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John Goblin

Inverted pegbox, hollow scroll, smaller blocks

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Hi everyone. I have built my first violin. Not in the most elegant way maybe, but I had a rather limited setup of tools. The sound is rather evenly dynamic between strings/tunes but somewhat loud and sharp. Using a mute results in a more normal violin sound. I chose to give it a couple of untraditionally attributes, for instance inverted pegbox, hollow scroll, large nut, and less prominent corner blocks. I will work on modifications to come closer to the sound I like.

Would appreciate comments/tips. What do you think will be the most effective way of making the sound softer? Like with a mute, but without the mute and least possible loss of dynamics. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yF_L48biuyQ

vadur.jpg

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Okay, kiddies, our word for the day is goblinesque;) [Couldn't resist. :lol:]

Absolutely beautiful workmanship.  How does it sound?  (That last would help us with answering your question.)  Could you post a clip of it being played?  :)

 

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8 hours ago, Nick Allen said:

I can say for one thing the strings are a quarter mile off of the fingerboard at the nut. 

Thank you. Adjusted with a mousetail file, now the centers of the strings about 1 mm above the fingerboard.

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5 hours ago, Brad Dorsey said:

I love the ram.  I can't imagine how you fit the sound post.

I can assure that was a bit of a challenge :) I found out that using pliers for laparoscopic surgery was the best way to get it in a decent position. I'm afraid I have to adjust some regarding the soundpost since it is not perfectly angled to the top/bottom.

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5 hours ago, Violadamore said:

Okay, kiddies, our word for the day is goblinesque;) [Couldn't resist. :lol:]

Absolutely beautiful workmanship.  How does it sound?  (That last would help us with answering your question.)  Could you post a clip of it being played?  :)

 

Thank you! I really like the word goblinesque :) I will give you a recording as soon as possible.

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17 hours ago, Nick Allen said:

Are those standard violin strings? If so, the height may be measured from the bottom of the string. A feeler gauge set works well for setting nut string heights. 

Thanks. I use Larsen strings, medium ones, standard dimensions I guess. So you mean one should measure about 1 mm from fingerboard to the the lowest point (closest to fingerboard) of the string for all 4 strings?

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1 hour ago, Juan Tavira said:

Did I see a black bridge in the video? Did you carve it by yourself? Which wood?

I love the scroll, I'm looking for a new scroll design and I can say that rulez!

Juan

Thank you, really glad to hear you like  the scroll. My zodiac is aries, and "Vädur" is the swedish word for ram. The nose of the ram works very well as a hanger. :) You saw correct! Feels little unprofessional, but wanted a black bridge for some reason, and found out that maple seems to be optimal material for a bridge. So, I simply painted it with a permanent marker pen. The colour layer is extremely thin so I guess it doesn't affect the sound much. An unexpected advantage was that I can use a lot of graphite under the string without getting a messy impression since you can't distinguish the marker colour from the graphite. The blank is a very standard precut one, not cheap, not expensive. 

Edited by John Goblin

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10 hours ago, John Goblin said:

Thanks. I use Larsen strings, medium ones, standard dimensions I guess. So you mean one should measure about 1 mm from fingerboard to the the lowest point (closest to fingerboard) of the string for all 4 strings?

No. 1mm is far too high from the bottom of the string. String heights do have an accepted range to dwell in, which is very small. 

But I've heard that a good place to start is 1/2 of the string thickness. 

I aim for .5 for the G, .45 for D and A, and .3 for the E for the Dominants that I use. 

But you'll find that not every brand, tension, composition or player likes the same thing. 

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