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RedneckEngineer Fred

The Back is Cracked!

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Pics would help clarify this immensely.  One of the issues in dealing with a true full length cracks of either the top or the back, is that if you are not careful, one side tends to "grow" (or they both do a little) as the arching relaxes as the pieces are removed from the ribs - if they haven't already. If you can stabilize both ends of a stem to stern split (they align), do so and remove the back.  

Edit:  If I think removing back has the potential to muck up the area around the button, I'll remove other things to ensure that I can safely get at the crack. 

If the whole thing is a train wreck, and you need to remove top and back, or top, back, and neck from the ribs, for co-morbidities suffered from an accident,  I'd probably start by removing something else first anyways.    There's almost always another problem...

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Dear Friends, thank you for your thoughts.  The crack seems to go from top purfling to bottom purfling and is just barely opened.  So I was wondering about removing the top rather than disturbing the back, injecting some thin hide glue, pulling the crack together with body clamps, and finishing off with cleats after glue in the crack has dried.  Hopefully I can arrach the pictures I took of it.

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On factory made violins always depends.. Also what kind of glue was used although if was used hide glue, doesn't mean its easy. To avoid troubles I wouldn't remove neither the back or the top...

 

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On 5/10/2018 at 9:43 AM, RedneckEngineer Fred said:

injecting some thin hide glue, pulling the crack together with body clamps, and finishing off with cleats after glue in the crack has dried.

As you said here..

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