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1 hour ago, Jim Bress said:

I use a tail vise an dogs all the time for planing. I don't think you'll regret adding them to the mix. 

I saved the scroll for last because it scared me the most. Turns out to be my favorite part. 

-Jim 

 

I plan the scroll first for the same reason, it scares me to death. I figure if I can't conquer that, there is no point in trying the rest.

 

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3 hours ago, Stavanger said:

Did you get any wood yet, Frank? Just curious what you ended up with.

I purchased the neck block from Old World Tone wood. I don't recall right now how much I paid, it was not the cheapest and not the best they had - $20? 

The reason I only purchase the block is there is no point buying a set if I don't make it past the scroll. I plan on doing 1 or 2 or maybe even 3 scrolls in Popular before laying knife to the Maple bock I have. I have it sitting in front me all the time, to remind me I need to get on with this :)

(I do plan on making it past the scroll,  b ut who knows, maybe I am allergic to maple :) )
 

 

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I would give you a back and top if you are interested, but shipping to USA would be almost 70usd... :blink: 
Unless you would visit Norway sometime soon and pick it up yourself... 
 

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47 minutes ago, Stavanger said:

I would give you a back and top if you are interested, but shipping to USA would be almost 70usd... :blink: 
Unless you would visit Norway sometime soon and pick it up yourself... 
 

IMG_8515.thumb.JPG.e76743b7b037e79477611aa1df70d119.JPG

I will discuss it with my wife, we would LOVE to visit Norway - which day was it that is summer there?

 

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1 hour ago, Frank Nichols said:

I will discuss it with my wife, we would LOVE to visit Norway - which day was it that is summer there?

 

Summer was saturday between 11.30 and 14.00....

But seriously, that train is gone... We had 3 days above 25deg C this year. (77 farenheit) 
And days without rain I think I can count on one or two hands.... 

"They" even invented a saying to keep us all cheerful and happy, but really its just a lie. "There is no bad weather; only bad clothing...." muhahaha 

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I thought I would move this thread here to not pollute the Pegbox area.

Just for fun - violin restoration I am using to learn.


I have been distracted from making my violin for a while - like happens, it seems even more often as you get older.

Anyway, progress on learning continues, this violin is pretty much a lost cause, so I don't mind experimenting and learning on it: Attached are a couple photos of the back plate mostly cleaned. A few adjustments to the seam edge and I will be gluing it - I have been reading for a couple days about re-gluing two piece backs, and I think I am going to glue a series of small blocks along the inside of the two edges and use them to clamp and adjust the contact alignment. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

These photo's are poor quality from my iPad again - sorry. The color of the wood is darker than I expected, a light brown or dark tan color (darker than it appears in the picture). Is that normal in maple about 70 years old, or it is more likely from the original ground?

This is the most helpful link I have found so far - any others someone knows and cares to share I would appreciate:

Andreas Hudelmayer - Hold on tight

 

 

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3 hours ago, Mike Spencer said:

You get the most control of keeping things aligned on the outside using that technique. Good luck!

Thank you for the advice! I will try that.

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Next step, the top plate is mostly clean. It was the worst of the gunk, and cleaned up fairly well. 
 

Bass bar crack, and a few others. A couple appear to have been glued before. I will have to decide if I am going to separate those and reglue them.


Looks like I will get plenty of practice out of doing this!

Also, looks like the tail piece fell and dinged the top. I think I should steam it to raise the wood back and then scrape it back level? Suggestions on that and any other approaches to getting this back into one piece?

Oh, and a couple quick measurements, I am going to profile the graduation once it is one piece, but the thinest edge next to the rib gluing shelf at the lower bout is about 1.5mm and the center by the f-holes (where the bout broke off)  is about 3.5mm.

top_inside.jpg

Top_Outside.jpg

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Anyone have a link to plate specs - like weight, density, stiffness, speed of sound, etc?

I need to get these glued back together and do some measurements but right off as they sit:

Top:  53g

Back: 105g

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The top is about as light as I'd ever want to go, and then only with stiff, low-density wood.  If it's a full size.

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9 hours ago, Don Noon said:

The top is about as light as I'd ever want to go, and then only with stiff, low-density wood.  If it's a full size.

Thanks, it is full size. 
 

 

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