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Edward Byler

Edward Byler's Bench

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It's evident I'd rather build then varnish though now it's time I spend a few months doing mostly that . It's not that I don't enjoy varnishing it's just that so much can go wrong and I really want to do more than straight varnish ( sorry all of you opposed to antiquing :) ). I've just dinged up stuff on straight varnished stuff that would have only brought character to a mildly antiqued instrument and also touch-up after putting on the fingerboard is hard to get right . I'm considering doing the ground coat and then putting on the fingerboard before finishing the varnish. I also threw in some photos of my shop and a couple earlier varnished ones .

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On my way to removing all the varnish from the viola and violin I messed around with some shading/removing in practice for when I reapply the varnish and attempt to antique them. I put a bit of lamp oil in my varnish to extend drying and then noticed that it is not kerosene but paraffin :( so I'll start over .post-76408-0-24824300-1464371148_thumb.jpegpost-76408-0-95331900-1464371200_thumb.jpegpost-76408-0-26688400-1464371233_thumb.jpegpost-76408-0-90764200-1464371258_thumb.jpegpost-76408-0-15755400-1464371287_thumb.jpegpost-76408-0-06289600-1464371330_thumb.jpeg

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Some photos of an earlier violin I built that I revarnished . I'm messing around with antiquing a couple others but since the wood was not antiqued much before I varnished this one I decided to just do some shading . What are your thoughts on lightened edgework and mild added dirt ? Does it look like a cheap production quality job ? This is some of my cooked varnish with a bit of zinc rosinate that I made .

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It does not look like a cheap production quality job.  

 

What's up with what appears to be a high overstand?  Hope I'm wrong about that.  What is the height of the outer pegbox between the d and e pegs?  Looks kinda tall.

 

  The edgework and belly finish, in addition to the fittings and strings, appear to make the violin ready for business.  It looks real good.

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Thank you uncle duke for your input! My phone distorts the photo but I think my Plowden scroll does exaggerate the pegbox shape . The over stand is 7 mm which is a little over the 6.5 mm I'd prefer. The scroll dimension between d and e is 22 mm. Here's a photo less distorted .

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Finally getting close on this 15-1/2 viola. I built it over a year ago and finally have it varnished and strung up . I need to learn how to color the boxwood pegs and touch up here and there yet . I got a tracing of the mold from a student of Zorans workshop in Tucson a couple years ago but I didn't have anything to go by for the scroll or F-holes and I'll not try winging it like this again. I welcome your criticism or advice

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Ive finally finished this top that I’ve been carving the last several days but I think I’m going to reject it and build another .I’ve never made a single piece top before and maybe that’s not the problem but it is too heavy to have such a low and weak mode 5 . It is averaging 2.9 mm thick . Maybe the wild F-holes that I loved doing limbered the plate up too much . 71 grams with bass bar . Mode 5 is 355. I mistakenly put the wide grain on the treble side .

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I like every one of the fiddles you have posted so far Edward!  I do hope we can meet in Weiser this year and chat. Your fiddles look fantastic to me!!

And I do hope you bring a few fiddles with you!!....: )

I'll have the Sultana for you to try...

 

 

 

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15 hours ago, Edward Byler said:

It is averaging 2.9 mm thick . Maybe the wild F-holes that I loved doing limbered the plate up too much . 71 grams with bass bar . Mode 5 is 155.

That cant possibly be mode 5.  It's far more likely mode 2.  (another example of tap tones leading astray?)

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Thanks Don, I rechecked because I agree it is abnormal . I also agree that religiously following mode numbers is misleading and that’s why the graduations and weight play in equally important . If the weight was 61 g and thickness 2.7mm I’d like it but I’ve not found it to work well to have these three not correlate better . I like using the tone generator with tea leaves because it is clearer which mode it is than looking at a computer screen showing peaks . The photo of frequency is a screen capture on my iPhone where I have the tuning app. This plate is clearly ringing lower when tapped compared to other free plates that have mode 5 at 372 .

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It looks like we have the same phone app.  If you click back to chromatic tuning (instead of tone generator), then click the gear icon in the bottom right corner you can change the tuning mode to FFT mode.  When holding the plate at the M5 node and tapping you can see the M5 spike clearly especially with multiple taps.  A long piece of sound post stock makes for a loud tap that the phone will easily pick up.  Just to double check your tone generator.

Does the plate feel weak in the hand?  Seems a shame to trash a completed plate without testing it first.

-Jim

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I just now saw your post Jim . Yes I’ve used the other app features too and love it. The tea leaves clarify better which mode is ringing by its shape . The plate doesn’t really feel weak but with its weight and lack of response when tapping it’s not what I’m used to 

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