Stephen Faulk Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 I need to make a crimped liners tool. Has anyone ever made, or seen a good way to make a basic hand tool for creating crimped liners? A modified set of pliers? A toothed thing to use in a vise? Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Dorsey Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 What is a crimped liner? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Violadamore Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 18 minutes ago, Brad Dorsey said: What is a crimped liner? Stephen explains it here: https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/340189-ｆirst-violin-maker-to-use-guitar-linings/ It's a guitar-maker's technique. 1 hour ago, Stephen Faulk said: I need to make a crimped liners tool. Has anyone ever made, or seen a good way to make a basic hand tool for creating crimped liners? A modified set of pliers? A toothed thing to use in a vise? Any ideas? Have you tried jewelers chain-nose pliers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andreas Preuss Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 What about using the rounded edge of a steel plate and hammering it? Just an idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad Dorsey Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 54 minutes ago, Violadamore said: Stephen explains it here: https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/340189-ｆirst-violin-maker-to-use-guitar-linings/ It's a guitar-maker's technique. Have you tried jewelers chain-nose pliers? Do you mean that a crimped liner the same as a kerfed lining? If yes, why would jeweler's chain-nose pliers help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkBouquet Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 Stephen, I had to read your description to know what a crimped liner was. Having done that, how about making a die that chucks in your drill press? Then the drill press depth stop can regulate the depth of the impression. And I think you could work fairly quickly with that too, which can be helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi malinaric Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 Hi All - interesting thread. The engineer in me immediately thought of converting the hand-cranked bicycle rim roller in my workshop (wheel rims for recumbent bicycles - another interest from decades ago) and using a sharp toothed gear to form the indentations. ..... - but then sanity prevailed - steaming linings is so quick - and relatively painless. cheers edi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle duke Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 Drill press idea sounds fine to me. Production will be key. What are you working on, the new Jose Lopez model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiddleDoug Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 Just get an anvil pruner, and reshape the blade, or put a stop on it, so that it doesn't cut all the way through. Sharp blade on one jaw, and flat on the other, Should be perfect. https://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Smooth-Action-Anvil-Pruner/dp/B0084721ZI/ref=sr_1_13/132-0911259-4165329?ie=UTF8&qid=1541855955&sr=8-13&keywords=anvil+pruners Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi malinaric Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 6 hours ago, edi malinaric said: Hi All - interesting thread. The engineer in me immediately thought of converting the hand-cranked bicycle rim roller in my workshop (wheel rims for recumbent bicycles - another interest from decades ago) and using a sharp toothed gear to form the indentations. ..... - but then sanity prevailed - steaming linings is so quick - and relatively painless. cheers edi Just to get things into perspective What's the problem? cheers edi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Faulk Posted November 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 I'm thinking about making a copy on an instrument with crimped liners and the crimpyness needs to be part of the copy. I've only got to make about 6 feet of it so leaning towards the idea of the vise outfitted with a metal 'tooth' to press the crimp... I remembered that once I saw a tool that looked like a mill that you hand cranked the wood through and a tooth or gear thing pressed the crimp. But I don't need to make a production tool, just a one off. I'll work up something and show it for comment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Faulk Posted November 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 This is the liner I'll copy, the bottom liner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi malinaric Posted November 10, 2018 Report Share Posted November 10, 2018 Hi Stephen - let me have the dimensions of the lining, the centre-to-centre of the "crimps", their width and depth. Also does the depth of the crimp vary with the radius curvature? cheers edi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Faulk Posted November 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 I wouldn't ordinarily bother anyone with my lowbrow guitar problems, but somewhere I remember seeing trade basses with crimped liners and thought it might be a thing. These liners are about 1/2" tall and 4 mm thick...if you must know Edi. The regular liners I make are identical to cello liners, about 3 mm thick and 20 mm tall...more or less. They are smooth. Most guitar lining is smooth or kerfed. This one I want to copy happens to use crimped liners and while it's not a big deal, but I want to cross the 't's and dot the i's on this one because going to show it to some picky old fart. And he won't buy it, but someone else will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi malinaric Posted November 11, 2018 Report Share Posted November 11, 2018 Hi Stephen - being "bi-lingual", I can relate to inches and millimetres :-). How about the center spacing, width and depth of the crimps? After all if one is going to make a copy, why not aim for perfection? cheers edi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Faulk Posted November 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 I don't know exactly I'm working for that photo. I know the height is 1/2" and thickness is 4 mm and that's all. So it looks like the center to center is about 1/2" They aren't going to measure it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edi malinaric Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 4 hours ago, Stephen Faulk said: I don't know exactly I'm working for that photo. I know the height is 1/2" and thickness is 4 mm and that's all. So it looks like the center to center is about 1/2" They aren't going to measure it. Hi Stephen - understood. Let me haul out the rim roller and see whether a quickish mod will do the trick. cheers edi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Conor Russell Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 John Macintosh, who worked in Dublin till 1840 and then moved back to Scotland to become a recluse, simply bent his linings over his thumbnails, two little thumbnail marks every quarter inch or so. I think if you just press something hard into the spruce, enough to just kink the fibres, it'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiddlecollector Posted November 12, 2018 Report Share Posted November 12, 2018 You could just use a pair of parallel anvil pliers like in the image and fix a piece of half round bar to the middle of one of the jaws,should work ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen Faulk Posted November 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2018 On 11/12/2018 at 7:11 PM, Conor Russell said: John Macintosh, who worked in Dublin till 1840 and then moved back to Scotland to become a recluse, simply bent his linings over his thumbnails, two little thumbnail marks every quarter inch or so. I think if you just press something hard into the spruce, enough to just kink the fibres, it'll be fine. I have hard thumbnails, but my nail beds are not up to the task.......there's a joke there somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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