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Plate Tuning & Bridge Tuning


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Hello to everyone, 

 I have questions about the violin plate tuning.

Firstly ; what is the modes ? And what is the A0, A1, B0, B1, B-1 ?

What is the tab-tone and why to use and how to find ?

What is the #2 - #5 modes ? and how to find these ?

What is chladni patterns ? How to use on violin tuning ?

What is the tuning frequencies ? 

Tuning methods ?

How can I tuning the plates ?

Finally; How can I tuning the bridge? 

I finding application examples.

This is my end of year assignment. Please help me..

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Hi Ahmedivarius,

lot of questions, no simple answers.

The best way to help you is to suggest you do a search on this forum where you can find all the answers, already discussed thoroughly before.
Anyway you will never find definitive answers, only different opinions and you will need to make your own.

Expect many hours of reading, good luck!!

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I sugest you first do a google search  and read:

"MusICA Seminar: Colin Gough - Violin acoustics: An introduction and recent developments"

After that do more Colin Gough searches on violin acoustics.  These in turn will give you many good follow on older references.  These in turn will give many other references.  These in turn will give you many other references...

Or just slip the old stuff and accept what Colin now says and save a lot of time.

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Most of this information (and I use the term loosely) can be found easily by searching.  I wrote a beginner-ish article posted here: http://jpschmidtviolins.com/Violin_Acoustics_1.pdf

I hesitate to mention platetuning.org, but if you do a search you will most likely end up there anyway at some point.  It has a tremendous pile of information and references, but "pile" is the operative word, as it appears to be unfiltered and errs on the side of including everything vs. presenting a coherent explanation of it all.

Good luck; you'll need it.

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Tuning the free plates has an advantage,,,,,,

Only in that it gives you a consistent place to start learning about  the stiffness  to weight ratio, by watching the numbers you can learn about mass and stiffness.

You want to learn to be able to retain the most stiffness with the least amount of weight possible. Watching the numbers helps to develop this relationship faster. It is a form of training wheels, or akin to a flight simulator, you learn to do it with a bit of help. After you get a handle on it you go it alone, but understand that watching the numbers, or tuning to specific notes, or patterns of notes has absolutely no direct  relationship with producing a good quality fiddle at all. It only is telling you the stiffness, of a particular piece of wood in a particular state at a given time. It all changes when it is glued together.

However, tuning to a set of numbers will make a really stiff fiddle sound much better, only because the fiddle was too stiff to begin with. And stiffness with in a certain boundary, defined by a parameter of certain numbers has a higher probability of success sound wise than stiffness too far outside of those numbers, or boundary, and the field is large, very large indeed. So by removing wood to the numbers, as you will undoubtedly will read about,,,, will make a fiddle sound better ,,,,but,, it's not magic numbers, it's stiffness with in a parameter that allows enough flexibility to function like it should.

So you can use tuning to be consistent with your stiffness, and consistent stiffness may provide a greater opportunity to produce a consistent sound, but a great fantastic sound has absolutely nothing ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,nothing,,to do with specific stiffness or weights, so it is best not to get the two confused.

You will find people that do fairly well using this method, but there are so many variables,, there is so much more,, I personally don't know any great makers that are successful doing this as their absolute method.

Trust me I have done all of MY homework.

Personally, I watch,,,( if anything, just to get a lay of the land,,),

Mode #1 free plate, A0, B-1,B0

I personally care not in the least about all the rest, we all find what works for us. Some makers love to measure B-1 and B1, I think those numbers are complete RED herrings,,,but some makers that measure them make decent fiddles, but they also know what they are doing and why, it's not the numbers, it's how the fiddle is made, that is the magic,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

The info's out there, you should go study,,

It's best to only ask a couple of questions at a time,,,,:)

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