BigFryMan Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Ok, so I'm cutting the slots for the purfling on my second violin and I wasn't happy with the amount of glue seep-age I got on my first. Seemed to make the varnish not want to stick to the edges. What technique do you use to glue purfling into its slot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DGV Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Look up the Hargrave method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davide Sora Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XpeAhYf0f0 Despite the amount of glue that I use I never had problems with varnish that does not stick to the edges or glue ghost in the channel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnCockburn Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XpeAhYf0f0 Despite the amount of glue that I use I never had problems with varnish that does not stick to the edges or glue ghost in the channel. me neither. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lafont Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Davide, in your video series (which is really great), I miss the point at which you close the holes for the positioning pins on the back. I guess it`s after cutting the fluting channel around the edge? Don't you use the positioning pins to glue the back to the ribs? I'm also asking because on my #1 I have just finished the purfling channel on a flat platform and the holes for the positioning pins are a little bit wider than the purfling channel so I guess I have to fill them before putting the purfling in. Any suggestions? Arching hasn't been done yet except very rough arching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davide Sora Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Davide, in your video series (which is really great), I miss the point at which you close the holes for the positioning pins on the back. I guess it`s after cutting the fluting channel around the edge? Don't you use the positioning pins to glue the back to the ribs? I'm also asking because on my #1 I have just finished the purfling channel on a flat platform and the holes for the positioning pins are a little bit wider than the purfling channel so I guess I have to fill them before putting the purfling in. Any suggestions? Arching hasn't been done yet except very rough arching. I close the holes for the pins in the back after cutting the fluting channel and before marking and cutting the purfling channel. I don't need them for glue the back, I find easy to position the free ribs on the back because of minimal distortion and because I like the "cremonese look" of partially hided pins Different matter for the top, where I use the positioning pins for gluing (left just inside the purfling that will not cover them), useful because of the distortion induced in the ribs outline by the glued back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catnip Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Lafont, You can use 1/2 hole on the back for positioning (ie 2 mm deep hole). The top doesn't matter because the mortice and neck hide the top hole and the saddle and tailpiece will cover the bottom hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael_Molnar Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 FWIW, I have great success using Davide's procedure with a pipette to dispense glue into the slot. On eBay you can find cheapo pipettes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berl Mendenhall Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 To keep the spillage to a minimum I use a needle and syringe. Just twist the needle off and stick the syringe down in the glue suck it up and screw the needle back on and your ready to go. It's much faster than dabbing glue in the groove and not nearly as messy. Very similar to Davide and Michael's method. They last a long time if you rinse them out good with hot water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncle duke Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 A basketball/football air needle threaded on the syringe worked well for me. Less mess. Have not tried the Hargrave method yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidwchandler Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 I get large guage needle/syringe at a local farmer/livestock supply store, grind the tip down a bit, keep it in hot water bath in which my glue is heated. A good wipe down with real hot water on a paper towel after pushing the purfling into the groove, swells the wood and purfling and expands to fill any small variations in the width of the groove. A little extra time cutting the groove pays off in the refinement, i.e. no need for any kind of fill. (Yeah, that goes without saying, doesn't it!). I make my groove tight enough, that I need to campher the bottom edges of the purfling just a bit so it slides in more easily, however if it doesn't fit dry, it won't when wet. A tip for the novice -- keep your bench nice and clean so when you accidentally chip out a piece of the edge, you can find it again (lessons learned the hard way). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berl Mendenhall Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 I am bored this morning so I thought I'd post a couple pictures of my gluing process. Here I'm using a large needle and syringe I bought from Stewart- McDonald. Sense then I've started using a small needle and syringe, like the kind you get at the drug store. They are super cheep. I do think this method is less mess than using a stick or brush. Anyway just a couple pictures. I'm putting off going out and doing my Sunday morning cleaning of the shop. I do this (procrastinate) when it's time to make and fit linings too. That's the only job I really don't enjoy for some crazy reason. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~ Ben Conover Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 I use a farmer's syringe without the needle, keeping it warm in the glue jar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berl Mendenhall Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Yes Ben, it's easy just to plop it in the glue water and keep it nice and hot. Even the small syringes hold enough glue to do a whole job. Okay I give up. I've put this off as long as I can. I'm off to clean the shop up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Yacey Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Lee Valley sells these nice little accordion-bellow glue bottles that will accept a syringe type needle. I fine that these allow better control in metering out the glue; the syringes sometimes hang fire and then dump a pool of glue all at once if you're not careful on the plunger. http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=20004&cat=1,110,42967&ap=1 In use, I keep them in the water bath of the glue pot, keeping the glue at temperature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigFryMan Posted February 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2016 Thanks for all the tips guys! A friend of mine is a dentist and gave me a bunch of different syringes to choose from and that made the job a lot easier. I ended up syringing the glue into the slot, push the purfling in and the quickly wipe down the excess that spilt out of the slot. Afterwards I used the syringe to drop boiling hot water onto the purfling to cause it to swell to fill any mistakes. I took much more time and care cutting the purfling slot this time and I think that was the factor that made all the difference in getting the purfling in nicely. Now if only I could do a perfect bee sting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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