Muswell Posted January 9, 2017 Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 I'm glad I'm not a horse. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frank Nichols Posted January 9, 2017 Report Share Posted January 9, 2017 12 hours ago, David Burgess said: Bring on your mallet and gouge, and I'll race ya. I actually tried chucking a gouge in a pneumatic impact hammer once. Didn't give any improvement in speed, and made the most horrendous noise. Can't remember whether or not Jeffrey was working there when I tried that. Must have been torture for the other guys in the shop! Thank you, I assume that means there is no real reason to not use a chisel, just that it is not any better than not using it and potentially worse. Frank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
David Burgess Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 3 hours ago, FrankNichols said: Thank you, I assume that means there is no real reason to not use a chisel, just that it is not any better than not using it and potentially worse. Frank A hammer and chisel? Decidedly worse, if one has some skill with a roughing gouge, and needs to make a living at it. I'll bet 500 bucks that I can rough out a top or back in half the time (or less) compared to someone using a hammer and chisel. And I'm perfectly willing to put that to the test at the next VSA Convention, despite being old enough to be eligible for retirement and Social Security benefits. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frank Nichols Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Oops, need to proof before pressing submit - sigh - yes, it should have read "there is no reason to not use a hammer (mallet) and gouge" just that is is probably slower than just using a gouge alone properly. Thanks, Frank Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wilgeo Posted January 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Update. Just finished the gouging, planing, and scraping of the cradle dish. Just need to finish the clamps, and pretty her up a bit. And make the swivel. Glad that part is out of the way! Fits my violin perfectly too! No rocking ANYWHERE. Super stoked for my first go in violin making! Learned a ton along the way. Thanks everyone. Will post more updates as they come. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wilgeo Posted January 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 Anyone have an opinion on what to use to glue cork to wood? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davide Sora Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 1 hour ago, Wilgeo said: Anyone have an opinion on what to use to glue cork to wood? I use a contact adhesive like Pattex or Bostik, not a very traditional glue but works perfectly and with no clamping. You only have to lightly hammer the cork during gluing to assure a perfect bond (advanced shoemaker tecnique) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wilgeo Posted January 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 24 minutes ago, Davide Sora said: I use a contact adhesive like Pattex or Bostik, not a very traditional glue but works perfectly and with no clamping. You only have to lightly hammer the cork during gluing to assure a perfect bond (advanced shoemaker tecnique) Perfect. Thank you Davide! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Frank Nichols Posted January 10, 2017 Report Share Posted January 10, 2017 I am a big fan of double sided tape in general, it holds better than most people think it will. I plan on using it for my cradle, but I have not done so yet, so I can't swear it will work. The nice thing with it is that it is easy to remove if you want to replace the cork. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Julian Cossmann Cooke Posted January 11, 2017 Report Share Posted January 11, 2017 Another gouge handle for your consideration. Second pic to follow. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Caudle Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 In my opinion the fat bit near the blade is not a good idea as it is likely to catch the work if you finish the gouge stroke at a low angle. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Julian Cossmann Cooke Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 45 minutes ago, Mark Caudle said: In my opinion the fat bit near the blade is not a good idea as it is likely to catch the work if you finish the gouge stroke at a low angle. I never have had that problem, Mark. My guess would be because of the crank in the gouge itself. It ensures that I am always pushing from a higher angle to get the gouge to bite. You may have a good point, though, with a more conventional gouge. Probably why Maitre Burgess doesn't have such a feature on his. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Mark Caudle Posted January 12, 2017 Report Share Posted January 12, 2017 Yes because the photo is straight on I hadn't realised that the gouge is cranked! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wilgeo Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 I'm on the final stretch, and looking to finish the cradle now. One final question would be, how should I finish? Any kind of top coat? Shellac, BLO, Poly? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davide Sora Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 16 hours ago, Wilgeo said: I'm on the final stretch, and looking to finish the cradle now. One final question would be, how should I finish? Any kind of top coat? Shellac, BLO, Poly? Nothing, bare wood. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wilgeo Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 1 hour ago, Davide Sora said: Nothing, bare wood. Alright then! Very easy! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
edi malinaric Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 4 hours ago, Davide Sora said: Nothing, bare wood. Hi David - I made my support out of some ply with the centre cut out (saving the "outcut" for other uses) and was going to stick some cork around the edges. I had occasion to take a pair of shoes in for repair and at the back of the shoemaker's shop I saw a whole pile of tanned hides. I thought that leather might just be kinder than cork and asked about some offcuts. We chatted a bit and I walked out some $3 poorer with a complete sheepskin hide. Works well - keeps the shavings from falling through the hole. Maybe I should take a pic of an umpopulated suppport. cheers edi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Bill Merkel Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 On 1/9/2017 at 8:30 PM, David Burgess said: half the time (or less) Looks like something tat could be whipped out wit a chain saw, whatever it is. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davide Sora Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 5 hours ago, edi malinaric said: Hi David - I made my support out of some ply with the centre cut out (saving the "outcut" for other uses) and was going to stick some cork around the edges. I had occasion to take a pair of shoes in for repair and at the back of the shoemaker's shop I saw a whole pile of tanned hides. I thought that leather might just be kinder than cork and asked about some offcuts. We chatted a bit and I walked out some $3 poorer with a complete sheepskin hide. Works well - keeps the shavings from falling through the hole. Maybe I should take a pic of an umpopulated suppport. cheers edi Leather should be fine if you deal with varnished surface, but with bare wood arching a bare wood cradle for me is better. With dark tanned hide or leather you could run the risk of contaminating and stain the bare white wood, natural leather would be probably a better choice. However, the surface is smooth, pleasantly supple and does not retain the chips, and that's fine. The same goes for varnished or treated cradle, without the advantage of the suppleness of the surface. With bare wood there is the great advantage of being able to fit the cradle to any higher or fuller arching with only a few shots of scraper. If your hide cover is glued to the cradle this work may be troublesome...... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Addie Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 I use a clean dish or tea towel on mine for varnished surfaces. Easy to wash. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
edi malinaric Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 8 hours ago, Davide Sora said: Leather should be fine if you deal with varnished surface, but with bare wood arching a bare wood cradle for me is better. With dark tanned hide or leather you could run the risk of contaminating and stain the bare white wood, natural leather would be probably a better choice. However, the surface is smooth, pleasantly supple and does not retain the chips, and that's fine. The same goes for varnished or treated cradle, without the advantage of the suppleness of the surface. With bare wood there is the great advantage of being able to fit the cradle to any higher or fuller arching with only a few shots of scraper. If your hide cover is glued to the cradle this work may be troublesome...... Hi Davide - thank you for those comments. I did monitor the dye transfer to the wood and can report that there was none. I never thought about having to modify the cradle for different archings - if it ever becomes necessary I'll just modify the "bottom" of the cradle to suit and then skin that side as well. (quick thought - "Now add some drones and a chanter to the edge of the plywood and have a ready-to use bagpipe for when times are quiet") cheers edi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Davide Sora Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 9 hours ago, edi malinaric said: Hi Davide - thank you for those comments. I did monitor the dye transfer to the wood and can report that there was none. I never thought about having to modify the cradle for different archings - if it ever becomes necessary I'll just modify the "bottom" of the cradle to suit and then skin that side as well. (quick thought - "Now add some drones and a chanter to the edge of the plywood and have a ready-to use bagpipe for when times are quiet") cheers edi I had not realized that the skin was only on the boundary edge, I thought that covered the entire cradle.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
edi malinaric Posted January 16, 2017 Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 6 hours ago, Davide Sora said: I had not realized that the skin was only on the boundary edge, I thought that covered the entire cradle.... Hi Davide - no - I used the complete hide - it covers the cutout in the middle. I'll take a picture of the front and back of the cradle and post it - tomorrow. cheers edi Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MaestronetLurker Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 I'm using this form made from hard foam insulation. It's cheap and very quick to make. I have a wooden base for it, but the easiest thing to do is glue it to a thin wooden backer and drop in some pegs so it can be used as a bench stop. I have boards on my bench that pull out like you see on some old desks for a writing surface, and I place the cradle on this board and can work all the way around 3 sides. That comes in handy when looking for the right angle to plane or scrap figured backs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Janito Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 Try this setup for mobility. PanaVise with modified screw handle to increase torque. The hefty wood block clamps securely with a bench vise. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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