Upside down plate jointer...

[David Burgess]

I agree. If the piece to be planed lies flat on the bench, it's a more repeatable and consistent operation because you don't have to balance the piece on end.

 

The majority of the pieces I start out with don't lie flat on the bench. The work and material removal, to get them to do so, in my opinion, is much more time consuming than learning to do a centerjoint without relying on that surface. 

[Urban Luthier]

The majority of the pieces I start out with don't lie flat on the bench. The work and material removal, to get them to do so...

I use to obsess about getting the plates to lie perfectly flat on the bench. This time around i roughly flattened the plates, then cut them out with with a 10 mm border. I did a bit of rough arching, then i flattened the underside and only then cut out the plates to the final outline. 

 

I have a feeling this reduces stress on the plates, but i have no way of proving it. 

[Muswell]

The majority of the pieces I start out with don't lie flat on the bench. The work and material removal, to get them to do so, in my opinion, is much more time consuming than learning to do a centerjoint without relying on that surface. 

 

Thank you for writing that, I was beginning to wonder about whether I have been doing it wrong   I have always enjoyed using the hard-earned skill of truing up boards.

[Eryri]

For what its worth, my method...

 

I'm with the upside down plane in the vice - I use a metalwork vice just gripping the central portion of the plane. Plane I use is a Bailey jointer, and the sole has been trued. The blade needs to be shaving sharp and straight across, without even a hint of fingernail curvature.

 

Plane the two sides at once, then work on each separately. Look through the crack with a strong light source on the other side, also try twisting to see if the jointed pieces have high middles or high ends. Drawing the piece over the plane blade set very fine, press that bit harder where you think its high. When you think you're close, to test the quality of the joint, put one side in the metalwork vice joint upwards, and just allow the upper piece to rest there with gravity - inspect the joint from all angles - if its a good meeting, no gaps/rocking anywhere with just gravity, it'll make a good rub joint. If not try to work out which side (or both) is substandard and back to the plane until it's satisfactory.

 

Making the rub joint, don't heat the joint as some advise - it'll warp enough to mess up all your good work - and don't clamp your lower piece in a conventional wood workers vice with a long area of contact or the same will happen. The metalwork vice with its short area of contact leaves the wood just where it is and the rub joint has every chance of being successful.