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Learning basic setup with my 14" viola


fiddleinparis

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Hi,

 

I play violin for 2 years and my two daughters play violin as well (1/4 and 3/4 size).  Since we all play violins, I thought it'd be fun to learn to do some basic setup work.  I had my previous violin adjusted a few times by luthiers and it was really interesting to hear the improvements that were made.  I have an inexpensive 14" viola that I can use for practice.  I don't play it often and it was cheap (Cecilio CVA-500 from Amazon) so if I mess it up, it's not a big loss.  I also have my previous violin that I was going to sell, but if I can learn to customize a bridge for it, that would be very interesting too and could help with reselling it, or if I can correct some of its issues it could be interesting for my daughter.

 

I received the StewMac violin setup DVD for Christmas and I really enjoyed it, which increased my desire to try some things myself. 

 

The things I'd like to do to my viola are:

  • Make a new bridge
  • Adjust soundpost
  • Fit the pegs - I broke one and had a luthier replace it, the others need to be redone too.
  • Replace the tailpiece with a Whittner with built-in fine tuners (or a tailpiece without fine tuners, I don't have fine tuners on my violin so if the viola pegs are fit properly I don't think I'll need fine tuners on the viola).

I've done a lot of googling on the net and searching in these forums and I've learned a lot.  But one question I have for which  I haven't been able to find an answer is whether a 14" viola would require different parts than a violin?  I got the viola in 14" because I still have intonation issues on my violin and I didn't want to be distracted by a larger size viola.  So the viola is similar in size to a violin but it's a little bigger and a little taller. 

 

When I buy bridge blanks, can I use violin bridge blanks?  The bridge that is on it looks similar in size to a violin bridge but it is thicker.  I don't know if it needs to be thicker or if it just wasn't fitted properly.  Well for the price I'm sure it wasn't customized very well. ;)  I also have the same question for the tailpiece, can I use a violin tailpiece?

 

While searching the forums I found someone recommended a pack of 100 bridges from ebay to practice on.  So if those will work for the 14" viola I'd like to get them.  Here's the link (I hope it's ok to post these, if not the links can be removed):

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-4-100-pcs-violin-bridges-fine-maple-laser-precise-/201134962205?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ed493f61d

 

I wrote to the seller and asked what tools he recommends for the setup work I intend to do and he recommended the following in addition to the bridges:

 

And I was also planning on getting:

 

I live in France and his prices seem to be very good compared to what I've found in France.

 

My questions are: 

 

  • Can I use 4/4 violin parts for the 14" viola?
  • Are there any books or DVDs that would help me to learn the setup items I'd like to do?  I know there are a lot of violin books about making violins but for now I just want to focus on the setup.
  • Do you recommend the tools I listed above?  Would you recommend any better alternatives?

Thank you very much for reading and I look forward to getting some feedback and sharing my progress in this adventure.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Have fun learning. I think that you should be able to use violin parts for your 14" viola.I don't think that you'll need 100 bridges for practicing. you'll end up with 80 or so left over. As for the tools- The kinfe that was recommented doesn't say wht size it is, but it looks too big and long to me. I use two knives for bridges. One like this http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/156382/18-Blue-Steel-Western-Pattern-Woodworking-Knife-%28Kiridashi-Kogatana%29.aspx for fine work on the inside of the bridge, and a similar one about 20mm wide for cutting/fitting the feet. The plane that was suggested looks useless for bridge work, but you need one with a blade about 25-30mm wide for planing the face of the bridge. You also need a dental mirror for checking soundpost fit, and something to lifht the inside of the violin for the same task. A bridge jack is also very useful for doing the final fitting of the top of the bridge.

A couple of other real necessities are: A good book with all the necessary measurements (Stroebel's Useful Measurements book), and most important is a good sharpening system, such as a set of waterstones. All the cutting tools need to be kept razor sharp.

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I have these planes: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-BRASS-ROSEWOOD-MICRO-PLANES-LUTHIER-MODELS-WOOD-CARVING-TOOLS-MAN-GIFTS-/391084149175 . Very useful for thinning the bridge (ordinary one) and smoothing the fingerboard (scrapper plane). What the "nose plane" is intended for, I haven't discovered yet :) For tailpieces and bridges, maybe you should look what IVC (https://www.internationalviolin.com/) have to offer.

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I have done a violin-to-viola conversion for my daughter.  I used everything from the violin.  One thing you might want to check is if the bridge is high enough.  The bridge was a bit high for the violin set up but just perfect as a viola.  There is no need for a thicker bridge unless you want to alter the sound.

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"I have these planes: http://www.ebay.com/...S-/391084149175 . Very useful for thinning the bridge (ordinary one) and smoothing the fingerboard (scrapper plane). What the "nose plane" is intended for, I haven't discovered yet"

 

I have a set of those, and have yet to find a good use for them . The blades are really too thin to give good stable cutting.

 

Something like this is more like what I had in mind for doing bridge surfaces. http://www.amazon.com/Kunz-Pocket-Plane-Raised-Handle/dp/B000CD3MJG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426524814&sr=8-1&keywords=palm+plane

 

I wouldn't use anything narrower.

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@FiddleDoug, I set the mentioned plane to cut almost nothing (the thickness of the aluminium foil in my case) and this is the only way to use it, according to my experience. I do not use any bridge holder, just hold the bridge in my hand, and I've found this small one easier to use than my Stanley 102. If it is set as I said, it is quite capable to cut from side to side of the bridge smoothly and continuously. The blade is rather soft, but the sharpening is easy. Just my experience.

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