in the right place and the right distance apart so that the tail gut is centered but the tail gut comes up off the end pin at an angle, and see if you like the difference. Once the grooves are there, if you didn't cut them too deeply you won't have to loosen the strings to click the tail gut back and forth to hear the difference. If you like the change, leave it that way, or fill the hole and redrill where it belongs.. 

 

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How do you know the end pin is off center? Where the two lower bout ribs come together may not be the correct center of the violin. Check to see if the F holes, fingerboard and  bridge are centered properly and then extend this center to the end of the violin to see if the end pin is centered where it now is. You may have already done all this.  The ribs joint could have been off center from the beginning.

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Triangle Strings at https://trianglestrings.com/ has a good discussion (Carving A Violin Bridge) on finding the center of the violin top for the purpose of putting on a new bridge to an existing violin. This process could be used to find the center of the violin in question and then extend it to the lower end of the violin to see where the center should be for the end pin. On a new violin this should hopefully coincide with the top plate seam down the middle and to the rib joining where the end pin is. 

 

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16 minutes ago, Jerry Pasewicz said:

There can be arguments that this is not a bad thing and may be advantageous depending on the neck set and which way the button is off.  That being posted, for 1 mm shaving an endbutton with the shaft slightly off center from the outside button will do the trick.  

Yes, and it's not uncommon to find endbuttons which ended up non-concentric by accident. If an instrument is working well, I mark the orientation of the endbutton so it can go back the same way. If this isn't done, the angles and the afterlenth can change when the endbutton has been removed and re-installed.

For purposes of experimentation, filing offset grooves in the saddle seems like a bit much to me. The tail adjuster can easily be slid a mm or more to one side or the other. If it slides back on its own, a little powdered rosin will take care of that in most instances.

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Which ever "center" "you" are going off of, the only one that matters really is the "structural center" that being regardless of what the actual "visual center" may be that the instrument should not be changed from the structural center.

So if for some reason the pin ended up "off" 1mm, as long as that is the structural center, than that is where it should be, by altering it's  location you may make it look "visually centered" , but will throw off structural center and may damage the instrument over prolonged period of time based on relocating the structural center.

Much like if for whatever reason you were born with 2 5 gal buckets in your hand, if you had 40lbs in one and 45lbs in the other, when you were born, your stance allowed you to compensate for the weight difference, but then someone comes along and adds 5 lbs to the light side, the weight may now be even, but the "stance" or structure you have solidified will now be thrown off.

Basically a plumb bob centered in the middle of the nut/fingerboard will determine the "structural center" When the bob is plumb where ever the point is, that is where the "structual center" is, or wants to be. Moving it off center only weakens the entire structure  by making the "pull" from the strings off center.

The larger/longer the instrument, is the more it will effect things  Like if it were a deck pier support, if it's off 1" in a 3ft rise, it's "bad" building, but won't come crashing down, if it's 1" off in a 30 ft rise, I don't want to hang out down there while you give a dance class on the deck.

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When drilling through the endblock sometimes the bit will hit a hard grain line and wander slightly off center. I have found it better to mark the center line while the block is on the form. I  drill the hole on a drill press and then align the center of the hole and re-glue the block to the form.

A centerline is the first thing established and the rest is built off that benchmark.

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4 minutes ago, lpr5184 said:

When drilling through the endblock sometimes the bit will hit a hard grain line and wander slightly off center. I have found it better to mark the center line while the block is on the form,  drill the hole and then align the center of the hole and re-glue the block to the form.

The centerline is the first thing established and the rest is built from that benchmark.

Yup, rule #1 like a good Buddhist, find and establish your center. Once found, it's all about preserving it through out the build AND that once it's established and carried through, IF the endpin is off a wee, so be it, fudging it to the eye is not always the best thing to do, it might LOOK like it's "centered" but looks don;t matter in this case, staying aligned by not tilting the intensity of the pull in either direction does matter.

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1 hour ago, with_joerg said:

Thanks everyone! Very helpful as always. I wish I could correct the 'enter' in the subject line also but there seems to be no way for mere mortals to do so.

Yes, but it all makes sense when you carve dragon scrolls, that way you can "C-enter the Dragon" :lol:

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For me as a beginner, a lot is not clear yet, but I try very hard. For me, it’s a big job to pinpoint the center when drilling. What drills should be used when drilling, which have good quality and durability. I came across a review of the bits https://drilling-it.com/best-impact-driver-bit-set-reviews/  and I would like to hear a tip for a beginner, is there any sense in acquiring a set of bits or I need to pay off one by one, just by need?

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