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removing fingerboard


keyboardclass
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You could put it under a 100 watt light bulb-be careful of the varnish-and warm the remaining piece enough to soften the glue and work a spatula under from the scroll end and lift it off.

Careful not to: 1-bubble the varnish with the heat, 2-break the neck. Force nothing. That is what has already happened.

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31 minutes ago, keyboardclass said:

I have some pure alcohol so that may come in useful.

Hi Keyboardclass - the alcohol works by dehydrating the glue. If the glue is under some stress it lets go with a sharpish "craack". If the pure alcohol has been around for a while it might have picked up moisture from the air. If yours  doesn't appear to have any effect it might be worth to visit the local pharmacy for a fresh lot.  Buy it in the smallest bottle possible - or decant it yourself into mini-bottles. Store in a cool dark place.

Make a wooden "punch" that matches the curve of the fingerboard and is a good fit against the nut. Position it and give it a sharpish tap with a hammer. The nut should fly off. Important note:  - keep your eyes on its trajectory and pick it up immediately - don't ask why!

Now you have access to the end face of the f/b.

Run a drop of alcohol in the corner of the neck and f/b. Best to use a syringe with needle.

Then wedge a thin palette knife between f/b and neck and get it to let a drop of alcohol fall onto the palette knife. Guide it to the glue line and wait 20 seconds or so. Give the palette knife a softish tap with a tack hammer or rock it backwards and forwards. Add another drop of alcohol and repeat. repeat repeat. Make haste slowly.

Another method that I have been using more and more is to use a hot air gun - but that has been mainly for non-hide glue joints. It's a bit on the risky side but it done carefully results in less damage. If you want to try this - first wrap the body in a double layer of bathrobe or something similar to keep the hot air away from it. Also prepare a 20mm "dummy" f/b and have it and three clamps to hand before starting to heat things. This is so that, immediately after removal of the f/b, you can clamp it onto the neck to keep the neck straight while it cools back to room temperature.

Best of luck - edi

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23 minutes ago, keyboardclass said:

 It's just a cheap Medio-Fino 3/4 but I think it seems to sound better than a cheap Chinese so worth a little effort.

Hey - less of that "just a cheap Medio-Fino".

For 70 years now I have been trying to saw it's big brother cello in half. The former principal cellist tried it out once and immediately made me an offer for it. He seemed disappointed when I demurred. It will only come on the market after I die.

Watch this space :-)

cheers edi

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" I'll have to look into getting a plane."

You appear to be woefully under equipped and under trained for this type of work. Sanding the neck here, and running the FB blank on a belt sander are not good things. Sanding the neck here won't give you a flat neck if there's any warp or bow in it. Using a belt sander on the FB blank won't guarantee you a flat matching surface, and you really need a plane to get the correct profile on the top of the board.

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Really,, at least get some scrapers,, broken glass,,,old high carbon butcher knifes make the most excellent scrapers,,,,

if you have to use sandpaper,, mount it on a flat piece of something that is flat,, that is not as wide as the neck,, then never get to the edge,,try to keep it in the middle,, an push it in the middle not on the sides.

Lots can be done with sandpaper but it is a skill not many have,  people are scared for you and your reputation.:lol::lol::lol:

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On 18/4/2018 at 7:47 PM, keyboardclass said:

I was recently given this 'as is'.  Any tips on removing the fingerboard?  Thanks folks. 

medio.JPG

Put it on the belt sander. :lol: 

Looking at the way the wood splits, I would remove the upper nut and start from that end with an opening knife. If it doesn't budge you can always do as suggested by cutting away 99% and soaking off the remaining bits with water and some paper towel.

Edited by Bruce Carlson
readability and additional information
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5 hours ago, lpr5184 said:

Don't forget the safety issue when removing a fingerboard.. it's a good idea to wear gloves in case the knife slips.

5ad93d28480a1_FingerboardCut.jpg.a861736f3ba1cd49613328bb690883ea.jpg

Hi lpr5184  - "removing a fingerboard?" looks like poor character recognition - that's a finger!

Did your doctor do a rubbed joint?

Reminds me of a few that I have carried around - never on my hands thank goodness.

I have this tendency to join into dogfights. Why should they have all the fun? The last couple I impressed my GP by removing the stitches myself.

cheers edi

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6 hours ago, lpr5184 said:

Don't forget the safety issue when removing a fingerboard.. it's a good idea to wear gloves in case the knife slips.

5ad93d28480a1_FingerboardCut.jpg.a861736f3ba1cd49613328bb690883ea.jpg

I see violinmakers don't like to use CA glue at all...

I've got scar just like that on the same thumb (I don't remember the dumb mistake I did)  but instead of chasing doc I just held it together with index finger and few drops of CA worked wonders....

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48 minutes ago, David Burgess said:

Ever dropped a razor-sharp cutting tool in your lap? :o

I tend to wear jeans and use either apron or at least large cloth on my lap to catch the shavings when sitting... but from what I see in your avatar your shop dress is a bit less protective LOL.

lpr, how did your finger heal? I'm left with barely wisible 1" long line (it's been few years back) but I lost some of the feel in that area...

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