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Pablo Cuevas

Plane for plate joining

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I use an Irwin No 9 for joining the plates. Works OK. I saw however that most of you use bigger planes. I am now thinking about getting either an Irwin No 5 or a No 7. Esp. the No 7 seems huge to me. What plane size are you using?

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I'm sure you can use anything but for flattening surfaces the bigger the better.  I use a number 7 and have a very slight camber to the edge.

Chacun a son gout :)

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1 hour ago, Muswell said:

I'm sure you can use anything but for flattening surfaces the bigger the better.  I use a number 7 and have a very slight camber to the edge.

Chacun a son gout :)

Exactly!

I use  a big Stanley n7 to prepare the pieces and a small 9 1/2 stanley to finish the surfaces to be glued, even for cellos.

Both with rectified sole, brand new does not work well for precision cuts.

Samurai blade on the 9 1/2.

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26 minutes ago, with_joerg said:

So in essence from what I hear the No 5 is too big unless you make a Cello?

No. In fact many people would say it's too small. It would be fine for a violin.

I use either a 5 1/2 or a 6 depending on which way the wind is blowing.

Wouldn't recommend an Irwin plane. 

 

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Weapons of choice the beast at the back is by Edward Preston the smaller low angle one is hand made of unknown origin , I think my violin obsession has now overtaken my woodwork tools obsession

IMG_5220.PNG

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I dont think you really need anything bigger than a no6 for cello. Ive had all sorts of expensive planes and now just use a Quangsheng no 6 (Chinese but good quality at least mine works perfectly ). More expensive than an Irwin which are poor versions of the old Records.  For small stuff i just use a small Lie neilsen 102, Quangsheng even do versions of these and they are a fraction of the cost and look very nice.

https://www.workshopheaven.com/hand-tools/hand-planes/quangsheng-planes.html

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13 minutes ago, Urban Luthier said:

I use a no 7 lee valley jointing plane, flat blade and a shooting board. 3-4 passes, glue right away, rub joint. no clamps. 

Alwyas thought using a shooting board for this task might be fun, but never tried it. Would you be willing to post a photo of your setup? 

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I use an old Stanley #8.  Independent of the size of plane and blade,  what is just as important  is a  true and flat bottom sole.

 You can have the sole milled back to flat at a machine shop if necessary—this will solve a lot of problems.

 

IMG_1108.jpg

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3 hours ago, JohnCockburn said:

No. In fact many people would say it's too small. It would be fine for a violin.

I use either a 5 1/2 or a 6 depending on which way the wind is blowing.

Wouldn't recommend an Irwin plane. 

 

I guess us #6 guys are in the minority. 

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So it doesn't appear anyone uses power tools as in a joiner.  Is this because Strad didn't do it that way or is it because you all have more experience than I and really know better using hand tools.  I was thinking to run both pieces of the front across my joiner to flatten out the back then run it across the joiner with that finished surface to the fence to join where the two pieces are glued. Comments PLEASE!

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12 hours ago, Nick Allen said:

I guess us #6 guys are in the minority. 

+1 old trusty Stanley-Bailey #6 here as well (with beautiful Brazilian rosewood handles)

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7 hours ago, Amateur Maker said:

So it doesn't appear anyone uses power tools as in a joiner.  Is this because Strad didn't do it that way or is it because you all have more experience than I and really know better using hand tools.  I was thinking to run both pieces of the front across my joiner to flatten out the back then run it across the joiner with that finished surface to the fence to join where the two pieces are glued. Comments PLEASE!

I always finished boards with the hand plane after using the planer, and that was just for furniture.  Apart from anything else I would be a bit suspicious about the cutting action which pounds the surface, hence planer ripple when it is extreme.

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14 hours ago, Muswell said:

I always finished boards with the hand plane after using the planer, and that was just for furniture.  Apart from anything else I would be a bit suspicious about the cutting action which pounds the surface, hence planer ripple when it is extreme.

Curly maple doesn't plane well on power planer (unless you have the new helical cutter heads).

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On 11/4/2018 at 12:35 PM, Terry Colley said:

Weapons of choice the beast at the back is by Edward Preston the smaller low angle one is hand made of unknown origin , I think my violin obsession has now overtaken my woodwork tools obsession

IMG_5220.PNG

These infill planes are gorgeous! 
How do they compare to the Stanley type?
I imagine they've got a bit more weight to work with. 

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The big plane at the back is 15 1/2 inches long and weighs in at 8 pounds , is a treat to use, I have an old stanley 4 1/2 with the low knob which I use all the time , then again I probably have more planes than I need tried selling some end up getting others that cross my path same with violins got nine at the moment ,one is more than enough

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