Brad H Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 I have never tried one of these and would appreciate any comments from those who have. I have the top off on a violin whose projection is 2mm on the high side. Here is what I am contemplating. - Remove 0.5mm(?) from the back side of the table neck cut out. - Glue the table in its normal position from the bottom block up to, but not including, the upper blocks on each side - After the glue has dried, apply a force on the neck/FB to lower the projection and glue the rest of the seams and the upper block. (here is where I wish I had one of those upper block gluing clamps to ensure good contact between table and block). Any comments or suggestions? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
duane88 Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 Take off the fingerboard and plane the neck down to lower the projection. I've never been a fan of pulling the neck down. Either a little off the neck and a little off the board, or a reverse wedge would be my suggestion. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
~ Ben Conover Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 What projection do you have now and what are you aiming for. if the neck thickness and over stand allow it, you could just plane a little off the neck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brad H Posted February 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 Yeah, I don't have enough wood to plane the neck to lower the projection. And I have already done all I can with the FB. Current projection is 29mm. 13 minutes ago, duane88 said: I've never been a fan of pulling the neck down. Are you concerned that the pull-down won't stay down? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PASEWICZ Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 7 minutes ago, Brad H said: Yeah, I don't have enough wood to plane the neck to lower the projection. And I have already done all I can with the FB. Current projection is 29mm. Are you concerned that the pull-down won't stay down? What is the overstand, where is the violin from, and how old is it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
~ Ben Conover Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 New violin ? It might come down 1.5 in a year. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brad H Posted February 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 It is a German factory 1920's(?) violin. The overstand is just under 5mm from table edge. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
~ Ben Conover Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 Well, you could proceed as you intended perhaps use closing clamps to hold the lower bouts in place, so that you can glue the top on in one go, or get it right if it doesn't work first time.....since your guestimate of 0.5mm off the table neck mortice may not be exact. if the table is in good condition at the neck root then you may not need a special under the f/b clamp anyway....you could also use a wedge under the f/b I spose. Your call. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PASEWICZ Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 9 minutes ago, Brad H said: It is a German factory 1920's(?) violin. The overstand is just under 5mm from table edge. Sorry to hear that. I have never liked, or have done, neck pull downs. Maybe someone else has expertise with these. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brad H Posted February 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 13 minutes ago, ~ Ben Conover said: Well, you could proceed as you intended perhaps use closing clamps to hold the lower bouts in place, so that you can glue the top on in one go, or get it right if it doesn't work first time.....since your guestimate of 0.5mm off the table neck mortice may not be exact. Good suggestion. I'll start with maybe 0.25mm and see what that gets me. Thanks for all comments. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Burgess Posted February 16, 2018 Report Share Posted February 16, 2018 1 hour ago, Brad H said: I have never tried one of these and would appreciate any comments from those who have. I have the top off on a violin whose projection is 2mm on the high side. Here is what I am contemplating. - Remove 0.5mm(?) from the back side of the table neck cut out. - Glue the table in its normal position from the bottom block up to, but not including, the upper blocks on each side - After the glue has dried, apply a force on the neck/FB to lower the projection and glue the rest of the seams and the upper block. (here is where I wish I had one of those upper block gluing clamps to ensure good contact between table and block). Any comments or suggestions? There are lots of options for either raising or lowering the "neck projection". Without having the violin in my hands and considering all the variables, I couldn't say which would be best. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chungviolins Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 If the arch is high, then neck reset is the best option. 5mm overstand is too low if the arch height is 15 or so. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
chungviolins Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 I do reverse, pulling neck up. Pulling down doesn't work like pulling up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Marty Kasprzyk Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 Make a new bridge 2 mm higher. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nathan slobodkin Posted February 17, 2018 Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 I have done this kind of pull down and aside from the difficulty of cutting back the top with the violin assembled (not an issue in this case) I have never seen any problems with it. I would try to do your final gluing of the top with strings tuned to tension while measuring neck pitch as would also be done with a neck being pulled up. However if there are other problems such as an apuis that is too low you might just bite the bullet and reset the neck. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brad H Posted February 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2018 Thanks for all the input. 1 hour ago, nathan slobodkin said: aside from the difficulty of cutting back the top with the violin assembled Yeah, that does sound difficult. 1 hour ago, nathan slobodkin said: I would try to do your final gluing of the top with strings tuned to tension while measuring neck pitch as would also be done with a neck being pulled up. I can see the benefit of doing this on the pull down. But, for the pull up, it would seem to make the task of getting the shim in place more difficult. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nathan slobodkin Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 Brad , Specially made sideways dogleg chisel can get under the finger board. Still a real pain but doable. The shim goes in first before the instrument is strung up then glue applied, instrument tuned to tension and clamps applied. If this is not done the neck will tend to drop again over time. Rene's method. I'm surprised Jerry did not encounter neck pull downs at Rene's I know I did several. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PASEWICZ Posted February 18, 2018 Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 1 hour ago, nathan slobodkin said: Brad , Specially made sideways dogleg chisel can get under the finger board. Still a real pain but doable. The shim goes in first before the instrument is strung up then glue applied, instrument tuned to tension and clamps applied. If this is not done the neck will tend to drop again over time. Rene's method. I'm surprised Jerry did not encounter neck pull downs at Rene's I know I did several. I may have mis-stated, when I have done them it was only a matter of removing the previous shim. As a matter of fact, we use ebony for projection raises so the removal is easier, cleaner, and there is no doubt where the shim ends and the top begins when the neck is finally re-set. In the same vein, button clavettes are oriented so medullary rays match the back and not the neck for the same reason. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brad H Posted February 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2018 I did the pull-down, the violin is strung up again, and the FB projection is now 28 mm. At this point, I can not perceive any problems with the procedure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nathan slobodkin Posted February 19, 2018 Report Share Posted February 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Brad H said: I did the pull-down, the violin is strung up again, and the FB projection is now 28 mm. At this point, I can not perceive any problems with the procedure. Cool! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
baroquecello Posted February 19, 2018 Report Share Posted February 19, 2018 A very silly question. What is the Problem with a somewhat high projection? A low projection makes bowing difficult, and sometimes is detrimental to the Sound, but a high projection shouldn't cause the Player Problems, should it. Does the increased pressure on the belly cause structural damage on the Long run, or does it choke the Sound? Why wouldn't one just leave it as it is and hope for a 2 mm drop over the Course of the coming centuries? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
nathan slobodkin Posted February 19, 2018 Report Share Posted February 19, 2018 Definitely bad for sound . Maybe too much downward tension maybe because of overly high bridge but usually an overly tight thin obnoxious sound. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.