Nick Allen

Nick Allen's Bench.

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Also I just took a huge shot of lycopodium to the face by accident. I was closing the bag, and I had the foolish idea to try and squeeze out the excess air. I forgot how fine and light the powder is and it shot straight into my face. 

I hope it's not going to kill me, because now I have a headache. 

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On 9/30/2018 at 7:36 AM, Nick Allen said:

Had to push the C peg hole on the viola. Used some homemade bushings. Making them wasn't as much of a PITA as I thought. 

At this stage it's not. It's when you have to watch out for existing varnish and then match colors that it's a PITA.  ;) 

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After the VSA, I've been focusing on things I don't normally. 

The back that I am finishing up right now.

I'm doing some tap tones with it. 

From what I can remember earlier, M2 came in at 162hz, and M5 came in at about 380hz. 

I'm not going to pretend that I know what any of that has to do with a good sounding violin. But I tried to dabble with tap tones, and I'll experiment a little more with the top plate. 

I've also sized the blocks (actually remembered this time) and pre glued the rib edges, which I will let dry, knock down with a file, and then re activate while gluing with hot water. 

I still have to bevel the plate edges underneath before I do that, though. 

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IMG_20181116_021020.jpg

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9 minutes ago, Andreas Preuss said:

Nick, has your dammar vanish this orange color? 

Ah. I misspoke. The color layer is a few layers of concentrated pigmented varnish. The damar is the last clear coat. I wish that it was colored like that by itself. 

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Alright. So it's been a while since I've updated. I've finished the back/ribs on the current violin. The top is getting purfled at the moment, and the f holes are layed(laid?) out.

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Is it just your camera angle or is your top from two different billets?  Not that there's anything wrong with that.  A piece of bicycle inner tube works for holding the endpin as well.

Cheers,

Jim

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3 hours ago, Jim Bress said:

Is it just your camera angle or is your top from two different billets?  Not that there's anything wrong with that.  A piece of bicycle inner tube works for holding the endpin as well.

Cheers,

Jim

You have a very keen eye my friend. It's a master grade piece on the bass side and a character grade on the treble. It's just what I had lying around as the odd-men-out of my wood stash. I'm saving the better matching pieces for when I make better fiddles lol. 

I think I'm gonna compensate the grads slightly to make up for the many winter growth rings on the treble side by thinning it slightly more there, making a subtle asymmetrical grad scheme. 

Thanks for the tip. I should be able to procure some old inner tube easily. 

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The image of the button holder doesn't show up for me, but in the catalog it look very cool.  Reasonable price for a nicely machined thingy.  I'd get one if I needed it, but I don't, since I use a lathe for all my pegs and endpins.

Here's the referenced holder:

8D-4911.jpg

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7 hours ago, Don Noon said:

The image of the button holder doesn't show up for me, but in the catalog it look very cool.  Reasonable price for a nicely machined thingy.  I'd get one if I needed it, but I don't, since I use a lathe for all my pegs and endpins.

Here's the referenced holder:

8D-4911.jpg

Hmm. A lathe? I guess if you are good at matching the taper then that's a good method. I've thought of it before, but I don't have too much confidence in my turning skills. 

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6 hours ago, Michael_Molnar said:

I recently purchased that button holder and like it. I am thinking of lining it with thin felt or cork to avoid marring the button if the grip slips.

That's not a bad idea either. But I wonder if surgical tubing would work too. 

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Your work looks real nice.

I would be careful of making decisions for the graduations based on the grain of the wood alone.

I have seen coarse grain to be tough strong and light, with lots of stiffness across the grain,( 90o perpendicular),,,and I've seen it soft and spongy. The same thing with the fine grain. You cannot tell wood properties by the look, there is no look. There are boundaries and borders,,, such as, almost invisible grain lines, or big  wide and dark hard grain, both are undesirable,, there is some beautiful looking wood that is junk.

It looks like a stripe of sapwood in the center. Do both pieces feel the same under the scraper? Was the sizzle the same all over? Could you tell with your eyes closed which side you were on? Was there an obvious difference? Sometimes sap wood can feel a bit different than the rest of the wood. It is not necessarily bad. Once you get past the sapwood in a tree ,,,the rest of the wood is 20 to 40 or more years old. My favorite tree has all the sapwood on it, No Worms! It looks exactly like your piece, I purchased a fresh tree and it took a while for the sapwood to harden up. (I'm not saying there is anything wrong with it.)

I'm just saying to watch it, feel it, flex it,,, tap it, do what it needs, not based on predetermined judgements or looks alone.

So I wondered whether to give this rant,,,or not,,, what the heck, I've ruined enough of them blindly running along allowing the rule of good knocks to educate me,          

How would you like your education, Over easy, sunny side up, or burned to a crisp. I've fried a few things, scrapped a few things trashed a few things, I don't seem to mind, I learn this way,, but some folks do not like to take any chances, never can think of ruining one, I know many that are that way, good friends,, I Have done it on purpose,,,,think redneck.

If you don't want to take the chance , be careful.

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On 12/18/2018 at 8:12 AM, Evan Smith said:

Your work looks real nice.

I would be careful of making decisions for the graduations based on the grain of the wood alone.

I have seen coarse grain to be tough strong and light, with lots of stiffness across the grain,( 90o perpendicular),,,and I've seen it soft and spongy. The same thing with the fine grain. You cannot tell wood properties by the look, there is no look. There are boundaries and borders,,, such as, almost invisible grain lines, or big  wide and dark hard grain, both are undesirable,, there is some beautiful looking wood that is junk.

It looks like a stripe of sapwood in the center. Do both pieces feel the same under the scraper? Was the sizzle the same all over? Could you tell with your eyes closed which side you were on? Was there an obvious difference? Sometimes sap wood can feel a bit different than the rest of the wood. It is not necessarily bad. Once you get past the sapwood in a tree ,,,the rest of the wood is 20 to 40 or more years old. My favorite tree has all the sapwood on it, No Worms! It looks exactly like your piece, I purchased a fresh tree and it took a while for the sapwood to harden up. (I'm not saying there is anything wrong with it.)

I'm just saying to watch it, feel it, flex it,,, tap it, do what it needs, not based on predetermined judgements or looks alone.

So I wondered whether to give this rant,,,or not,,, what the heck, I've ruined enough of them blindly running along allowing the rule of good knocks to educate me,          

How would you like your education, Over easy, sunny side up, or burned to a crisp. I've fried a few things, scrapped a few things trashed a few things, I don't seem to mind, I learn this way,, but some folks do not like to take any chances, never can think of ruining one, I know many that are that way, good friends,, I Have done it on purpose,,,,think redneck.

If you don't want to take the chance , be careful.

So I needed your advise and graduated until it felt right to me while I flexed and twisted it. I think it ended up around 2.5-2.6 in the bouts, and 2.7-2.8 around the Fs and at the SP. I added some cleats because I'm becoming more paranoid with my advanced years (27).

It's ready for the bass bar now. 

IMG_20190123_011146.jpg

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