Sacha Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 Hi everyone! I am a newbie playing violin and was hoping you could help me out picking my first violin! I have practiced for about 3 months now on a beginner violin I borrowed. Now I know for sure I want to continue learning. My budget is 300€. The options I have found: Alfred Stingl by Höfner AS-180-V 4/4 Violin Outfit 260€ Karl Höfner SE II Violin Set 4/4 322€ Stentor SR1500 Violin Student II 4/4 192€ Stentor SR1542 Violin Graduate 4/4 240€ Stagg VN-4/4 HG Violin Set 229€ Artino VN-135 Violin Set 4/4 215€ They all come with a case and bow. I have read a lot about each one and they all sound good on paper.. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alma Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 I would never buy shoes without trying them on first--same holds for violins. Maybe there is a good violin shop near you, where you can rent and your rental payment will apply to any instrument you later decide to buy there. Violin shopping has a long learning curve; keep playing a loaner or rental, and learning about how to choose an instrument--all the knowledge and experience you gather will certainly point you to a better first choice six months from now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctanzio Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 The two most common problems with beginner violins are: 1. Sticky pegs, 2. Nasty wolf or fuzzy tone somewhere on the G string in first position. Either of these problems can ruin your enjoyment of learning the violin. So you want to select a violin that tunes "easily" (problem #1) and has clean sounding notes on all strings with all fingers from first position (problem #2). The tone of the violin can be adjusted by changing strings in the 30 to 60 euro per set range. But expect modest priced violins to have a core tone that sounds shrill or thin. As your bow arm improves and you add a little bit of vibrato, these things can sound pretty good. Occasionally you will find a highly recommended internet store that will allow returns if you are not happy. But if there are violin shops nearby, you might make out better by trying their violins yourself or have a player come with you. Again, make sure it is easy to tune and has no nasty sound problems while playing in first position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Stross Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 Hi everyone! I am a newbie playing violin and was hoping you could help me out picking my first violin! I have practiced for about 3 months now on a beginner violin I borrowed. Now I know for sure I want to continue learning. My budget is 300€. The options I have found: Alfred Stingl by Höfner AS-180-V 4/4 Violin Outfit 260€ Karl Höfner SE II Violin Set 4/4 322€ Stentor SR1500 Violin Student II 4/4 192€ Stentor SR1542 Violin Graduate 4/4 240€ Stagg VN-4/4 HG Violin Set 229€ Artino VN-135 Violin Set 4/4 215€ They all come with a case and bow. I have read a lot about each one and they all sound good on paper.. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! I suggest you familiarize yourself with what is called "violin setup" - it matters in the long term. You can go to violinmag.com and read the setup chapter. Actually, read everything - will be an afternoon well spent. You need a violin which is properly constructed and properly set up. This is done by numbers and by an expert. The neck must be the right shape and not crooked, the fingerboard has a certain very specific profile, so is the nut, bridge, saddle etc. The sound post inside it must fit well and push the plates with the right tension. In over 100 new violins I bought, I have never seen these things happening all together though the better Sadner violins weren't that far off. All these things affect greatly the playability of the violin, the way it feels and reacts to your input, the effort you make to play , the clarity of the pitch, etc. Some of these things can be fixed later but some can't be fixed economically in your price range. The translation of all these is that you should buy a specific violin from a reputable violin shop. Then you should buy a decent CODA bow. The case is pretty irrelevant at this stage - you'll find one somewhere. The most common problems with what seems to be your price range in my experience are crooked necks, misshaped and unseasoned fingerboards ( they will bend ! ) and horrible bridges and posts. I replace the fingerboards, bridges and posts and throw away the violins with badly crooked necks because I am not competent enough to fix that. I use Piranito strings on all of them because they are responsive, thin and last forever and a bit. And stay in tune. I don't find pegs such an issue for the past few years - I suspect the factories pay more attention there nowadays. Final advice : find a place which rents violins and rent one. If you decided on buying, buy one of their rentals. Do not fret about minor cracks , dings etc. Save money and buy a good and predictable bow. A Coda bow. I noticed on the latest "student violins" I bought that the nut is not placed in the right spot - not forward enough and, that the usual distance between the heel of the neck and the plate is too big. The 2nd one is an easy fix with a knife, a scraper and some furniture varnish but the 1st one is very irritating for a player in 1st position and the only cheap fix is to shorten the fingerboard. Here's a super informative site where real experts show how things are done : https://trianglestrings.com/techniques/ Your beginner's violin needs not be a Strad but shouldn't need exorcism to get it going either. Best of luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rue Posted June 10, 2016 Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 If you've been playing...and like it...and want to keep learning, I'd really suggest you don't get any of those on your list. I think you will be frustrated by them very quickly. Instead, keep saving and try and buy at least one, preferably two, levels above those. Or, ask around at music stores, Suzuki programs, etc., where people are selling used instruments. You can get a better instrument for 300 pounds used, than new. By that I mean if someone is upgrading, you can buy their older instrument - that they may have bought brand new for 600 pounds 4-5 years ago, for 300 pounds. A new, used instrument in that price range, is like any other used object. They do not appreciate in value. Just make sure it's a violin that has been looked after. You will likely need new strings and get the bow rehaired regardless. Do not buy off the want ads, unless you know the person selling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted June 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2016 Thanks everyone for your advise. Unfortunately every shop I have been to only have the cheapest violins available, I could order a better one, but that will be without trying. I can't keep the loaner I have been using either. The website I trust and would allow me to return the violin if necessary. I like the idea of getting a second hand one, and have been searching online. I have found a Yamaha V7SG second hand for 350€ (original prices around 700€). http://www.thomann.de/gb/yamaha_v7_sg_44_violine_44.htm?ref=search_rslt_yamaha+V7_111068_0 Will continue to search with your advise in mind. I live in Spain btw. Ill let you know when I have found my violin Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alma Posted June 11, 2016 Report Share Posted June 11, 2016 I am told there are good instrument shops in the Opera district in Madrid; can you make a trip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle duke Posted June 11, 2016 Report Share Posted June 11, 2016 The Yamaha used does sound like a safer bet. Of the others the Artino or the Stentor 1542 look the best but one is not described as viewed and the Artino bridge isn't set right though it appears to be cut right. Karl Hofner se II would be a 3rd choice but the bridge is too thick. On a hunch I bet they're all underpowered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicolas Temino Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 I am told there are good instrument shops in the Opera district in Madrid; can you make a trip? There were..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sacha Posted June 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 Madrid is a 5 hour drive so that is a bit much. I've been looking at several second hand violins and some are only an hour drive so I could try these first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~ Ben Conover Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 300 Euro ? You get what you pay for....at that price. Buy direct from a supplier or off ebay, shops take 50%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rue Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 I don't think I'd do that Ben, not for a beginner. Just too risky/frustrating and you have no support whatsoever. At least if you buy 2nd hand you can see it first, and say no if it's not what you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alma Posted June 12, 2016 Report Share Posted June 12, 2016 As a beginner. I did not try nearly enough instruments before making my (first) final choice; it really is helpful to play as many different instruents as one can to get a feel for their playability, power and tone differences. What I did do was have a luthier check out the instrument I was interested in buying, to be sure there were no expensive repairs or changes needed. This is all time-consuming, but it definitely will pay off in the long run to shop extensively and vet your final choice with a luthier--even if it means you don't get a violin as soon as you would like. As for shops taking 50%, that is not the case with used instruments on consignment; it is possible to get a better deal on a used instrument if the owner wants to sell quickly, so be prepared to bargain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stadiravius Posted June 14, 2016 Report Share Posted June 14, 2016 Hi everyone! I am a newbie playing violin and was hoping you could help me out picking my first violin! I have practiced for about 3 months now on a beginner violin I borrowed. Now I know for sure I want to continue learning. My budget is 300€. The options I have found: Alfred Stingl by Höfner AS-180-V 4/4 Violin Outfit 260€ Karl Höfner SE II Violin Set 4/4 322€ Stentor SR1500 Violin Student II 4/4 192€ Stentor SR1542 Violin Graduate 4/4 240€ Stagg VN-4/4 HG Violin Set 229€ Artino VN-135 Violin Set 4/4 215€ They all come with a case and bow. I have read a lot about each one and they all sound good on paper.. Any advise would be greatly appreciated! Stentors are fun violins, I started about 6 months ago and a friend turned me on to them, was pretty impressed with the amount of tone you get for those prices, the Yamaha v5 and v7 were also very good, the v7 can be had used for around 400 euros and here is the thing ... you'll get 400 when you resell it to move on to something better, but then again ... I know a student 6 years into his learning and he's still using his v7. Eastman is a brand not too many people talk about but man do they make cool stuff, my teacher uses one for live play and the tone is stellar. I originally went for a few eBay chinese chinese violins and they blew my socks off, reviews fully justified and holy hell do you get a lot of fiddle for your money on these Strad copies ( mine was an Amati copy). I currently play on an old German violin and an american Maggini copy from the 1960s, I thoroughly enjoy them and got them pretty cheap, I sold my chinese violins as I was getting offered more than I paid for them. I might revisit them at some point as I'm not far enough along in this process to really know the difference but tone is tone and the older violins I play right now are superior to the chinese in projection and feel ( I hate heavy varnish) My suggestion, go with the Yamaha ... they are stellar and easily resellable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.