Rimino

Varnish Temperature

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6 hours ago, lpr5184 said:

It did for me,... but I use the same type of oil and resin now

Great, I really appreciate all your help, thanks a lot.  I just use cold pressed linseed oil and rosin.  I always safely cook outside and have had the oil pop and snap before.  I’ll do all this and hopefully make nice varnish.

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On ‎3‎/‎16‎/‎2019 at 3:13 AM, Rimino said:

Great, I really appreciate all your help, thanks a lot.  I just use cold pressed linseed oil and rosin.  I always safely cook outside and have had the oil pop and snap before.  I’ll do all this and hopefully make nice varnish.

I don't know if I helped but please follow up and continue to experiment and you will make good varnish.

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21 hours ago, lpr5184 said:

I don't know if I helped but please follow up and continue to experiment and you will make good varnish.

I will follow up.  I’m going to make some this week and I’ll let you know.  I’m going to prepare the rosin this time and heat it to 260c along with the rest of the steps talked about here.

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1 hour ago, Rimino said:

I will follow up.  I’m going to make some this week and I’ll let you know.  I’m going to prepare the rosin this time and heat it to 260c along with the rest of the steps talked about here.

Are you going to add mastic? I do add it at the end of the cook.

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9 hours ago, lpr5184 said:

Are you going to add mastic? I do add it at the end of the cook.

I didn’t think of that, I don’t mean to tire everyone, I will if I can’t get anything els to work but I think I’m going to add Venice turpentine.

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I used to follow Tad Spurgeon's washing method. What a mess. So I switched to Varnish Maker's Linseed oil sold by Woodfinishing Enterprises. It is clean and works like the proverbial charm. 

I squirt a few grams of lime water paste into the hot oil and hot rosin to reduce acidity that attacks most pigments. I posted photos somewhere doing this.

I do not use mastic, but someday I just might do it. So far I have seen no need for it, but I like to experiment. Remember that it burns above 100 C. 

As for the pill, I just shoot for 2 or 3 inches. It's usually one thread. 

The only time I have seen bubbles pop up while brushing was due to cold turpentine thinner. Slightly warmed varnish helps to eliminate volatiles..  I think dirty brushes can be another source. I clean my brushes thoroughly first with turpentine, then wash religiously with Ivory (pure) soap. Smell the brushes for remnants of varnish. The brushes must also be completely dried before using. Another test for clean brushes is to flick the bristles in bright sunlight to see whether any dust flies away.  I store the brushes in a large closed jar. As my high school chemistry teacher taught: Cleanliness is next to godliness. 

Be patient and expect setbacks. It's a learning process.

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3 hours ago, Michael_Molnar said:

I used to follow Tad Spurgeon's washing method. What a mess. So I switched to Varnish Maker's Linseed oil sold by Woodfinishing Enterprises. It is clean and works like the proverbial charm. 

It says the oil is refined to removed the break but doesn't say how.  I'd rather know how the oil was refined but if you find it works then $45.00 a gallon is a steal. Does this oil contain driers? Kremer also sells a varnish makers oil. I tried it and had bad results. I see they are no longer selling it.

https://woodfinishingenterprises.com/shop/oils/varnish-makers-linseed-oil/

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3 hours ago, Michael_Molnar said:

Slightly warmed varnish helps to eliminate volatiles

 

3 hours ago, Michael_Molnar said:

So I switched to Varnish Maker's Linseed oil

I’ll try warming the varnish when I apply it, and if I have to I’ll buy this varnish makers oil.

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6 minutes ago, Rimino said:

I’ll try warming the varnish when I apply it, and if I have to I’ll buy this varnish makers oil.

If the Wood Finishing varnish makers oil works I would recommend that you use it. It will save you time and expense. Salt, sand and water washing is messy, time consuming hard work but it gives the results I'm after. To each his own.

 

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1 hour ago, lpr5184 said:

It says the oil is refined to removed the break but doesn't say how.  I'd rather know how the oil was refined but if you find it works then $45.00 a gallon is a steal. Does this oil contain driers? Kremer also sells a varnish makers oil. I tried it and had bad results. I see they are no longer selling it.

https://woodfinishingenterprises.com/shop/oils/varnish-makers-linseed-oil/

No driers, although calcium in lime is a weak drier

i order one or two quarts at time.

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50 minutes ago, Michael_Molnar said:

No driers, although calcium in lime is a weak drier

i order one or two quarts at time.

I assume it's modern refined like other artist's linseed oil? Thanks for the info, I may try it.

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On 3/16/2019 at 10:42 PM, lpr5184 said:

please follow up

 

 

On 3/18/2019 at 9:13 AM, Michael_Molnar said:

Be patient and expect setbacks. It's a learning process

Thanks everyone for all this help.I tried Venetian turpentine but it produced bubbles too when applied.  I will try the varnishmakers oil from Wood Finishing Enterprises and then Mastic.  Is it ok to bring up this same thread when I try these, or a new thread?

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42 minutes ago, Rimino said:

 

 

Thanks everyone for all this help.I tried Venetian turpentine but it produced bubbles too when applied.  I will try the varnishmakers oil from Wood Finishing Enterprises and then Mastic.  Is it ok to bring up this same thread when I try these, or a new thread?

Good luck and post on this thread.

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