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New Article By Adam Goltry......Fixing a Broken Button


PASEWICZ
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46 minutes ago, Brad Dorsey said:

Jerry,  These articles are great.  Why do we have to sign in now to view them on your website?

All we need is a verified email.  We are willing to make them available to anyone, however, I would like to know the popularity and hopefully the reach of the various articles.   

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5 hours ago, Televet said:

Former holder of the office. 

Ah, they got rid of him then, didums;)

 

First I was wondering what “Clavette” means. Is it even an English word? It certainly isn’t in my vocabulary.

 

To the repair method itself:
It was diffucult to read as presented, even with my extra strong sound-post glasses. I was taught this method as a teenager, as the cheap version, if one was restrained from opening the instrument out of pecuniary reasons, and have always know it as the “false button” method. It is quite an old method, since it was used even before the first word war, by, for instance the Jaura workshop.

 

I posted what I consider a much superior method several years ago here (and in the adjacent post) https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/330042-violin-id-and-repair-advice/&do=findComment&comment=617534

The method I showed is possibly even quicker, although one needs to take the back off (no big deal if the button if off, and the neck out anyway) since it is inherently invisible, and requires no re-touching whatsoever.

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2 hours ago, jacobsaunders said:

Ah, they got rid of him then, didums;)

 

First I was wondering what “Clavette” means. Is it even an English word? It certainly isn’t in my vocabulary.

 

To the repair method itself:
It was diffucult to read as presented, even with my extra strong sound-post glasses. I was taught this method as a teenager, as the cheap version, if one was restrained from opening the instrument out of pecuniary reasons, and have always know it as the “false button” method. It is quite an old method, since it was used even before the first word war, by, for instance the Jaura workshop.

 

I posted what I consider a much superior method several years ago here (and in the adjacent post) https://maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/330042-violin-id-and-repair-advice/&do=findComment&comment=617534

The method I showed is possibly even quicker, although one needs to take the back off (no big deal if the button if off, and the neck out anyway) since it is inherently invisible, and requires no re-touching whatsoever.

Thanks for your input Jacob.  Speaking as someone that has done both methods, it seems your judgment is as lacking as your vocabulary and your eyesight.  B)

 

- If you are having trouble reading the article, you can maximize your screen, no need for your special glasses.

- Yes the button is a weak point when removing a back, but it is hardly the only danger.  Backs being often flamed, removing them from the blocks can cause that flame to tear out leaving large chunks of wood behind, or even a hole.  Removing a back on a whim is not good practice when other avenues are available.

- Yes, the method you describe hides the reinforcement, but it is not accurate to say that it is without touchup.  When resetting a neck there is ALWAYS touchup needed as there is ALWAYS a reason why the neck let loose.  Whether you are adding wood to improve the joint, nail the measurements, or just to keep from removing wood from the button, there is always touchup needed.

- No, there is no reasonable argument to be made that removing a back, gluing the old button, making a cast, joining a patch piece, excavating the original, fitting the patch, gluing the patch, cutting down the patch,  regluing the back, and finally setting the neck is a faster way to go.

- Yes, I guess you can say they got rid of me.  The organization has term limits built into the bylaws, so they must have had a heads up in 1980 that I would eventually be president and that anything beyond 2 years would be a disaster....

 

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13 hours ago, Jerry Pasewicz said:

All we need is a verified email.  We are willing to make them available to anyone, however, I would like to know the popularity and hopefully the reach of the various articles.  

Are you sure we won't be signing up for a 3-year subscription to one rehair per month, automatically billed to our credit cards? :ph34r:

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55 minutes ago, Jerry Pasewicz said:

Thanks for your input Jacob.  Speaking as someone that has done both methods, it seems your judgment is as lacking as your vocabulary and your eyesight.  B)

 

 

Having thought it through carefully a couple of times, I am even more sure of my „judgment“ than ever. I don’t like my extra strong soundpost glasses though. Perhaps I should take Rogers advice, and get a monical.

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7 minutes ago, jacobsaunders said:

Having thought it through carefully a couple of times, I am even more sure of my „judgment“ than ever. I don’t like my extra strong soundpost glasses though. Perhaps I should take Rogers advice, and get a monical.

 

Indeed, I bet you are.  You have never struck me as being one to admit flawed judgement.

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Excellent, and well illustrated!

I would only suggest to add a technical drawing with a cross section in south-north direction to illustrate the depth of the clavette related to top block thickness and purfling. (Something like 'good' and 'not good'.)

And maybe one word what to do when the cracked sides at the button don't refit cleanly because of previous repair work. 

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